help please

[outlawz2004]

Got a 1983 c10 with tilt column. Truck sat unstarted for a year while I did the body work. Went to start truck and battery was too dead to start. Bought a new battery and went to crank it. Truck turn over and over and finally started, but was trying to idle a few seconds, then died. Went to start it again and had a no start no crank issue. Fast forward a few months, finally starting to deal with it. Replaced a starter wire, and tested all the fusible links. Truck has 12 volts but still no start no crank. Replaced the ignition switch down at the middle of the column, same issue, no start no crank. Replaced the neutral safety switch. Still no start no crank. Its driving me nuts. Could the actual key tumbler be causing the problem?

[87Skier]

When you try to start does it make noise? Do the radio, turn signals, windshield wipers and heater fan work?

Try holding the shifter up while it park or try starting in neutral.

[ray_mcavoy]

If the key still turns normally to the start position (without catching or binding), the lock cylinder is likely okay.

The ignition switch is adjustable (via slotted mounting holes). So you might want to check that to make sure the linkage rod (that connects it to the lock cylinder / rack & pinion) is able to pull the switch all the way into the start position.

You could be dealing with a poor connection somewhere in the wiring between the ignition switch and starter. To check that, you'll need to use a test light or voltmeter to check various points along that wire while holding the key in the start position.

For example, connect the test light (or voltmeter) to the ignition switch "S" (solenoid) terminal ... usually a purple or yellow wire. Turn the key to the start position. If there's no power on the "S" terminal you're dealing with (a) an out of adjustment ignition switch, (b) a bad ignition switch, or (c) a problem with the power supply wire to the ignition switch.

If there is power at the switch "S" terminal with the key held in the start position, move on to checking for power at both sides of the neutral safety switch (note that this switch is also adjustable). If that checks out okay, move on to checking where the starter solenoid wire passes through the firewall bulkhead connector behind the fuse box. And finally checking at the starter itself to see if there is a break in the wire somewhere between the bulkhead connector & starter.

[outlawz2004]

Thanks for the response guys. I will try to check some things on my day off. Hopefully I can get it figured out so I can move on the doing the interior.

[Oldschooltruckdude]

Probably sounds crude, but try hitting the starter with a hammer while your buddy tries to crank it - could be rusty, or gummed up from sitting... Have you tried pulling the starter and seeing if it will turn over with direct 12 volts applied to it?

[Matt_50]

What shape was old starter wire in? Which wire on the solenoid?