T350 mount in '60 suburban

[MASTERBrian]

I dropped the motor and tranny in this past weekend. I have yet to tighten the bolts to spec, but I have a lingering question regarding the tranny mount.

It seems when I removed it a fairly thick, maybe 1/4" washer was on between the cross member and the mount. Should that be there? If not, what does it hurt, if so what does it help? Driveline geometry? If so how do you determine if it's correct or not? I still need to measure to insure the drive shaft is correct length.

Next, there was a washer welded on the bottom side of the cross member to the cross member, when installing the motor/trans I'd got knocked loose and fell off. I'm sure it wss there to hold the trans centered in the cross member, do I need to weld that back in place or is bolting everything down going to suffice? I was debating leaving it un-welded, but started wondering if the torque of motor might shift the tranny side to side if it isn't. I don't have a lift and just a wire feed welder, so it might be tricky without dropping the mount. Other thought is I have to take truck to trans guy once running so he can recheck his trans, if ok until then I could see if he'll tack it in place.

Suggestions?

[6768chevylover]

Is it a stock cross member? I would check the drive angle with an angle finder. you can buy one at Lowes, Depot or prolly any hardware store. Find a flat spot on tranny and check angle. It should be around 3 degrees I believe on level ground..If its not that's prolly what the spacer was for in between the mount and cross member.. Then again that's if you are running stock suspension.

[MASTERBrian]

I have an angle finder, but I have a few questions on this.

First, my drive has a slope, so do I measure this and add? ie, if drive is 3°, do I go 6°?
Second, how does lowering suspension play into this?
Third, my truck is currently on Jack stands as I have the wheels off as I'm awaiting my new spindles. I can still put wheels back on if need be.

Looks to be stock cross bar and currently stock suspension Until I lower her.

[jweb]

If your transmission mount is similar to an Energy Suspension. The 1/4" thick piece is a preload plate not a spacer. Here's a photo from their website
http://imagesrv.catalograck.com/imgVD/ENE/17112.pdf

[MASTERBrian]

I don't have the energy suspension you're mount, I'm pretty certain just a standard single bolt rubber style mount.

I'm attaching a picture of the cross brace, but it's hard to see, so hopefully the diagram makes sense. The red is what appears to be factory cut out in trans brace, the blue represents about a 1/4" thick about 3" diameter round flat washer that was tack welded to the bottom of the brace. I'm sure it was there to hold the mount from shifting side to side. Is a good torque on nut enough to do that or should I re weld that?

On top of this area, sandwiched between rubber mount and cross member was another 1/4" think round washer.

[Captainfab]

The trans crossmember you have does appear to be an original. All that should be in that area are 2 slotted holes where the bolts for the trans mount would be. It looks/sounds as though some of that area is either broken out or has been cut out for some reason. As for a spacer of any sort, that may have been there to get the trans output shaft at the same angle as the pinion angle.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The trans crossmember you have does appear to be an original. All that should be in that area are 2 slotted holes where the bolts for the trans mount would be. It looks/sounds as though some of that area is either broken out or has been cut out for some reason. As for a spacer of any sort, that may have been there to get the trans output shaft at the same angle as the pinion angle.

I haven't tightened the bolt yet, so I will try to get a pic of it without the washer/nut and post a pic. Do the the powerglide(s) have two mounting points? Being as the T350 (at least with this mount) only has one, it's possible they notched the area between these out and to enable a single mounting bolt. I'll likely see about getting the bottom nut re-welded as I'm certain it would be better if the trans can't shift in the mount location. Maybe I could even one up that and make a template to cut a piece of metal that would fit into that area, think inlay metal back into crossmember! That would at least buy me some time to get it welded and be a better fix overall.

I guess I need to read up on pinion angles and such or I'll just pay the transmission guy to re-check it when I take it to him for the check up after I have everything running probably easier for him to weld the washer or the insert in than I. All I have is a small mig, which will do the job, but my welding skills are not real great, especially laying on back under a car and pulling the cross member might prove frustrating!

[Captainfab]

The earlier powerglide, TH350, TH400 and car manual trans all used a mount with 2 bolts thru the crossmember. I don't remember just what year the single bolt mount was introduced.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

The earlier powerglide, TH350, TH400 and car manual trans all used a mount with 2 bolts thru the crossmember. I don't remember just what year the single bolt mount was introduced.

I've been meaning to check the year of the trans, but didn't find where they were marked until after it was reinstalled. I'll look this weekend, it's obviously single bolt mount.

[Captainfab]

As far as I know the mounting bolt pattern on the trans is the same. Just because that trans has a single bolt mount doesn't mean you can't change it.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

As far as I know the mounting bolt pattern on the trans is the same. Just because that trans has a single bolt mount doesn't mean you can't change it.

I wondered about that, but considering the center is possibly cut is it worth changing them out at this point or do I just weld the washer back on?

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

I guess I need to read up on pinion angles and such or I'll just pay the transmission guy to re-check it when I take it to him for the check up after I have everything running probably easier for him to weld the washer or the insert in than I.

never hurts to educate yourself, for a little light reading..
my favorite:
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

and here's another
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cata..._problems.html

you'll need to get everything (engine-trans and driveshaft) back together first, even if just temporary, put the truck on the ground so that the suspension is loaded and check the engine angle,
the driveshaft angle, and the pinion angle.

if you can't get under the vehicle without jackstands (most likely ), you can get a reference frame angle with the truck on the ground, then jack the truck up and put on jackstands with the rear stands under the rear axle and the front stands safely positioned. you can try to match the reference frame angle you measured prior to setting up on the stands or just make sure you factor the difference between the new angle (on stands) vrs the one you did prior into all your other measurements . it's really not as confusing as all the
words make it sound. same concept as adjusting for the driveway slope you were talking about earlier