Did I mess this up?

[Old_iron]

I finally installed the 350 into my truck last night. The trans (sm465) was already bolted into the truck.
This is my first time ever working with a manual transmission, so I am 100% new to all of it.

Details:

• 350sbc
• Cast iron bellhousing number 3925505
• Matching pivot ball and cast clutch fork that came with the above bellhousing (removed from another same-period truck).
• TOB from Rock Auto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1051401&jsn=2

The first photo shows it fully retracted as far away as I can get it, then the fork while it's in that position.
The 3rd shows it moved as close as it will go by hand. The 4th and 5th show the fork when it's in that position.

Once everything was in, I noticed that the throwout bearing seems like it's not very close to the pressure plate fingers. Did I do something wrong? Will it work like it is?

[kwmech]

Looks like there is something wrong with the pressure plate. The fingers of the diaphragm should be pointing towards the bearing.

[Old_iron]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Looks like there is something wrong with the pressure plate. The fingers of the diaphragm should be pointing towards the bearing.

They were pointed like that before I put it on. I noticed that not too long after I got the bolts started, the pressure plate contacted the clutch. Tightening the bolts the rest of the way served to further push the pressure plate against the clutch, and making the fingers not stick out.

Could it be the wrong pressure plate? Please help!

[LockDoc]

-
I agree that something doesn't look right with the pressure plate. Could you have the clutch disk in backwards? It should be marked on the hub "flywheel side"

LockDoc

[AussieinNC]

I suspect the release bearing is the wrong height...see attached pic...

https://www.classicparts.com/1938-75...ctinfo/90-205/

The early bearings up to 75 were 1 7/8" tall...the later ones were only about 1/1/4" which appears to be the height of yours.

The fingers of the pressure plate all look good to me...make sure all the bolts are tight...

[Old_iron]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

...make sure all the bolts are tight...

I torqued them to the proper specs. Brand new bolt set.

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

I suspect the release bearing is the wrong height...see attached pic...

https://www.classicparts.com/1938-75...ctinfo/90-205/

The early bearings up to 75 were 1 7/8" tall...the later ones were only about 1/1/4" which appears to be the height of yours.

Bummer. I need to get the part locally, does anyone know a generic auto parts store PN for the longer style?

[AussieinNC]

The release bearing you have installed is for the three finger Borg and Back style pressure plate...its only 1 1/4" tall....

https://www.classicparts.com/1951-84...ctinfo/90-211/

It wont work with the diaphragm style clutch you have...pull the trans or engine and swap out the bearing...

Have fun!!!

[Killer Bee]

yep, wrong release bearing, happened to me once..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...14&postcount=9

I questioned the counter man when I picked up my parts but he insisted..

after assembly, I knew I should haven't have listened to that idiot in the store..

only after threatening to wrap it around his neck did he finally agree to accept my 'used' clutch for refund

assuming it was out of budget, turned out the NEW 12" perf clutch kit direct from dealer was only $75 more..

lesson learned way back then..

[Old_iron]

I need to get the part locally, does anyone know a generic auto parts store PN for the longer style? Or somewhere cheaper than $34? Rock auto only seems to have the short style.

[AussieinNC]

I feel your pain mate...

Seriously, without a correct sample, you will most likely have zero chance of matching the correct one at a local "gotta get it from our warehouse" parts order...

Just order it from Classicparts and ship it...

https://www.classicparts.com/1938-75...ctinfo/90-205/

You did put a pilot bearing in the end of the crank didnt you? Without it, your clutch will vibrate big time and the input shaft of the trans will have zero support on one end...

https://www.classicparts.com/1947-87...ctinfo/90-302/

[Old_iron]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

You did put a pilot bearing in the end of the crank didnt you? Without it, your clutch will vibrate big time and the input shaft of the trans will have zero support on one end...

Yes, I got that part right. Thanks for the info and help.

[Old_iron]

UPDATE:
Last night I got the short TOB pulled and the new one (that was recommended to me above) put in. The clutch fork throw now seems just as it should be. Thanks for all the help one that.

Issue:
Now that I've got that done, I started installing the clutch z-bar.

Note, that I am doing a swap from the 305 GMC V6 to the SBC 350v8. The Z-bar and linkages were removed from the V6 and I am trying to use them for the 350.

As you can see in the pics below, it does look like it fits, and lines up. I have not threaded the stud part into the block yet fully.

3 questions:
1.Am I correct that I can reuse this z-bar?
2. As you can see a little in the pics, the bar is not at a 100% right angle to the engine - is it supposed to be?
3. The rod that goes and connects the wedge shaped piece to the clutch fork is too short. Even if adjust it out all the way it is way too short. Can I just weld/rig up a new threaded rod and call it a day?

[AussieinNC]

There is a missing plate that bolts to the block where you have the pivot ball placed. The plate has a captive pivot ball on it. The pivot then moves rear ward, placing the z bar at 90 deg to the clutch fork. There are several threaded rod lengths. Make a new rod up, but fix the pivot first.