rear disc conversion 71 c10 e-brake

[SuperChief]

A very good amount of explanations about rear disc conversion for a 71 c10. Some have broken links or prices that may have changed. An emergency brake may not be required but if you don't quite trust your trans linkage to hold can a line lock be used when a vehicle is parked. I don't plan on doing burn-outs but can a line lock be cost effective as a parking assist?

[snipescastle2]

I bought Captainfab's Pre-LS1 Camaro/Firebird rear disc brake adapter set and it has the provision for an E brake, but you need the '93 to '97 setup,as the 98 or later use a drum/shoe that is integral of the disc rotor.
Captain Fabs setup uses caprice rear rotors and this setup works great! In order to make the rear E brake cables reach, I simply moved them in board of the frame.
Hope this helps!
Ben

[SuperChief]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I bought Captainfab's Pre-LS1 Camaro/Firebird rear disc brake adapter set and it has the provision for an E brake, but you need the '93 to '97 setup,as the 98 or later use a drum/shoe that is integral of the disc rotor.
Captain Fabs setup uses caprice rear rotors and this setup works great! In order to make the rear E brake cables reach, I simply moved them in board of the frame.
Hope this helps!
Ben

Thanks, does mounting bolts, hoses etc stay under SAE standard?

[snipescastle2]

The only pieces that I had to use was adapter fittings for the metric caliper brake hose to inverted flare type and I took the brake hose mounting brackets off the Camaro I got the calipers off of and used stainless hose clamps to mount them to the axle tubes. Captainfabs kit has all the mounting hardware included.
Ben

[SuperChief]

I really appreciate that you have helped me sort out which brackets to use. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Camaro calipers have provision for e-brake

Use? GOOD/BETTER/BEST?
Camaro Rotor
Astro van front rotors/year?
Impala Rotors/year?

[mikecaddy500]

anyone make disc brake conversions for an eaton 8 lugger?

[snipescastle2]

If I recall correctly, you have to use the Caprice rear disc rotors. One thing to remember about these rotors, and I found this out myself, the center axle hub register(center of the axle that centers inside the rotor as well as the wheel)
Is about .045" to .050" to large to fit the rotors. You need to have this clearance in order to have the rotor fit flush to the axle. You need to have a machine shop take off .045"-.050" off the inside bore of the rotors center bore.

Captain Fab is a vendor here on the forum, most all the info you would need is right there. Make sure you get the pre-LS1 rear calipers! The LS1 type doesn't have the integral E brake cable arms, they use a shoe type E brake that won't work.
The factory Camaro/Firebird rear disc e brake cables work. But you have to route the factory intermediate brake cable in board of the chassis, there are two holes
one on each side of the drive shaft hoop of the crossmember. You run both ends of the factory cable through these holes and the Camaro cables will link up with the factory cable without extending the intermediate cable.
I used the brake hoses that came off the donor Camaro which are metric, but you can get metric to inverted flare adapters to join the hoses to hard lines.

Here is the link to Captain Fabs Camaro brackets.....

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=382633

At first I used the factory equalization valve for disc front/drum rears, didn't have any braking problems at all, but I changed to a disc /disc valve later.
I'm very happy with how it stops, CaptainFab's brackets did the trick!
Have a good one!
Ben

[SuperChief]

Thanks, sorry for being slow on the intake of info. 75 years young don't help much, but the more I learn the less I have to turn a wrench...Why should I reinvent something....Google is my friend as well as YouTube and glad to add this group.....thanks again.

[SuperChief]

Trying to find info and put it here to have a quick reference on complete conversion. So far excellent reference. I plan on using the Camaro calipers.

Now what is entailed in pulling the axles to mount backing plates?
I know I could go look on the truck but I live alone and don't want to pull a wheel need to hire some help. I am gathering info and parts which may take a while with the holiday season in a month.
Hopefully this question is my last on this issue. Thanks to snipecastle2 and Captainfab,

[AussieinNC]

Congrats on being 75 years young and still be eager to work on your truck...

Check out this youtube video link...it will gove you an idea on what is needed to remove the axle...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P80vg9eBouQ

It shows a later model but the theory is still the same...

Seriously,,,this is heavy work...suggest you gather the parts and hire some help to do the tough stuff...

Good luck young man...

[SuperChief]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Congrats on being 75 years young and still be eager to work on your truck...

Check out this youtube video link...it will gove you an idea on what is needed to remove the axle...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P80vg9eBouQ

It shows a later model but the theory is still the same...

Seriously,,,this is heavy work...suggest you gather the parts and hire some help to do the tough stuff...

Good luck young man...

Thanx Shipmate.

