Vanschoyck MetalWorks & Artistry's 67 c10

[HO455]

Great work. I didn't think anyone under 40 knew what 6011 was let alone how to use it.
Welcome aboard

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by Bennett68C10

Nice build, love what you've done so far.

Thanks so much! That truck in your display pic is SICK! Actually, I love all the trucks here! I love this place!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by HO455

Great work. I didn't think anyone under 40 knew what 6011 was let alone how to use it.
Welcome aboard

Thank you very much brother! Like I said I'm still learning, I've only been welding a little over a year but I started with what they say is the hardest and most old fashioned process, arc welding! In my class I took everyone complained about running 6010/6011 especially overhead and vertical so being the guy who loves to do things people say you can't, I of course picked that electrode to focus on! After using these rods I won't use anything else! Thanks so much for the kinds words!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Got started on the front frame horns today guys! And BOY did it go rough lol. First I measured the Z and realized I had actually done a 3-1/4" Z, no big deal! So I cut the horns off and got them in place and tacked them, looked good so I ran a bead on the inside, cut through the front side until I found my weld and welded it up (to insure 100% penetration.) measured again and low and behold one side was 1/4" off! Dang! Had to cut it back off and re-do that! Next I made the gussets for the bottom and plates for the top. Seemed like I had the worst time getting in a decent position but I finally managed to get those pieces in. About this time I decided I'd had enough and was gonna call it a night because it's getting pretty cold! I let the truck down off the jack and decided to check and see how low the front bumper was gonna be! Put on bolt in and WTH?!?! The other side was about 1/2" off!!!!! Rookie mistake! Didn't put a cross brace on the pieces before I cut them off!!! I got my small propane torch and heated as much as I could and pushed with my legs until I bent the horn out enough to thread the other bolt in. At this time I was so stressed out I started 2nd guessing myself!!! Maybe my welds will fail, nothing is gonna line up, etc etc. then it dawned on me, a good weld is suppose to bend, not crack or break so this was actually a great sign!!! Lesson learned!!! Tomorrow I'm going to try to cut, fit, and weld up those bottom plates, the whole point of this long post is maybe someone can learn from my mistakes!!! Always brace, always measure BEFORE you run a full bead!!! At the end of the day, it's just metal, with enough heat, grinding, cutting, welding, it'll go where you want it to go! Will def get some pics for you guys tomorrow!

[Dustmaker65]

Originally Posted by HO455

Great work. I didn't think anyone under 40 knew what 6011 was let alone how to use it.
Welcome aboard

LOL...was thinking the same. Burnt a lot of 6011 and 6013 rods back in the day. Then came the great "JET" rod, 7018!

So who still stick welds???

[HO455]

Well don't give up on the rest. 7018 is a nice rod, a little more difficult on verticals and overhead, but comes out real pretty and if your setup is right it almost chips it's own slag. It won't burn through rust like 6011 will so good prep or new steel is important. Keep up the good work.
. I raise my barley pop and salute you and your skills.

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by HO455

Well don't give up on the rest. 7018 is a nice rod, a little more difficult on verticals and overhead, but comes out real pretty and if your setup is right it almost chips it's own slag. It won't burn through rust like 6011 will so good prep or new steel is important. Keep up the good work.
. I raise my barley pop and salute you and your skills.

Yeah I can run 7018 vertical and overhead as well! Had to pass those tests in my classes as well I just prefer the 6010/6011 because of less joint prep and they freeze so fast I can fill huge gaps with them! Thanks for all the support and advice guys!!!

Here's a pic of that slag rolling off like you was talking about with 7018 on a scrap piece I use to set my heat!!! Makes really pretty welds!!!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

LOL...was thinking the same. Burnt a lot of 6011 and 6013 rods back in the day. Then came the great "JET" rod, 7018!

So who still stick welds???

We need to all get together and have a c10 stick welding party haha! Even my fiancé can run a mean 7018!

[HO455]

She sounds like a keeper.

[ryanv70c10]

Originally Posted by Brando_Vanschoyck

Yeah I can run 7018 vertical and overhead as well! Had to pass those tests in my classes as well I just prefer the 6010/6011 because of less joint prep and they freeze so fast I can fill huge gaps with them! Thanks for all the support and advice guys!!!

