Which bag brackets?

[jnocero]

I need help choosing which bag brackets to buy and how to install to give access to bolts and ports.
I have a 67 C-10, stock crossmember, control arms, and trailing arms.
I think I understand the front setup:


Upper plates which bolt in, lower cups which weld in?
Then I need to drill holes to run the air lines out the top somewhere? Is that upper fitting a straight or a 90?

The more confusing part is the rear. I guess I am going to place the bags where the old coil went, on top of the trailing arm.
For the bottom mounts, do I weld a cup onto the top of the arm with the cup facing down, and feed the bag bolts and air line in the small space between the cup and the arm? Or maybe drill the side of the cup for the airline? Do I notch the top of the arm for more space? Anybody got photos of these details? Suicide said I could weld studs to the bottom of the cups and run a bolt down through the arms, but I didn't understand, because there is no bottom on the cup. Am I not getting this?

And on the top of the rear bags, my frame has a flat plate for the old spring seat, and a hole where the old spring retainer was. Can I just drill 2 holes for the bag bolts through the frame, then run the air line up through the old center hole?

Guess I just need to see some photos. Not a lot of this to look at in my town.

[Shane]

bolt in the top plates and then bolt the bags to it ... bolt the lower cup to the bottom of the bag and just sit in the pocket in the lower a-arm ... you're good to go.

no need to weld or bolt the cup to the lower arm ... it's being held in place with the bolt in the top.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Shane

bolt in the top plates and then bolt the bags to it ... bolt the lower cup to the bottom of the bag and just sit in the pocket in the lower a-arm ... you're good to go.

no need to weld or bolt the cup to the lower arm ... it's being held in place with the bolt in the top.

x2.

For the rear you can bolt the bags in place of the coils (if you drill the requisite holes in the frame for mounting & the air fitting) or you can make a 'hat' that allows bolting the bag in using the stock coil mounting holes. The 'hat' method will limit drop vs. the drilling & direct install.

Don'f forget the need for an adjustable Panhard bar (the longer the better) & some shock relocators.

[Shane]

you might also want to consider a C notch for the rear ...

[Hottrucks]

you might want to cut 1" off the lower front cups to for a better stance..this allows the bag to ride in the middle

[edflores]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

x2.

For the rear you can bolt the bags in place of the coils (if you drill the requisite holes in the frame for mounting & the air fitting) or you can make a 'hat' that allows bolting the bag in using the stock coil mounting holes. The 'hat' method will limit drop vs. the drilling & direct install.

Don'f forget the need for an adjustable Panhard bar (the longer the better) & some shock relocators.

Whats holding the uppers cups in? The stock coil retainer? I was about to slap a piece of all thread on my rear upper cups to make it a bolt in deal, but if I dont have to, that will save me a few minutes and a few bucks.

[jnocero]

Okay, I think I got most of it. Thanks.
More questions:
For the front air lines, it looks like I can drill a hole in the rear of the upper spring cups to run the air line out and up into the frame.

I don't get this part for the top of the rear bags:

or you can make a 'hat' that allows bolting the bag in using the stock coil mounting holes.

My stock coil just had one big bolt holding it in on the top, in the center. The hat looks like it needs 2 smaller holes on each side of center, leaving the center for the air line. Or are you saying run one bag bolt up through the frame, and leave the other one short?

As for the shock relocators, is that on the rear?
And is that both top and bottom?
Does the front also need relocators?

And when you say "cut 1" off the lower front cups for a better stance", do you mean make the cups drop down into the LCA a bit more?
What would be a good final height for the cup in order to fit in there the best?

Finally, the panhard bar. Can I keep the stock stud on the differential, and stock bracket on the frame?
I read here that the bar rubs some C-notches. I was going to use a CPP or Suicide notch.

[SCOTI]

My stock coil just had one big bolt holding it in on the top, in the center. The hat looks like it needs 2 smaller holes on each side of center, leaving the center for the air line. Or are you saying run one bag bolt up through the frame, and leave the other one short?

The 'hat' in those previous pics does not have the retaining bolt attached yet. The retaining bolt does fit exactly where the original coil spring bolt went. If you don't use the 'hat', you'll have to drill all the holes (2 smaller holes on each side of center plus the center for the air line). I attached some new pics that would be a direct bolt in deal. The previous pics I welded in an offset stud.

As for the shock relocators, is that on the rear?
And is that both top and bottom?
Does the front also need relocators?

Yes.
Yes.
Possibly....

Finally, the panhard bar. Can I keep the stock stud on the differential, and stock bracket on the frame?
I read here that the bar rubs some C-notches. I was going to use a CPP or Suicide notch.

You can utilize the stock stud on the pumpkin, but using an aftermarket bracket on the pass side trailing arm is better even though they possibly interfere. Check w/Porterbuilt on his Panhard bar set-up.

[laid_out_70]

for the front, i built upper plates and also cut a hole to make it simpler to keep an eye on the fitting and bag bolts

[roofingbloke]

Originally Posted by laid_out_70

for the front, i built upper plates and also cut a hole to make it simpler to keep an eye on the fitting and bag bolts

Hope you dont mind me asking this question, Does anyone have the dimensions for the upper bag plates including the air bag location fixing hole and air fitting,

Reason for asking i am in the UK and shipping for this item is over £100 quid and i am not willing to pay that when i can make one myself.

[Hottrucks]

^^^^

If your truck is apart you can trace the upper mount and cut out the LCA check my build

[62 Bowtie]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

x2.

For the rear you can bolt the bags in place of the coils (if you drill the requisite holes in the frame for mounting & the air fitting) or you can make a 'hat' that allows bolting the bag in using the stock coil mounting holes. The 'hat' method will limit drop vs. the drilling & direct install.

Don'f forget the need for an adjustable Panhard bar (the longer the better) & some shock relocators.

Hey Scoti i am useing these hats for the rear bags and it does limit the amount of drop any ideas on what to use to make the requisite hole for the fitting im guessing a step bit

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 62 Bowtie

Hey Scoti i am useing these hats for the rear bags and it does limit the amount of drop any ideas on what to use to make the requisite hole for the fitting im guessing a step bit

Step bit would be my choice.

[doubleRdazz]

bump for a helpful thread
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[sharkskinman]

Awake old thread!
Can anyone make a stencil of the upper plate? Rather make one and can't have truck down for more than a day

[bbbc10]

why not buy some an wait till u get them an put them on

[sharkskinman]

Because I can make some and not taking front end apart till I get all the parts together..
I can make some bolt in front and back but just need templates