Setting up new crate engine - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LSUMurse · 12-14-2013, 05:58 PM

I got a new crate engine from Jegs.

They come set at TDC. Shouldn't I be able to put on my harmonic balancer and timing tab, mark them at 0 degrees, and drop in my distributor and use whichever point it's pointing to as #1 spark?

Husker · 12-14-2013, 06:15 PM

I think you have to pint it towards #1 cylinder then that is #1 plug wire when cap is on.
I have always pointed it at #1 not sure if it would work any other way.
Ron

**leddzepp** · 12-14-2013, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LSUMurse

I got a new crate engine from Jegs.

They come set at TDC. Shouldn't I be able to put on my harmonic balancer and timing tab, mark them at 0 degrees, and drop in my distributor and use whichever point it's pointing to as #1 spark?

Yes, I have done it this way many times. If you are at TDC, drop in the distributor. Wherever the rotor points is #1, then just follow with the rest of the wires in the correct firing order.

Husker · 12-14-2013, 07:44 PM

Shows how much I know. LOL
Ron

69SWB4X4 · 12-14-2013, 07:50 PM

Make sure you are on the compression stroke or you will be 180* off.

msgdsrf · 12-14-2013, 08:44 PM

Timing cover is on right. So install the harmonic balancer (it's keyed) and see if she is at TDC. Use an installer or longer threaded bolt not a hammer. You can just drop in the distributor as mentioned, but there is a standard of having #1 at about 4 o'clock. So clock the rotor to about 3 0'clock then install. Verify distributor end play.

Tx Firefighter · 12-14-2013, 09:45 PM

Jeez fellas, you're only giving part of the story.

There are two TDC events, only one is proper for dropping in distributor and pointing at number one. The other TDC event is for number 6.

You have to make sure you're at number one COMPRESSION before you drop the distributor in. Otherwise, you've got a 50/50 chance of being right.

**LockDoc** · 12-15-2013, 12:50 AM

-
Be careful here. I'm in the process of bolting the accessories on mine and it is not @ TDC.

LockDoc

swamp rat · 12-15-2013, 03:00 AM

I would install the balancer, its keyed so not much room for error, not sure i'd trust any company's word about if its at TDC on #1, but if the balancer is marked the timing tab and mark will give you an idea. to be sure I'd pull the driver side valve cover and see if both rockers are level and the valves closed. If you need too pull all the plugs and rotate the engine while watching the rockers on #1, Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust, both rockers should be level with the valve closed. If you end up rotating watch for the #1 intake rocker to drop then come back up, then put your finger over the plug hole and feel the compression as it comes up, then line up the marks, that will get you close enough to install the Distributor. Look at the page link below, scroll down about 3/4 of the page to the V-8 section, Husker is accurate about pointing the rotor toward the #1 cyl, it may not be necessary but hey, i do it by the book.

http://www.mre-books.com/chevy/engin...ing_order.html

**LockDoc** · 12-15-2013, 10:37 AM

-
Another thing I found out... I had a really nice used harmonic balancer that I wanted to use so I cleaned it up and painted it, slid it on the crank as far as it would go by hand and turned the engine over to TDC (#1 on compression). The timing mark on the balancer did not line up, so I went through the process again. Same thing. After checking with a mechanic friend of mine we finally figured out the balancer was off of an engine that used the 12 o'clock position for timing the engine. (he thought maybe some of the 307 engines)

Just something else to be aware of.

LockDoc

Bigdav160 · 12-15-2013, 11:14 AM

I always set my balancer to 8º BTDC before setting the distributor. Make sure the slot on the oil pump drive shaft is pointing to cylinder #5 or the distributor will not set all the way down.

Is this an HEI? Take the rotor off and line the points of the magnets and lock the distributor down. The engine should fire right up.

67ChevyRedneck · 12-15-2013, 11:21 AM

For something as expensive as a crate engine, I would never leave something to chance. Also, since you seem new to this, I'll also recommend that you have a good break in oil that has lots of zinc in it (I'll have to research this myself for when I fire mine) AND make sure you prime the oil system before you even drop the distributor in. You can make your own priming tool out of an old junk distributor or they're less than $20 for one for your drill.

