mini starters

[BigTopGT]

Double post of the pics?

[AussieinNC]

The label you have marked as Ground is not Ground....do not ground this wire....you will burn up the entire circuit and wires!!!!

The thick wire marked as "Ground" in your pic is the internal feed from the solenoid direct to the brushes of the starter...

Ground return is the usual thru the body of the starter to the engine block.

Make absolutely sure you have ground straps between the body and chassis, body and engine block, radiator frame to chassis, and finally dash to body....

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by BigTopGT

I know power, obviously, but what's the arrangement for the purple and yellow wires?

Pics for reference.

Simple answer is if you still run original points type of ignition you need the yellow wire, and most modern and aftermarket starters do not have that provision. If, however you are running an electronic ignition (eg. HEI) then the yellow wire is no longer needed and you can simply not worry about hooking it up.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by tx firefighter

simple answer is if you still run original points type of ignition you need the yellow wire, and most modern and aftermarket starters do not have that provision. If, however you are running an electronic ignition (eg. Hei) then the yellow wire is no longer needed and you can simply not worry about hooking it up.

^^^this!^^^ Im running the JEGS "Made in USA" Hitachi style 555-100012 starter. My block is actually drilled and tapped for diagonal and straight starter attachments (454 block) and that starter can be indexed for either flexplate. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10012/10002/-1

[BigTopGT]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Simple answer is if you still run original points type of ignition you need the yellow wire, and most modern and aftermarket starters do not have that provision. If, however you are running an electronic ignition (eg. HEI) then the yellow wire is no longer needed and you can simply not worry about hooking it up.

Thanks TX!

I'm out of town a few days, but when I get back Tuesday I'll get it installed and report back with how it goes.

[BigTopGT]

Originally Posted by storm9c1

Go to your local auto parts store (ie: Advance) and order the following "over the counter" starter: For a 153 tooth flywheel and the straight bolt pattern starter, get the Corvette starter from a 1995 5.7L Corvette (Advance P/N 17124). That's if you have a 153 tooth flywheel and the straight bolt pattern starter. If you have a 168 tooth flywheel and the staggered bolt pattern starter, get the starter for a 2003 Silverado 3500 8.1L (P/N 17420). They are both Nippon-Denso style mini-starters, easy to get over the counter, and last forever, with a lifetime warranty. Usually around $118. Luckily GM stayed consistent with bolt patterns over all of those years. You can play the same games with Mopars as well, for example I stuck a modern Dodge Dakota starter (also Nippon-Denso style) on my '69 Charger. Again, Chrysler kept the same bolt and teeth pattern for 40 years. Little tricks to save you some money, get a better starter, have a lifetime warranty.

So, I've got the 17420 starter in my 71 and it's great for a bunch of reasons. (started on the first hit of the key)

What didn't work however, were the stock bolts from the OG starter. (too short by about 3/4 of an inch)

Anyone know of a resource for OEM bolts that are slightly longer than the 1971 Factory bolts?

Will the bolts from the 2003 8.1 work?

[iriereggaeman]

I know this post is a bit old, but perhaps it can be resurrected? I read this a month ago, and purchased a Jegs ProStarter Small Block Chevy mini starter, Part number 555-10002 ; https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10002/10002/-1





I have uploaded a video that identifies the current struggles. Please see here:

https://youtu.be/bi76utLAtA8

Thanks for reading/watching!