Transmission ??'s

[MASTERBrian]

1960 Chevy Suburban, going with a 350 that has been built to be a decently strong street motor. It is cammed, flat top pistons, 4 barrel carb and some head work. I'm told I have a Turbo 350 tranny, but haven't verified it yet. I'm hoping to pull the motor and tranny out within next week to complete the swap for the fresh motor.

The sole purpose of this truck is just to have fun, drive around town, etc. I won't be towing (with exception of maybe my 18' bass boat 30miles to lake and that's a big maybe). I've been told instead of rebuilding the turbo 350 that I should go with anywhere from a 200r4 to a 700r4.

The problem is swapping tranny's gets expensive real fast it appears and considering I really want this truck running so I can enjoy it, there's a fine point of spending money and looking at her sitting in project state vs. getting her on the road and having fun. That said, I'd rather spend a few hundred now vs a grand or more a year down the road because I regret my decision.

All tranny shops are around $600 for the Turbo 350 Rebuild, but if I step up to the 700r4, it seems I'm looking at $1500 +/-. I do like the idea of having OD, but is it really that important if main objective is around town. If I tow the boat, that lake is on a 55mph road the entire way, minus city driving. I'm also told go pre-82(83) IF I go to the 700r4. Salvage has one from '92 for $250. I'm told that'll work, but need an auto stall w/dummy (?) OR go with the pre '82 without the electronics and there's a kit they can throw on it for the lockup. I'm also told the driveshaft needs modified, the speedo modified (may be off because of T350 anyway?), shift linkages, I'm also told there is a throttle pressure cable to carb that would need installed AND if I want the low gear, I'll need to modify or switch out my steering column.

I'm not sure what year my column is, but I'm doubting it's a 1960 because I'm told 1960 had the horn on the column and I don't have a horn on the column. From what I have decided if I shift through the gears on the column, I seem to have P/R/1/2/3.

With that info, what advice does everyone have? Like I said I want this thing on the road and my goal is running by March, drive-able by May. I still have to go through the rear diff to see what's there, I will be checking on the front suspension to see what shape everything is in and using that to determine if I'm going with disc's up front now or later. Right now the brakes are totally non-existant, but that's another thread. Point is any tranny upgrade might be at the expensive of other things I'd like to do that are more safety oriented.

Also, if the 700r4 is the way to go, how do i know if I'm getting the correct year if I need the '82 and earlier. Maybe I'm being mis-led on what all is needed and maybe I can pick up the $250 700r4, which is guaranteed to run and worry about things like the steering column later. Problem is that $250 one is out of a '92 S10, if it's original to that truck.

[Ironangel]

Forget about the 700r4 for now at least. If you can pick up a fresh rebuilt 350 Turbo for $600 with at least a 90 day warrantee thats the way to go. Use the savings for the brakes and go for the overdrive tranny later. Nothing wrong with a 350 Turbo if it's built right. I tow 7000 lbs with one behind a 350 and another one behind a 425 HP 408 big block with no issues. If your worried about mileage you can always opt out the 60 and get a late model fuel injected 5 speed...For the Wifey!

[Bigdav160]

From what you wrote I would stay with the TH350.

In my Suburban I did install a 700R4. Love the overdrive. But unless you drive longer drives on the highway it is probably not worth the hassle. Besides it isn't better for towing. You don't want to tow in OD with a 700R4 or 200-4R.

The 200-4R is an easier install because it's physical dimensions are very similar to a TH350. The 700R4 is longer and a little stronger than the 200-4R.

The 200-4R started going out of production in the late 1980's. The 700R4 production started in '82 and improved almost every year until '92-'93 when it went to electronic shift.

Both the 700R4 and 200-4R use a cable hooked to the throttle plate to control shift timing and internal pressure. The geometry of the cable linkage is critical to proper function and longevity.

[MASTERBrian]

Thanks for the replies. One shop offered 2yr 24000 mile warranty and quoted $800 but that included torque converter. The other said $550 if I supply my own as I want a 2200rpm stall.

[americanmusc1e]

700r4 is only needed if you do long highway trips or put a lot of miles on it.

2mpg fuel economy improvement takes a lot of mileage to pay off. The reduced RPM driving a 4-hour trip is more worth it IMO. So if you don't drive a lot on the highway, keep the th350.

[MASTERBrian]

I've decided to stick with the T350. Now I just have to decide upon the shop I'm going to use.
Shop A wants about $1200 he mentions going with his Level 2 (strip/street shift kit) with an upgraded sprag(?), if I really want to be able to chirp the tires in 2nd, otherwise the level 1 shift kit which knocks price down about $100-$150. 2yr 24000 mile warranty. and that is with a stall converter of about 2000-2300 (maybe 2500 due to being a 'burb)
Shop B says he can do it with a nice shift kit and says stay with stock converter for street use. He wants right at $800. Forgot to ask about warranty.
Shop C says he can do it for $650 and just to let him know how tight I want it to shift and he'll stay with stock converter as well and again, warranty unknown.

All 3 shops are reputable and all can have back rather quickly. The question is which shop and how tight of shift should I get with a street ran car with the above setup? They ask, do I want to chirp tires in 2nd....well of course if you're asking, but at end of day, how often will that matter. What are they likely doing differently to justify the big price difference??

Also, if the cam makes power at 2200-6500rpm, am I going to be upset if i don't go with a mild torque converter? Summit/Jegs both have decent ones in that range for not much money that I'm told will work for my needs.

[crazy longhorn]

My thoughts....if you are running a 3.73 gear/28 or 29" tire,with your camshaft, a 2200-2400 stall should put a smile one your face! Longhorn