Here's a pic of that slag rolling off like you was talking about with 7018 on a scrap piece I use to set my heat!!! Makes really pretty welds!!!

Brings back memories, I used to stick weld on pallet jacks 20 years ago. Guys would rip the legs off of them and give them to me. I would straighten and put them back together and sell them for $300. I bought my first car with that money, a 64 Nova SS which I still have today.

Good luck with the build!

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Brando_Vanschoyck

Thank you very much brother! Like I said I'm still learning, I've only been welding a little over a year but I started with what they say is the hardest and most old fashioned process, arc welding! In my class I took everyone complained about running 6010/6011 especially overhead and vertical so being the guy who loves to do things people say you can't, I of course picked that electrode to focus on! After using these rods I won't use anything else! Thanks so much for the kinds words!

Well your certainly getting a handle on them spatter rods, your welds do indeed look great! I am a retired union Ironworker "structural" and am a certified welder in every application, SMAW, FCAW, MIG, & TIG unlimited thickness, w/6G papers...Your education is about to increase a bit. The E60 series rods are indeed "old school" but are still being used today because each has it's specialized application. 6011 is a sheet metal rod specifically but can be used fill gaps in rusted poor fitting joints. 6010 is a 5P rod that Pipe Fitters use to run a root pass in pipe connections with beveled joints. The following fill passes are always ran with an E70 series electrode. So I ask you, why didnt you use 7018 instead of 6011 or 6010? No E60 series rod is qualified for structural application. It's a low carbon, brittle alloy subject to cracking and is only a 60,000 LB. PSI rod. Your doing a great job, but using the wrong rod. You should be using a low hydrogen E7018 rod, especially on a heat treated carbon steel frame. I see where you boxed the frame at the splice and thats good. You should also "fish plate" the weld connection on the inside of the frame rail, that insures that any integrity lost to heat and stress is maintained through the added fish plate. Again, your welds look great and will no doubt hold, but for how many bumps and loads? I would fish plate both splices and both "Z" connections with at least 3/16 plate and use 7018 or a 70 series wire to know those welds will hold. Crossing a set of railroad tracks or a bumpy busy two lane highway aint no place to get an education... Tack two pieces of scrap together with the 6011 and see how far it bends before breaking. Do the same with 7018 and you'll see first hand why I took the time. You obviously have a talent and the want to learn, It was always a pleasure sharing what the old hands taught me, with somebody that would take the knowledge and put it to experience, then it becomes wisdom...~Ghostrider~

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by HO455

She sounds like a keeper.

She most definitely is!!!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by ryanv70c10

Brings back memories, I used to stick weld on pallet jacks 20 years ago. Guys would rip the legs off of them and give them to me. I would straighten and put them back together and sell them for $300. I bought my first car with that money, a 64 Nova SS which I still have today.

Good luck with the build!

That is one awesome story!!! I'm hoping to do the same, as far as making some money from welding!!!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Well your certainly getting a handle on them spatter rods, your welds do indeed look great! I am a retired union Ironworker "structural" and am a certified welder in every application, SMAW, FCAW, MIG, & TIG unlimited thickness, w/6G papers...Your education is about to increase a bit. The E60 series rods are indeed "old school" but are still being used today because each has it's specialized application. 6011 is a sheet metal rod specifically but can be used fill gaps in rusted poor fitting joints. 6010 is a 5P rod that Pipe Fitters use to run a root pass in pipe connections with beveled joints. The following fill passes are always ran with an E70 series electrode. So I ask you, why didnt you use 7018 instead of 6011 or 6010? No E60 series rod is qualified for structural application. It's a low carbon, brittle alloy subject to cracking and is only a 60,000 LB. PSI rod. Your doing a great job, but using the wrong rod. You should be using a low hydrogen E7018 rod, especially on a heat treated carbon steel frame. I see where you boxed the frame at the splice and thats good. You should also "fish plate" the weld connection on the inside of the frame rail, that insures that any integrity lost to heat and stress is maintained through the added fish plate. Again, your welds look great and will no doubt hold, but for how many bumps and loads? I would fish plate both splices and both "Z" connections with at least 3/16 plate and use 7018 or a 70 series wire to know those welds will hold. Crossing a set of railroad tracks or a bumpy busy two lane highway aint no place to get an education... Tack two pieces of scrap together with the 6011 and see how far it bends before breaking. Do the same with 7018 and you'll see first hand why I took the time. You obviously have a talent and the want to learn, It was always a pleasure sharing what the old hands taught me, with somebody that would take the knowledge and put it to experience, then it becomes wisdom...~Ghostrider~

