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Old 06-05-2020, 07:50 AM   #1
stilldreamin6772
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getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Ok guys and gals,
I have a 67 with the you ruined it 6.0 4l80swap. I'm currently running the stock 2" drive shaft that worn torn and needs to go. a friend has a donor Express van and said I could have the shaft out of it. Will probably need to be shortened. now being budget minded I thought this would be a good idea seeing the shaft shop local quoated me 700 for a 2piece and 150 to shorten a shaft. I see a lot of people have dumped the 2 piece and had shafts made. what's the general census.

my set up and use for the truck=
6.0 vortex
4l80e
245/65r17 tire
3.73 rear end. (will end up with a locker or posi)
mostly a daily driver with occasional weekend shenanigans.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:12 PM   #2
HO455
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Unfortunately for you there is no general consensus on this subject. Do a search of the dozen or more debates across all the 60 to 72 forums. You will have to pick your path then do your research.
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Old 06-05-2020, 09:24 PM   #3
gmc684x4
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

I would say find out how much clearance you have for a possible 1 peice drive shaft
The truck arm cross member is the limiting factor as the drive shaft has to fit through it which is not a factor on a leaf sprung truck
When setup you can corner much better with a truck arm setup
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Old 06-06-2020, 01:33 PM   #4
Greg58
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

I have been considering the same thing, and have a few aluminum drive shafts saved as possible donors.
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Old 06-07-2020, 07:47 AM   #5
zicc1835
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

my 72 Cheyenne LWB had a single shaft installed by the PO 402/700r4 he modified the OEM trailing arms crossmember to take the angle of the single shaft .......would be my choice
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:41 PM   #6
gmc684x4
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Here is a cross member replacement that I found

https://pbfab.com/1963-72-trailing-a...ece-driveshaft
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:14 AM   #7
my67c20
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Save the $550 for other go fast goodies.
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Old 09-09-2020, 03:24 PM   #8
Nick2x2x
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

I had one built by action machine for 465 shipped to me. i went from a 2pc on a long bed to a 1pc
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Old 09-09-2020, 05:32 PM   #9
gmc684x4
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Locker on street driven trucks suck go with a posi you will be happier

Lockers are built for off road use hard cornering with a Detroit lockers can produce a heck of a bang af it disengages and re engages
I have them in one of my 4x4 trucks my two wheel drive truck is getting a posi
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Old 09-09-2020, 05:52 PM   #10
MySons68C20
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Local driveshaft shop $400 to change my 2 pc to a 1 pc.
He didn't reuse anything but the yoke out of the 700r4.
Blakeslee
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:05 PM   #11
Andy4639
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Thumbs up Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

71 C 10 with 2004 HD 6.0 /4L80E and had the 2 piece swapped for a 1 piece. Love it.
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Old 09-09-2020, 11:13 PM   #12
Ptjsk
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

Give Tom Woods Driveshaft a call.

Very good people to work with as well.

Pat
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Old 09-10-2020, 11:56 AM   #13
bry593
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Re: getting the shaft! drive shaft that is

I considered a 1-pc when I converted to 4L80E on a long bed C20. Unfortunately, I found that the driveshaft would contact the trailing arm crossmember with suspension at full droop. The driveshaft shop suggested cutting away a portion of the crossmember. I pointed out that the crossmember is a structural piece through which all push from the axle flows to the main frame of the truck. Not a chance I would cut it up without adding metal to regain the strength and stiffness that was lost. That sounded like too much custom work and so I simply had the forward shaft shortened, a new TH400 yoke installed, along with all new joints and a new carrier bearing (which I welded the attachment pad along the sides). I think all this cost about $275 with balance. Works great!

DO NOT USE A URETHANE HOUSED CARRIER BEARING!!!! The bearing must be housed in rubber so as to allow the slip yolk to move in and out of the transmission as the suspension goes through its trailing arm arc. I can't understand how anyone thought the urethane was a good idea.
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