'00 2.2 Alternator R&R?

[John Gilbert]

I'm getting ready to remove and replace the alternator on my '00 S-10, At 68,000-miles the original one took a dump. I don't like rebuilt stuff, so I asked a neighbor that does a lot of Chevy stuff what he uses. He said the new ones at 'O Reilly Auto Parts have worked good for him, so I checked it out. For a little under a $150.00 I got a new 100-amp alternator that's made in Mexico (that's where the good ones come from, right?) and has a lifetime guarantee.

As a rule, I think Powermaster makes the best stuff around, but every once in a while I like to see what else is out there. Seeing as how the Delphi only made it 68,000 miles, I know they're junk (are they made in Mexico?).

Wow, I guess I should make this long story short, and ask how any one of you might have gone about digging the alternator out of there? My guess is to pull the air box and maybe the top radiator hose will let it out the top? Maybe it will drop out the bottom easier... Who knows?

I appreciate any, and all clues, thank you.

[gchemist]

I have better luck rebuilding them. Try finding a local shop. I have all mine rebuilt. New bearings are cheap. A local shop will only replace what it needs. I would try that option first. They can even upgrade the output amps too. The alternator should be easy to take off. A common problem on alternators is bad grounds.

[John Gilbert]

Thanks for the reply. I already bought the replacement, so I'm going to go ahead and install it. But the core looks too good just to turn back in, so some time later I'll blow it apart and see what things look like. The charging problem started out intermittent so I suspect the internal regulator.

The alternator is pretty hidden on a 2.2. I suspected it was some kind of dinky Jap made Nippon-Denso, but it turned out to be a Delco type 100-amp one wire.

I was hoping someone had tackled one on a 2.2 and knew the easiest way to access, top or bottom? I'm going to go ahead and install a new fan clutch, so I'll go at it from the top.

I'm also going to change the sparkplugs and install some Davis hot coils. Next is a Magnaflow cat, and muffler.

Thanks again

[68C15]

why the hot coils? are you running 14:1 compression? 4 psi or more of boost? winding above 7000RPM? otherwise you are wasting time and money along with possibly damaging the ignitor and/or ECM. take it from a guy who knows and understands automotive electronics and powertrain management.

I would find out why the OE alt. crapped out. a battery will take an alt. and vice versa.

[John Gilbert]

Originally Posted by 68C15

why the hot coils? are you running 14:1 compression? 4 psi or more of boost? winding above 7000RPM? otherwise you are wasting time and money along with possibly damaging the ignitor and/or ECM. take it from a guy who knows and understands automotive electronics and powertrain management.

I would find out why the OE alt. crapped out. a battery will take an alt. and vice versa.

Thanks, I appreciate your concern for my wallet, but I make my living as a tech editor, and I enjoy learning some things firsthand. While I was the editor of Custom Classic Trucks, my motto was "we make the mistakes, so that our readers don't have to."

7000RPM, really? Sure, I'll wind the little bugger up that far if it's willing to rev that high. Back in the days when I was the editor of Tailgate magazine, we almost doubled the horsepower at the rear wheels with NOS... that was fun.

Addressing the alternator, I've got an idea that the internal voltage regulator packed it in. The voltmeter dropped intermittently for weeks until one night the alternator packed it in completely, and the truck came home on a flatbed. By the way the Auto Club is really good about sending a flatbed if you tell them your truck is lowered. Sometime I'll get around to cracking open the OE alternator, but in the meantime I'll try this Mexican made unit from O'Reilly's. It can't be any worse that the one that came on the truck.... can it?

And thanks again, I really do appreciate you taking the time to reply.