LSUMurse · 12-15-2013, 12:13 PM

Thanks for all the info and suggestions guys. I'm going to go ahead and get a piston stop, timing tape, and some patience and do it right. Like some have said, there's no reason to leave it to chance and then have to fight with it later.

Tx Firefighter · 12-15-2013, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

For something as expensive as a crate engine, I would never leave something to chance. Also, since you seem new to this, I'll also recommend that you have a good break in oil that has lots of zinc in it (I'll have to research this myself for when I fire mine) AND make sure you prime the oil system before you even drop the distributor in. You can make your own priming tool out of an old junk distributor or they're less than $20 for one for your drill.

It's sold by the General himself at the dealership parts counter or mail order houses. Nothing says "valid warranty" like buying the proper stuff from GM.

I even take pictures of myself putting it in the engine in case there's ever any beef about warranty.

67ChevyRedneck · 12-15-2013, 01:02 PM

Awesome!

So Kevin, what's your fire up process?

**MusicMan70** · 12-15-2013, 01:09 PM

Subscribed; Great Info!

Tx Firefighter · 12-15-2013, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Awesome!

So Kevin, what's your fire up process?

Personally, I drop in the distributor about 10 degrees before. Then when I start the engine, I ramp it up to 2000-2500 rpm for half an hour. Then shut off and cool down, change oil and begin tuning and driving. Then I change oil again at 500 miles. After that, normal 3k intervals.

There's probably some fellows who take issue with my methods, but they work well for me. I've read pretty much all the usual stuff about break in like most guys and have formed my opinions and methods.

67ChevyRedneck · 12-15-2013, 02:11 PM

That's pretty much how I've been reading how to do it, it's also very similar to the instructions I got with my rebuilt motor I bought like 12 years ago. I was surprised to find zero info with my crate engine. Just some plastic, paper, and 12 and 2 o'clock timing tabs in a bag. I thought they would at least include a recommended break in procedure...

Also, what's your mixture with the assembly lube? I know rotella is about the only oil left with zinc, and of course the additive, do you add a bottle of the assembly lube to the break in mix?

Tx Firefighter · 12-15-2013, 03:04 PM

In the picture above, I used Rotella oil obviously. Then a bottle of GM EOS because I believe in it. Plus, a bottle of Comp Cams lube because they won't warranty a cam without using it.

Ordinarily, I wouldn't use the Comp Cams stuff for a normal GM crate engine.

Longhorn 70 · 12-15-2013, 04:35 PM

Firefighter gave a good explanation. I think of it a little different.
An easy way to do this is.....

Put in your oil, break in and connect oil filter.
Use a pump drive tool to spin the oil pump and prime passages.
Remove all spark plugs EXCEPT #1
Us a ½" drive rachet to crank the engine around....You'll feel when #1 is coming up on compression.
Bring it to about 8º to 10º BEFORE Top Dead Center
Drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing about 3 o'clock. It really doesn't matter if it doesn't drop all the way to the oil pump drive.
If the distributor doesn't drop all the way down, just crank the engine 2 full revs to 8º to 10º BEFORE. It will drop.
The rotor should now point about 4 o'clock. It should match where #1 is on the cap.
Install the cap and fire it up and let run at 2000-2500 RPM for 30 mins or so UNLESS you hear weird noises, knocking, see overheating or????

airdale94 · 12-15-2013, 10:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
Another thing I found out... I had a really nice used harmonic balancer that I wanted to use so I cleaned it up and painted it, slid it on the crank as far as it would go by hand and turned the engine over to TDC (#1 on compression). The timing mark on the balancer did not line up, so I went through the process again. Same thing. After checking with a mechanic friend of mine we finally figured out the balancer was off of an engine that used the 12 o'clock position for timing the engine. (he thought maybe some of the 307 engines)LockDoc

I went through this myself. Here's some good info on harmonic balancers SBC.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._TDC_lines_SBC

