cargo light installation

[incoma]

I've tried to install my cargo light using those awful rubber well nuts. Well, now I've found a better solution. I have discovered rivet-nuts. What wonderful creaters these are. I've included a pic of a rivet nut that's been crimped, what they look like uninstalled, and what they look like installed.

If you're not familiar with them they are a special rivet. Basically, they have threads inside and when you crimp, you're using the treads to "bulge" the steel in a similar fashion to a pop rivet.

These particular rivets are steel, and they are 1/4-20 thread. That was the only size that the fastener shop had that was .375" diameter to fit in the cargo light holes. Now I just need to get the appropriate size panhead screw, and I'm in business. It seems that a 1 1/4" or 1" long panhead screw will work fine with these. Either way, I've now got a solution to the well nuts pulling out of the holes!

[incoma]

forgot a pic

[rage'nrat638]

and where does one find these little guy's.
they look very cool..i could think of many times i could have use this little guy

[incoma]

Any fastener store will sell them. I've been selling kits on ebay with some aluminum riv-nuts. I was surprised too, the steel crimped very easily. I expected it to be a fight!

These worked really well also because they had a large lip on the outside. They really gripped the steel.

My dad told me that he used them with some electrical panels years ago. I mentioned them to a hot rodder at work and he said the same thing. Really handy when working with sheetmetal.

[rage'nrat638]

Originally Posted by incoma

Any fastener store will sell them. I've been selling kits on ebay with some aluminum riv-nuts. I was surprised too, the steel crimped very easily. I expected it to be a fight!

These worked really well also because they had a large lip on the outside. They really gripped the steel.

My dad told me that he used them with some electrical panels years ago. I mentioned them to a hot rodder at work and he said the same thing. Really handy when working with sheetmetal.

what like ace hardware???

[incoma]

No. I had to go to a nut and bolt dealer in the area. You know, one of those places that sells bolts by the lbs. MSC and Fastenal will carry them, although I don't know what the cost is. I think my steel rivet nuts (aka rivnut) cost about $.60 each.

[Longhorn Man]

But now you'll have problems with the light being on constantly.
The dome and cargo light have full time power, and are switched on the ground side. By running a metal screw into a metal fastner attached to the metal body, you are giving the light a ground and you won't be able to shut it off at all.

[rauto13]

Longhorn Man, you made me think! I used these rivet nuts to mount my cargo light and it works correctly, I have been trying to remember how I made it work.

You are correct about the metal bolt into a metal fastner in a metal body creating a constant ground.

What I did was I put an O-ring or some other type of rubber piece on the bolts to keep from grounding the bolt to the cargo light housing.

Works like a charm for a couple years now and really easy to put the cargo light in.

[OhioDan]

Years ago, I bought a kit from MAC Tools. They called it a nut-sert kit. It contains all different size nut-serts from about #10-32, to about 3/8"-16? Also includes about everything to install them, except for the drillbits. Sure has come in handy.

[Yukon Jack]

What type of tool do you install them with? Looks like a great thing to put somewhere in my brain to remember.

[dwaite72lnghrn]

Harbor freight sells a kit and replacement nuts. When you use them just don't over tighten them as they will spin and you will never get them off. I forget how much I payed for it around $20 on sale with Tool/4 threadedmandrels/and about 75 different size nuts. A box of replacement nuts are about $12 for 75 assorted.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by Yukon Jack

What type of tool do you install them with? Looks like a great thing to put somewhere in my brain to remember.

Looks something like a rivit gun, but with threaded part sticking out where the pop rivit would go. Thread the Riv-nut onto the tool, set in the hole, and squeeze. You can change the threaded rod to match whatever thread the Riv-nut is. I have a Mac set also.

[incoma]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

But now you'll have problems with the light being on constantly.
The dome and cargo light have full time power, and are switched on the ground side. By running a metal screw into a metal fastner attached to the metal body, you are giving the light a ground and you won't be able to shut it off at all.

Am I doing something wrong?... I was playing around today to figure out the best way to mount this so its not on all the time (based on your appreciated advice above), and I couldn't get it to turn on at all - unless the door was open. I think the door jam switch will keep this from being on all of the time... perhaps that's breaking the juice to the light?

[mrein3]

IIRC, I installed mine the way the factory did and it only works when the dome light is on.

[Longhorn Man]

some how it is working right then...
You ran a metal bolt into a metal insert int eh sheet metal on the cab... right?

[incoma]

I haven't actually screwed and mounted the cargo light. I was pressing it against the cab when I did this. It still should have grounded though.

I guess the door jam switch is cutting the positive lead. I even played with the cargo / dome switch and it seems to be working correctly.

I wonder if I have something backwards and it should be on all the time. All of my wiring is original and unmolested. Perhaps I just got lucky!

[rauto13]

I think mine would only work with the dome light on, I reran wiring so I can turn on the cargo light with or without the door open, I had to use a three way toggle switch.

The white ground wire is what makes and breaks the circuit to the dome light and cargo light.

[Longhorn Man]

it's only supposed to work with the door open, but once you mount it, if it's going to be metal to metal hdwr to metal body, then you'll be up the creek.
The dome lamp circuit is always hot, the switch (both the one one the dash and the ones in the door jambs) is on the ground side of the circuit.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

it's only supposed to work with the door open,

Just so folks aren't confused it works with the door open OR with the dome light on via the headlamp switch with the door shut.

Basically if you have the dome light on you can flick the cargo light on and off - if wired the way it left the factory.

[Longhorn Man]

good call.... my mistake.

[mocwon]

Nut-serts have been used for ages by auto/truck manufacturers to attach side view mirrors that are mounted on door skins. They work great for that and just about anything else where a blind, threaded, hole in sheet metal is needed.

[incoma]

I finally got around to getting the mounting bolts. Rather than getting some philips head bolts, I got some with hex heads. That way I can really torque this light down so it seals. I thought I'd add a pic just to be thorough.

[Numskull]

The nutzerts are a great idea. Used some 50 cent 1/4x20 Nylon Screws I got from Home Depot. A little thread locker and good to go. Insulated from the body, light works perfectly