Any lifted K2500 Suburbans out there

[85supersierra]

im looking for lift kit advice for my 93 K2500 Suburban 8-lug. Options?

[special-K]

Pretty much the same 4-6" lifts that have always been out. No other way to lift has been done. Then there is straight axle swap. I have an '85 K2500 Suburban and I went cheap and cranked the torsion bars up to fit 255/85-16s and 285/75-16s. I want to bring the rear up a couple inches still. They look cool lifted a couple more inches, but it's expensive and a lot of work. I don't want to do that much on this one

[special-K]

The 4-6" lifts are actually 4" lifts and to get 2 more inches you crank the torsion bars. So another option is crank the torsion bars to get 1-2" w/o buying a lift. On my '92 K3500, when I replaced shocks later on, the shocks were too short. I ran a 2" longer application. I did nothing to the rear because it cat level. Years later the rear springs sagged and instead doing any spring work I installed Air Lift auxiliary springs (air bags). Something I had always wanted to do since I knew the long leafs could use some help sometimes. As usual, 2" lifts are barely detectable, but allow for larger tires which also add ground clearance. I'd like a simple way to get 4", just 2 more inches. The 1500s had lift spindles and control arms available to them. Maybe still. Someone should make that for 8-luggers. They'd sell like hot cakes? How much lift do you want? Or what size tires where you thinking? Here's a picture of my Suburbsn before and after. Before it had 245/75-16s w/stock 6 1/2" wheels and after 255/85-17s w/7" ford wheels:



Here is my '92 K3500 with same tire/wheel combo, cranked up torsion bars, and Air Lifts in the rear:


Here is my '95 K3500, same up front, 285/75-16s w/8" wheels:

[85supersierra]

After much research and speaking with local shops i have decided to just do a body lift. Cranking the torsion bars is just a bad idea. Its not what they where designed for. Its no different than heating a spring to lower a car, yes it works but its not the right way. I looked at the available lifts and decided they just where not worth it to me. I dont foresee any heavy offroad action so the stock suspension will be fine. The body lift does not alter any suspension angles or load points. It did however allow me to run my 17x9 DC-2 wheels with 4.5" of back spacing. With a set of BFG All Terrains 285/75r17s. I got the look i was after and it stayed well under budget.

[special-K]

Looks good. I wonder why there's a provision for adjusting, I mean cranking, the torsion bars. I can appreciate that you now have your own opinion, but I have driven all three of the trucks shown with absolutely no adverse effects. Otherwise I would never have suggested doing it. The '92 I did at 60k and drove till 335k with all original front end parts except idler arm. And that truck was always loaded to no less than 8k since new.

[85supersierra]

As you say it is an opinion. I have just heard from several GM techs that said it greatly increases the load on the front end. You are increasing the spring rate by cranking the bars. The adjustment was designed to dial in initial load and compensate for different engine weights and front accessories that add weight to the front end. I figure keeping my suspension stock is the best bet. I will be adjusting the bars a bit to level the truck from side to side. I measured the wheel openings before and after the lift and the passenger side rides about 1/2 in higher. So I will use the bars to fine tune it but not to lift it two or three inches.

[b454rat]

I call BS on the crank. I've had many of these trucks, and everyone was cranked, within reason. Now if you put an impact and tighten the crap outta it, then yes you will have issues. My current truck has over 200k on it, and the bars are turned up a little bit. It rides just the same. It has 285/70/17 on H2s.

[special-K]

I agree with the techs, but disagree with their reasoning. For the soccer mom owner or Mr. & Mrs. Butterbutt on vacation it creates a more firm ride they wouldn't want. They also would want lower entry height. But increasing spring rate is a thing truck guys want and they accept the decease in kooshy ride. My IFS trucks with cranked bars ride 2x smoother than any other light or heavy solid axle 4wd I've owned and as well as any 2wd truck I've owned (8-lugger). The factory setting puts the tail in the air and the front looks like it will bottom out. It sure looked like those trucks in the ads back in the day splashing through mud were bottoming out to me. It was embarrassing as a GM Truck guy to see those ads . My experience with 4wds has been, lifting a truck means a stiffer ride. Even the new softer riding leaf spring lifts ride stiffer than stock. If people keep the stock shocks they are limiting the suspension droop. I couldn't even stretch to bolt on with the weight on that corner. That'll cause a harsh ride and cause problems. My cranked bars not only allow mounting larger tires, it serves to resist those larger tires from rubbing.