12-14-2013, 06:15 PM	#2
Husker Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mid NE USA Posts: 2,209	Re: Setting up new crate engine I think you have to pint it towards #1 cylinder then that is #1 plug wire when cap is on. I have always pointed it at #1 not sure if it would work any other way. Ron __________________ Member #111 68 C-10 Daily Driver 70 4x4 Project 76 Jeep CJ-5 Help Support the Board: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors. Thomas Jefferson

12-14-2013, 07:44 PM	#4
Husker Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Mid NE USA Posts: 2,209	Re: Setting up new crate engine Shows how much I know. LOL Ron __________________ Member #111 68 C-10 Daily Driver 70 4x4 Project 76 Jeep CJ-5 Help Support the Board: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php He who knows nothing is closer to the truth than he whose mind is filled with falsehoods and errors. Thomas Jefferson

12-14-2013, 08:44 PM	#6
msgdsrf Registered User Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: White Salmon, WA Posts: 263	Re: Setting up new crate engine Timing cover is on right. So install the harmonic balancer (it's keyed) and see if she is at TDC. Use an installer or longer threaded bolt not a hammer. You can just drop in the distributor as mentioned, but there is a standard of having #1 at about 4 o'clock. So clock the rotor to about 3 0'clock then install. Verify distributor end play.

12-14-2013, 09:45 PM	#7
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Setting up new crate engine Jeez fellas, you're only giving part of the story. There are two TDC events, only one is proper for dropping in distributor and pointing at number one. The other TDC event is for number 6. You have to make sure you're at number one COMPRESSION before you drop the distributor in. Otherwise, you've got a 50/50 chance of being right. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-15-2013, 12:50 AM	#8
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,329	Re: Setting up new crate engine - Be careful here. I'm in the process of bolting the accessories on mine and it is not @ TDC. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

12-14-2013, 05:58 PM	#1
LSUMurse Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 406	Setting up new crate engine I got a new crate engine from Jegs. They come set at TDC. Shouldn't I be able to put on my harmonic balancer and timing tab, mark them at 0 degrees, and drop in my distributor and use whichever point it's pointing to as #1 spark? __________________ It's not that I am apathetic, I just don't care. If your life is a joke, it appears death will be your punchline.

12-14-2013, 07:50 PM	#5
69SWB4X4 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 54	Re: Setting up new crate engine Make sure you are on the compression stroke or you will be 180* off.

12-15-2013, 03:00 AM	#9
swamp rat Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Spanaway Posts: 8,451	Re: Setting up new crate engine I would install the balancer, its keyed so not much room for error, not sure i'd trust any company's word about if its at TDC on #1, but if the balancer is marked the timing tab and mark will give you an idea. to be sure I'd pull the driver side valve cover and see if both rockers are level and the valves closed. If you need too pull all the plugs and rotate the engine while watching the rockers on #1, Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust, both rockers should be level with the valve closed. If you end up rotating watch for the #1 intake rocker to drop then come back up, then put your finger over the plug hole and feel the compression as it comes up, then line up the marks, that will get you close enough to install the Distributor. Look at the page link below, scroll down about 3/4 of the page to the V-8 section, Husker is accurate about pointing the rotor toward the #1 cyl, it may not be necessary but hey, i do it by the book. http://www.mre-books.com/chevy/engin...ing_order.html __________________ Mike. Swamp Rat build thread : http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019 72 3/4T 4X4 4" BDS Lift 33" BFG's

12-15-2013, 10:37 AM	#10
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,329	Re: Setting up new crate engine - Another thing I found out... I had a really nice used harmonic balancer that I wanted to use so I cleaned it up and painted it, slid it on the crank as far as it would go by hand and turned the engine over to TDC (#1 on compression). The timing mark on the balancer did not line up, so I went through the process again. Same thing. After checking with a mechanic friend of mine we finally figured out the balancer was off of an engine that used the 12 o'clock position for timing the engine. (he thought maybe some of the 307 engines) Just something else to be aware of. LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

