427 SBC & 4L80e build

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I'm replacing the engine in trans in my 72 K5 and decided on a 427 Stroker mated to a 4L80e.

I'm using a local shop (Gromm Racing Heads) to build the engine and another local guy to build the 4L80e.

The parts for the build we are going to use are the following:

Block: New Dart SHP 400 Block w/350 Mains. 4.125 Bore, 2 pc rear main
Crankshaft: Dart 4340 Forged for Internal Balance
Pistons: Mahle Forged Pistons
Connecting Rods: SCAT Forged
COMP Custom Camshaft: TBD...I know that it will be around .600 Max lift and the duration will be somewhere in the ball park of 243-258 @ .050. The Lobe separation is 110-111.

COMP Full roller stainless steel 1.6 ratio
(EDITED) AFR 220 CC Eliminator heads, 2.10/1.6, 65 CC
(EDITED) Edelbrock Super Vic
MSD Pro Billet Distributor
(EDITED) Holley Sniper
Headers: Kooks 1 7/8" stainless steel

The Command Center will let me use my existing electric fuel pump and I am building a return line that will go back to gas tank through the sending unit.

The 4L80e will be updated with the 32 spline input shaft to connect to the 205 TCASE and he is building a billet tq converter using a 2500 stall.

These arrived this week and my builder is going to get going on this for me.


Updates as of 8/1/18: So I changed a few things on this build setup. I'm not going to use the FiTech and instead going with the Holley Sniper. I also wont be running their command center 2. To run the EFI I am using a Boyd Welding EFI tank that comes with a in-tank Aeromotive fuel pump.

[Blazerowner]

I just put a 4l80 in my 72 K5. The output is 32 spline stock but you have to make sure it is the correct shaft. It has to be fully splined so you can cut it to adapt to the np205. I kept mine in the stock location. It put the engine forward a bit as it’s a long transmission.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Blazerowner

I just put a 4l80 in my 72 K5. The output is 32 spline stock but you have to make sure it is the correct shaft. It has to be fully splined so you can cut it to adapt to the np205. I kept mine in the stock location. It put the engine forward a bit as it’s a long transmission.

How do you like the 4L80e? Did you use a single or triple clutch?

The guy that's building has done this swap many of times on our Blazers. I just couldn't remember all the details he went over with me to make it work and support the TQ my engine is going to put out. I'm going to try my best to document the entire build so others can reference it if needed.

We're going to keep the engine in the stock location and move the tcase back and use a custom driveshaft.

[kwmech]

I've been looking at buying the same Dart block for my Suburban.......... going to follow this build. I know the casting is heavier, but any idea of the amount of bore left with the 4.125 hole?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by kwmech

I've been looking at buying the same Dart block for my Suburban.......... going to follow this build. I know the casting is heavier, but any idea of the amount of bore left with the 4.125 hole?

I'm going over there today and can check.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The block came in undersized @ 4.110. He's going to bore it .010 and hone the last .005

[kwmech]

My thought was to get the factory GM stroker crank which comes in at a 3.8 and have the block bore at 4.080. This gives you a 392 cu engine with more than enough room for an over bore later if needed. I was thinking about using the Dart heads also. Have you given any thought to the rod length and compression?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by kwmech

My thought was to get the factory GM stroker crank which comes in at a 3.8 and have the block bore at 4.080. This gives you a 392 cu engine with more than enough room for an over bore later if needed. I was thinking about using the Dart heads also. Have you given any thought to the rod length and compression?

We'll be using 6" connecting rods and comp will be around 10.5:1. I believe there is either .030 or .060 left in the bore after taking it to 4.125. A 4.155 would get you to 434.

[kwmech]

An issue I've had with a couple of factory 400 blocks. One block was 30 over and the other was 40. Even after having the block decked and the heads surfaced with compression over 10-1, I've had the head gaskets pop between the cylinders. Removing the cyl head and looking at the block, it looks like somebody took a hacksaw and cut a line down the cylinder walls. So that is why I'm considering the 80 over 350 bore with the 350 gasket. Might give it a bit more meat for sealing between. The 400 gaskets are pretty thin between the cylinders. And with the aluminum heads with the difference in expansion...

[DeadheadNM]

On board for the build...

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

So I found out the Dart 400 block can be bored up to 4.200. So the 4.125 will leave us .075 for future rebuilds.

