Starting questions newbie

[dave`12]

Hello. I just bought a 1967 c10 with the 250 1bbl engine and the 4-speed. I'm afraid that I've never worked on a vehicle like this, I'm used to electronic ignitions and aftermarket Holly carbs. I love the truck, and want to keep it as stock as possible, so if you experts can help me get it running, I would be very thankful.

I will try to give you the info I have (only had the truck 1 day, and spent that getting the brakes to work).

The previous owner told me that the carb was rebuilt only a few months ago, it looks clean, that much I can see for sure. So I'm having a lot of trouble getting it to start, and it does not like to accelerate, especially from a start. I usually have to juke the gas quite a bit as I get moving to keep it from dying. In order to keep it running (at idle), I have to have the choke out a little (manual choke). The carb has only one vacuum port, and it's hooked up to the distributer (most likely the original, complete with points).
The truck will only start if you shoot it with a bunch of started fluid (when cold). When warm, things are much better for starting, almost normal. The truck does do ok cruising, as long as you stay soft on the throttle it seems to run smooth. But it ran out of steam at about 55mph. But then again, the choke was partially out (stupid me, didn’t realize it).

I'm thinking that probably the ignition is involved with the issues I'm having. And the accelerator pump? Anyway, not sure where to start, I don't want to just start turning screws and make things worse. I know nothing of setting points and dwell, and adjusting this carb. I only see one screw, so I'm thinking maybe the rebuild was not done right (float level, accelerator pump). Gonna check for vacuum leaks tomorrow and check the plugs, and the points for obvious problems, but I was hoping that someone could steer me to a walk though that might teach me how to check and set the ignition and carb. Heck, I don’t even know how to check the dwell!
I’m open to an HEI, but don’t think it would be wise to start bolting on stuff when it’s not running right, I will most likely just make things worse. Also, I haven’t checked the vacuum, compression, timing, etc. yet. A few years ago, when I sold my old Jeep CJ and bought a new Wrangler, I gave away my vacuum gauge, compression tester and timing light thinking I was done with old stuff, but alas, I have been bitten again, so it may take a few days to scrounge up the tools I need.

Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be thorough in explaining what is going on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[VetteVet]

Sort through these and maybe they will help.

http://www.google.com/custom?domains...D%3A1%3B&hl=en

[Mmorgan32]

Points and dwelling is an art form unless you know what you are doing. i had an old timer down the street from me help me do it and show me how when I was 16 but I couldn't tell you today how to set dwell. I know your points, dwell, timing, and carb setting have to all be set perfect. Pertronics makes a kit to remove the points and make it electric or you can switch to hei if you don't know anybody that can help you

[firedemon]

I also learned points from a greybeard long time ago it was explaned to me that dwell is just getting your points set dead perfect for what the motor really wants but you should be able to get close enough to get it running by the feeler guage method . most likely if its been sitting the points could have been open on high cam and due to condensation could have some muck on the contacts . used to use a points file and clean them up and reset the gap now points files are hard to come by so emery cloth will work . turn the crank pully by hand till the distributor is on high cam run the emery cloth on both sides till theyre shiny if theres big pits in them don't waste your time replace them . but if theyre good check the gap with feeler guage new points gap is like 16 to 18 or 19 used points are better a little tighter 14 to 16 . if your ignition is screwed you will never get the carb right so start there . cleaning them up is free replaceing them is less than ten bucks

[franken]

If someone worked on the carb ad it acts like you say, I'd look for a vacuum leak. You need to choke it to give it less air, which means its getting too much air, which leads to a vacuum leak.
Dwell is just a fancy way of setting point gap. Nothing magical there. Carefully set the gap, time and forget for a while. Until the carb is sorted I'd leave the ignition alone.
One thing, try running it w/ the hood open in the dark and look for blue sparks.
With it cold and the ignition off, look down the carb and crank the throttle open w/ your hand. See gas shooting from the accelerator pump squirters? If so, don't worry about them.