12-15-2013, 11:14 AM	#11
Bigdav160 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Klein Texas Posts: 3,852	Re: Setting up new crate engine I always set my balancer to 8º BTDC before setting the distributor. Make sure the slot on the oil pump drive shaft is pointing to cylinder #5 or the distributor will not set all the way down. Is this an HEI? Take the rotor off and line the points of the magnets and lock the distributor down. The engine should fire right up. __________________ My Classics: '72 K20 Suburban + '65 Dodge Town Wagon '72 Corvette Roadster +'67 Corvette Roadster '73 Z-28 Camaro '63 Ford SWB Uni Pickup '50 Ford Coupe

12-15-2013, 11:21 AM	#12
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Setting up new crate engine For something as expensive as a crate engine, I would never leave something to chance. Also, since you seem new to this, I'll also recommend that you have a good break in oil that has lots of zinc in it (I'll have to research this myself for when I fire mine) AND make sure you prime the oil system before you even drop the distributor in. You can make your own priming tool out of an old junk distributor or they're less than $20 for one for your drill. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

12-15-2013, 12:13 PM	#13
LSUMurse Registered User Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: New Orleans, La Posts: 406	Re: Setting up new crate engine Thanks for all the info and suggestions guys. I'm going to go ahead and get a piston stop, timing tape, and some patience and do it right. Like some have said, there's no reason to leave it to chance and then have to fight with it later. __________________ It's not that I am apathetic, I just don't care. If your life is a joke, it appears death will be your punchline.

12-15-2013, 01:02 PM	#15
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Setting up new crate engine Awesome! So Kevin, what's your fire up process? __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

12-15-2013, 01:09 PM	#16
MusicMan70 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Corona, CA Posts: 1,820	Re: Setting up new crate engine Subscribed; Great Info! __________________ MusicMan70 1961 GMC Suburban

12-15-2013, 02:11 PM	#18
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Setting up new crate engine That's pretty much how I've been reading how to do it, it's also very similar to the instructions I got with my rebuilt motor I bought like 12 years ago. I was surprised to find zero info with my crate engine. Just some plastic, paper, and 12 and 2 o'clock timing tabs in a bag. I thought they would at least include a recommended break in procedure... Also, what's your mixture with the assembly lube? I know rotella is about the only oil left with zinc, and of course the additive, do you add a bottle of the assembly lube to the break in mix? __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!



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12-15-2013, 03:04 PM	#19
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Setting up new crate engine In the picture above, I used Rotella oil obviously. Then a bottle of GM EOS because I believe in it. Plus, a bottle of Comp Cams lube because they won't warranty a cam without using it. Ordinarily, I wouldn't use the Comp Cams stuff for a normal GM crate engine. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

12-15-2013, 04:35 PM	#20
Longhorn 70 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Chandler AZ Posts: 1,149	Re: Setting up new crate engine Firefighter gave a good explanation. I think of it a little different. An easy way to do this is..... Put in your oil, break in and connect oil filter. Use a pump drive tool to spin the oil pump and prime passages. Remove all spark plugs EXCEPT #1 Us a ½" drive rachet to crank the engine around....You'll feel when #1 is coming up on compression. Bring it to about 8º to 10º BEFORE Top Dead Center Drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing about 3 o'clock. It really doesn't matter if it doesn't drop all the way to the oil pump drive. If the distributor doesn't drop all the way down, just crank the engine 2 full revs to 8º to 10º BEFORE. It will drop. The rotor should now point about 4 o'clock. It should match where #1 is on the cap. Install the cap and fire it up and let run at 2000-2500 RPM for 30 mins or so UNLESS you hear weird noises, knocking, see overheating or???? __________________ 1970 Longhorn, Front Disc, 350/4 bolt, 882 heads, HEI, Edelbrock, 700R4, HO-52/4.11. 1996 Corvette, Collector Roadster, LT4, 396, 450RWHP, 6sp, 4.11/Dana44/posi 5 point roll bar And let us not grow weary of doing good, for in due season we will reap, if we do not give up. Gal 6:9 Last edited by Longhorn 70; 12-15-2013 at 04:46 PM.

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