Decking it tonight when the temp drops. It's been really hot these last few days. Tomorrow they'll do the internal balance and finish up the rest of the block work by the end of this week.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

With the big cam I'm going to have to convert to hydroboost. Got a set of brackets for the hydroboost from CaptainFab. The hydro unit came from Power Brake Exchange here in San Jose. pwrbrake.com

This particular unit came off a 90's P30 Chevy Step Van. For the MC I needed to step up to a 1 1/8" bore. Everything looks to line up perfectly.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by kwmech

An issue I've had with a couple of factory 400 blocks. One block was 30 over and the other was 40. Even after having the block decked and the heads surfaced with compression over 10-1, I've had the head gaskets pop between the cylinders. Removing the cyl head and looking at the block, it looks like somebody took a hacksaw and cut a line down the cylinder walls. So that is why I'm considering the 80 over 350 bore with the 350 gasket. Might give it a bit more meat for sealing between. The 400 gaskets are pretty thin between the cylinders. And with the aluminum heads with the difference in expansion...

The wall thickness with a 4.125 will be over .2500"... The specs on Darts webpage says that minimum thickness at 4.165 is .230" so even at 4.200 you're still at .190" and most OEM blocks are around .120 at .060 overbore. We'll be using a multi layer steel head gasket

[Captainfab]

Wow, that was quick. I shipped your order on Saturday.

[kwmech]

Any updates on this build? Inquiring minds-- ya know................

[SeventyOne]

Mike's too busy doing donuts to update this thread

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Not much of an update on the Engine other than it was painted. The Cam is arriving today and the short block will be assembled this week.

In the meantime, I've been tackling a couple of things I needed to get done before I'm ready for the engine & trans to go back in.

1. Added Auburn's E-Locker & 3.73 out back.

2. Converted to rear disc brakes using CaptainFab's brackets. The brackets fit like glove and I would highly recommend them to anyone considering this.

3. Boyd Welding EFI Stealth tank with side fill.

I've heard with this kit (along with other kits out there) that you might have to machine the axles. I called Moser and talked to their rep and he knew exactly what length I needed so a set of custom axles was ordered. They where only $100 more delivered to my door than if I was to order their direct fit from Summit. Not bad.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The eLocker from Auburn comes with the on/off switch and all the wiring you need. I drilled out the bottom of my ashtray and ran the wiring up through the bottom of my center console for clean look.

[1972 Jimmy]

Awesome build!! Very curious on how much braking improvement you get out of the rear discs. I need a landing strip to get my Jimmy to stop after I put in a big block.. lol
Eric

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by 1972 Jimmy

Awesome build!! Very curious on how much braking improvement you get out of the rear discs. I need a landing strip to get my Jimmy to stop after I put in a big block.. lol
Eric

Thanks Eric. I'm really hoping they make a difference. Since I am making two changes (Power Brakes to Hydro and rear Drum to Disc) It will be difficult to say which one made the most improvement.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

I got the transmission and Tcase back. We upgraded the Tcase input shaft to a heavy duty 32 spline. If you had a th400 the NP205's came stock with the 32 spline and if you had the TH350 yours came with the 27 spline. Not only will this make it stronger but needed to be done in order to mate it to the 4L80e.

I'm using a mock up block to figure out where the transmission/tcase will line up. I had to drill new holes for the mounting brackets. I had to move it back about 2 1/4".

[DeadheadNM]

Too cool! Did you have to update any of the parking brake cables for use with the rear disc brakes? What happened with the OEM fuel tank - available?

[Rickysnickers]

I have an engine question. Since that's an aftermarket block, are there steam holes in it or not? I'm not familiar w/where they would be located which is why I'm asking, in part. Thanks.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have an engine question. Since that's an aftermarket block, are there steam holes in it or not? I'm not familiar w/where they would be located which is why I'm asking, in part. Thanks.

The steam holes are similar to a sbc gen 1 350. They are not like the 400.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Too cool! Did you have to update any of the parking brake cables for use with the rear disc brakes? What happened with the OEM fuel tank - available?

Hey Pete - I lucked out on the parking cables. They just happen to be long enough. I ordered the PB cables through Wes and they came from Inline Tube. I couldn't tell you the actually length of the cables.

Not sure I understand your second question. After researching my options to run EFI, I felt the Boyd Welding tank was the best and less complicated option.

It comes EFI ready with an Aeromotive in tank pump, sending unit, return fitting and proper vent fitting. The filler neck extends right over the frame rail and sits a few inches under the truck bed. I had to add a new post filter to handle the PSI from the EFI. I mounted the filter inside the frame.

Other options would have been the following:

1. FiTechs Command Center - This acts as a remote fuel pump and it's pretty big in size ( not something you could really hide in the engine bay) It does allow you to run your existing fuel delivery system.

2. Drill into my tank and install Holley retrofit in-tank pump. I would've had to buy a new OEM tank just to do this. I guess I could have drilled into my current tank, but that doesn't sound sketchy at all... (the cost of this setup would have been almost just as much as going the route I did.