Starter issues

[red71cheyenne]

Hi guys, been away for a while. Just got home from a ship and am having starter trouble with the 71.

I had adjusted my timing trying to solve an idle issue and then the starter started grinding. Had the starter rebuilt, put it back in, still grinding. Went and got a new starter, still grinding. I've shimmed both ways, still grinding. Removed shims and still grinding. I can't see anything wrong with the flexplate, but bought a new one just in case.

Reset my timing back to factory, just in case that was the problem since that is when it started, but I'm still grinding.

Should I go ahead and replace the flexplate? Anything else I can check?

[mgkgmc]

Its possible you cracked the block where the starter mounts on the outer bolt hole the casting can be very thin there. I had two very small cracks in my block and no matter how i shimmed the starter I still had the issue. I had to find an new block. Some people have had luck repairing this several ways but I wasn't so lucky.

[red71cheyenne]

Thanks, I'll check that, kind of hard to see but the mounting pad looked fine. I'm not using the brace at the back of the starter either, may reinstall it and see if that helps.

[67chevemall]

Had the same problem with a bell housing get mounted starter. Solved by going with a light weight high torque starter. Only needed 2 bolts.
0.02 cents

[red71cheyenne]

I've been wondering about doing the same thing, just not sure why I started having issues. The starter had been fine for 15+ years, then just started grinding. If I do the flexplate and still have issues, may go to the mini-starter.

[67chevemall]

Cvr makes a real good one. I had no problems in 15 plus years now

[57larry]

does it need a shim or 2?

[Wrenchbender Ret]

I take a big coarse flat file & go across the mounting surface on the starter. Often the metal is pulled out around the boltholes & sets the starter away from the flexplate. Adding shims moves the starter further away. Filing down the surface moves it closer.

[Mike (Asheville)]

Originally Posted by red71cheyenne

I've been wondering about doing the same thing, just not sure why I started having issues. The starter had been fine for 15+ years, then just started grinding. If I do the flexplate and still have issues, may go to the mini-starter.

You can inspect the flexplate's teeth along it's entire circumference by using a large screwdriver to rotate it. I'd do that before thinking about replacing it.

[D.PASSMORE]

Even after rebuild, male sure the starter is fully engaging the flex plate. I had that issue before. Plus on my bell housing, the bottom bolt hole is cracked out (no Bolt). The current starter engages fine, but I do have a OE starter brace on the back end of starter.

[red71cheyenne]

57Larry, I tried shimming it both ways, in and out. It only made it worse. I've looked at the teeth on the flexplate, but don't see anything wrong and I can't seem to flex it like its broken in a spot. Gonna start pulling the flexplate today and put the brace back on. I'll update once I've finished that.

[CaptRMW]

The starter shims are not a "Try one here or try one there" kind of deal. Get the instructions for shimming your starter which will tell you a 1/8" drill bit shank should fit snug between the starter armature shaft and a tooth of the flywheel positioned exactly opposite the shaft. Pretty good is not good enough. The brace connecting the starter to the block is not optional and you stand the chance of breaking the starter mounting pad off of the block without it.

[cleszkie]

If you give an engine too much advance, this can cause a lot of stress on the starter and ring gear on the flex plate. This creates a situation where the starter is actually fighting against an engine that is firing too far before TDC when the piston is moving up through its bore. The force of the combustion is forcing the piston back down the bore while the starter is trying to push it up.

You may have set too much advance, causing damage to either the starter or ring gear. When you set the timing back, the damage was done, and noise persisted due to damaged gears. I could be totally wrong here, this is just something to consider.

[franken]

Correct starter bolts and the little bracket to the block might help.

[OBS454]

Originally Posted by CaptRMW

The starter shims are not a "Try one here or try one there" kind of deal. Get the instructions for shimming your starter which will tell you a 1/8" drill bit shank should fit snug between the starter armature shaft and a tooth of the flywheel positioned exactly opposite the shaft. Pretty good is not good enough. The brace connecting the starter to the block is not optional and you stand the chance of breaking the starter mounting pad off of the block without it.

What he said, plus after taking proper measurement it may require shimming only one starter bolt to move the drive closer to the ring. Look up those instructions and take your time.

[red71cheyenne]

Looks like the brace did the trick. I dropped the drive shaft in preps to move the tranny back and replace the flexplate, but stopped and put the brace on first. Tightened it all back up and tried starting, no noise! Started it about 20 more times and all is well, no grinding.

Cleszkie, I am betting that is what caused the initial symptoms, I had either too much advance or it was just way off.

Thanks again to all for the advice, looks like I'm back in business. Next thing I need is a new exhaust.

Jeff