[snipescastle2]

Pulling the axles isn't hard at all, it's a messy task, but very easy to do.
Once you pull the rear cover of the differential, and drain out the gear lube,
you want to rotate the driveshaft until you see the 1/2" lock bolt that inserts
into the carrier through the cross shaft(mounts the spider gears) once the lock bolt is out ( provided it isn't broke) you then push the axles inward, this will allow the "C" clips (horse shoe shaped retainers at the very end of the axles) to fall out, or you can use a magnet also. Then the axles will pull all the way out.
The four bolts holding the backing plates to the axle are fine threaded, and have lock nuts in them, personally, I used an impact wrench, otherwise a serious chore to remove.CaptainFab's brackets come with all the hardware and his instructions here on the forum make this easy.
Make sure to be careful not to rotate the axles when you pull the center bolt,
as the spider gears and their thrust washers will "Walk" out and it's a pain to get
them back together. One word of advice, if your gonna go this far to pull it apart,
better replace both axle bearings and seals while your at it. The last two pictures show the axle
inserted into the carrier side gears, you can see the groove on the end of the axle that the "C"
clips fit into.
Tip: when you go to pull the axle seals, use one of the ends of an axle to remove the seal, you insert the end of the axle into the opening of the seal and pull downward, the groove for
the c clips will grab the seal and pull it out. The bearing however, will require a special puller
that attaches to a slide hammer to get that out. Most auto parts houses have them for rent.
Hope this helps!
Ben


here's a few pictures...

[snipescastle2]

I'm retired Navy by the way....seen your post about "Shipmate" lol.😀

[SuperChief]

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

I'm retired Navy by the way....seen your post about "Shipmate" lol.��

Let me guess: you were in Engineering?
Anyway to compile my mental book on this project, which would be more cost effective: have the rotor machined or the axle?
I realize that at my age this will be a one time deal, but thinking about whoever receives this later.

A retired member of the Goat Locker. thanx to you too shipmate...

[AussieinNC]

SuperChief...

During a commercial airline flight a Navy Chief was seated next to a young mother with a baby in arms. When her baby began crying during the descent for landing, the mother began nursing her infant as discreetly as possible. The Chief pretended not to notice and, upon debarking, he gallantly offered his assistance to help with the various baby-related articles. When the young mother expressed her gratitude, he responded, Gosh, that's a good looking baby...and he sure was hungry! Somewhat embarrassed, the mother explained that her pediatrician said breast feeding would help alleviate the pressure in the baby's ears. The Chief sadly shook his head, and in true Sailor fashion exclaimed........

And all these years I've been chewing gum.

[57larry]

I'm getting ready to put disc on my 68's rear. I bought the CPP kit

[snipescastle2]

Yep....Engineman a First Class, been on one "AR" repair ship-USS Ajax (AR6),
Three LSD's (Large Sitting Ducks) dock landing ships(Gator Freighter's) hauling the Marines around, one neutral duty station as Chief Engineer on torpedoe retrievers, one Guided Missile cruiser in Hawaii (USS CHOSIN- CG-65), one tour at Pearl Harbor Naval Shipyard, and one tour of Recruiting duty (Nebraska of all places)....oh, and eight months in Sasebo,Japan.
Sometimes I miss it, but I'm happy I retired ( I got passed over for E7 eight times, even knew eight master chiefs on the selection board, didn't do a damn thing for me) oh well.
What I paid out in taxes last year, is What an E7 makes in a whole year, so no regrets.....yeah, there's some resentment but that's the breaks.
Have a great evening!
Ben Smith

[snipescastle2]

It would be better to have the hub register turned down, than to open up the rotors. Do you have six lugs or five? There are Vendors here on the board that you can buy the correct five lug axles that already have the correct hub register for the rotors.you can always have your axles turned down, then have them redrilled for 5 on 5 bolt pattern (5x5" bolt circle) those axles are made of some hard material, so it might be just as well to buy a set of axles, instead of reworking a set of 40+ year old stockers. I had a machinist friend at my work redo mine.

Have a good one!
Ben

[SuperChief]

Were the Camaro 87-90 aluminum pbr rear calipers the same as 93-97 calipers to use with this kit?
I cannot find a definitive answer so I am parking it here to continue my how-to files.
(please disregard this...Captain Fab was gracious to answer my question by message) I probably should have waited...sorry

[snipescastle2]

I don't believe those will work for these brackets. If you google the calipers for the years you mentioned you can look at the images, I'm pretty sure they won't work.
Ben

[Benchracer]

snipescastle2,

Sorry to drag up an old thread...This is all great information! I found the CaptainFab brackets recently and all of the great reviews. Your added information on the parking brake cables and proportioning/equalization valve is very helpful.

Question for you regarding the proportioning valve change: What master cylinder/booster setup are you running? Mine has front disc/rear drum and NO booster. Can I still run that setup by changing the proportioning valve?

Originally Posted by snipescastle2

At first I used the factory equalization valve for disc front/drum rears, didn't have any braking problems at all, but I changed to a disc /disc valve later.
I'm very happy with how it stops, CaptainFab's brackets did the trick!
Have a good one!
Ben