First off, let me say thanks for taking the time to share some of your extensive knowledge with me, a beginner! Second let me say, boy does it feel good to have a person of your knowledge and skill level say I'm doing a good job! As for using 6011 instead of 7018, honestly I'm not nearly as comfortable with 7018 as I am the 60 series rods. I can run them on thick steel great but with thin metal sometimes I blow holes. I would use 6010 but I have an inverter welder that doesn't run 6010 and the guy I watch for info (Jody, welding tips and tricks.com) uses a lot of 6011 and loves it. I had been told 6010/6011 was the same electrode except 6010 was a DC only rod whereas 6011 can be ran on AC/DC?? Not sure? Again thanks for your time and wisdom and especially good words! I am CERTAINLY a rookie and here to learn as much as I can! Hope I didn't come off as cocky or anything because that is not me, if I ever acted like a know it all my parents would beat me!!! I am however kinda bummed out now thinking all my hard work may now fail!!!?!?! I have made sure to get 100% penetration or back weld each joint. I'm very impressed with your certs, I too hope to pass as many certs as possible in my time! Thanks again!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

finally got around to the front! Man this was a nightmare to get to some of these joints!!! Also some bad fit up on my part but I'm getting better and better at closing gaps/holes!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

More pics

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

also wanted to show you guys this lamp I built the other day! I think it turned out pretty cool!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

ok last post for now i promise lol don't know if any of you guys are into art or not, but figured I'd share this as well since everyone here seems so cool! This is a charcoal drawing I finished that I started working on in 2015 haha hope y'all like it!

[projectking]

Great work brother! Can't wait to see the sheetmetal back on the frame, keep it going!

[Dustmaker65]

The chassis looks pretty good! Cool lamp, but a killer art piece! You need that framed for the Man Cave!

Keep up the great work! What is next on your list of to-do's?

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by projectking

Great work brother! Can't wait to see the sheetmetal back on the frame, keep it going!

Thanks so much bro! I'm learning as I go!!! I'm super excited to start putting it back together as well! Thanks for checking out my thread!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

The chassis looks pretty good! Cool lamp, but a killer art piece! You need that framed for the Man Cave!

Keep up the great work! What is next on your list of to-do's?

Thanks for the kind words!!! I think the next thing would be to try to get the back end of the frame down. I'm thinking I will just Z the rear as I've seen some people do and see how low that gets me. I'm thinking if I run a small enough diameter tire I can get it to lay frame. I need to put my bag plates/cups in as well up front, need to buy some drill bits! Also I need to box the frame in all the Z points. Running really low on materials so it may be a few days!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Here are my bag cups, I had some tape laying around didn't know the width so I threw a piece on and it looks like this may be too much to cut off the cups? Can these trucks lay frame on a 16" wheel with cups/plates?? Any help would be appreciated guys, thanks!

[Brando_Vanschoyck]

Finally started on the back. Ran out of rods so, this is as far as I have made it. If my measurements are correct, the back should be about 1" from laying out with this size tire 28.5-29". Now to get the damn front down!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Brando_Vanschoyck

Thanks for the kind words!!! I think the next thing would be to try to get the back end of the frame down. I'm thinking I will just Z the rear as I've seen some people do and see how low that gets me. I'm thinking if I run a small enough diameter tire I can get it to lay frame. I need to put my bag plates/cups in as well up front, need to buy some drill bits! Also I need to box the frame in all the Z points. Running really low on materials so it may be a few days!

I like your attitude & willingness to listen to some of the great input so far. I'm impressed that you're doing so well for a first time build. No slowly wading in the pool for you. You climbed the ladder for the high-dive & did THE cannonball! LOL....

If I might add some insight.... Getting it as low as can be w/wheel & tires appropriately sized yields better visual results vs. using shorter wheels & tires just to make it as low as possible. I've seen more than a few trucks that the owner got it to 'lay frame' but used super short tires that did not look as good as another truck that maybe doesn't lay frame but has the wheel well filled.

Food for thought.