1989 Suburban "V Rig" Gets Cummins Power

[6lcummins]

The nice part of having a mini lathe for injectors:

[Dieselwrencher]

We've been working on this beast making progress. Here's a shot of one of the inner fender mounting tabs broken off I repaired.




Here are the front axle shock mounts completed and shocks installed.




Here are the sway bar mounts incorporated with the leaf spring retaining plates.




I had to take the rear drive shaft back again. When they built it, they didn't take into consideration the slip joint moving because it was almost bottomed out. They had to take out some to get proper travel. The front fits really nice. Too bad I broke a tap off in the rear pinion yoke. Someone had the hole cross threaded and I was trying to save it. I'm working on getting a different yoke now.





I had to cut a hole in the floor pan to get the 4wd shifter from the dodge to fit in here. I also had to modify the shifter mount to allow being bolted to a 47rh, since they never were designed to be there. I didn't to weld steel back in there because I didn't want the windshield and interior burnt by welding. So I made a cover out of aluminum, riveted and sealed it in. I will show pics of the modified shifter bracket later. I did get the shifter to come through the stock hole in the floor as well.

[Dieselwrencher]

I got a new A/C compressor and mounted it so I can get a belt for it. i also ran into another issue. I had planned on running the stock upper intake from the 93 Dodge truck. Wrong. The stock dodge elbow points straight into the chevy master cylinder and you can't get the charge pipe in there. So, I had to use a 2nd gen 12v intake horn. And again, another problem. They were designed for P-pump configurations, not VE rotary pump engines. The 2nd gen style has an ear coming off the intake bolting farther forward to help support the intake and on some providing a mounting point for the dip stick. I had to cut this part off to be able to bolt the intake on due to an injection line being rightin the way of this extra ear. No big deal. This intake will be getting polished as well before it's all done.






I also ran into another snafoo. Since we used the dodge steering box, the drag link is hairy. Can't use a chevy one due to them being too long. Can't find any DOM threaded or anyone to thread it for what I need to do. So I came up with this. I have to weld a gusset on each end still. The owner is going to run this until he switches over to cross over steering later.

[Dieselwrencher]

I'll take more pics this weekend. We got the LH hub bearings re packed and inspected, and all put together. Started putting exhaust hangers on the exhaust, trying to knock out things little by little. We got the radiator support bolted back on and have both fenders realigned and ready to go. Let me tell you, that was a PITA!

[Mattman2010]

Looking good man. That drag link looks a little scary. It looks if the drivers side drops down any that the joint on the steering box end is going to come to the end of its stroke. Or maybe even turning to full lock to the passenger side.

[1985-GMC]

This is what a friend on mine is doing: He got the dodge arm bored out to 1" so he could insert this sleeve: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles...r-customs.html then hes just gotta get it welded in, and I think he can use a stock chevy drag link.

[Dieselwrencher]

The problem with the chevy drag link is it is way too long to fit in there. Do you any place that has threaded DOM tubing for chevy tie rod ends?

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

This is what your work area will start to look like when you do one of these.

this is what my work area looks like when i am doing something like that





try ballistic for some DOM. they will do the machining for you in house i think if you call them and tell them what you want. i almost ordered the 7/8"-18 taps for my truck but i haven't got to the steering yet and i have not decided against Hiems anyhow. i wouldnt let that drag link out on the street. that is a heavy truck with a heavy engine and there will be a lot of shear force on the relatively small weld area. not to mention that the TRE is almost bottomed and any additional force from that hitting bottom will fatigue the weld area as well as try to pull the joint apart.

[1985-GMC]

Yeah one of the chevy tie rod ends is really long but think the easiest thing would be to get that one threaded the rest of the way and cut off what you don't need. Also if you want to thread some DOM tubing don't forget one side is left handed threads.

This site seems to have just about everything but it looks like it will get expensive.
http://extremecustomparts.com/c-1690...-m-tubing.html

[Mattman2010]

Why not look into weld in theaded inserts for Dom tubing?
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Mattman2010

Why not look into weld in theaded inserts for Dom tubing?
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First I have to find short enough tie rods that will work. I mainly made this one so I can drive it in and out of the shop. These things suck to move with no steering. I might try to use the dodge tie rod ends. They are relatively short. I'll be calling ballistic tomorrow to see if they can thread me some dom for these.

[1985-GMC]

Actually it looks like two of these might work...
http://extremecustomparts.com/c-6906...-gm-1-ton.html

[Mattman2010]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

First I have to find short enough tie rods that will work. I mainly made this one so I can drive it in and out of the shop. These things suck to move with no steering. I might try to use the dodge tie rod ends. They are relatively short. I'll be calling ballistic tomorrow to see if they can thread me some dom for these.

Isn't pushing the vehicle the funniest part of building them? If not I might be doing mine wrong.
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Mattman2010

Isn't pushing the vehicle the funniest part of building them? If not I might be doing mine wrong.
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Um, no. Haha

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 1985-GMC

Actually it looks like two of these might work...
http://extremecustomparts.com/c-6906...-gm-1-ton.html

Thanks for the link. I'll look into the short ones.

[Mattman2010]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Um, no. Haha

Interesting, so I should get mine running first?

[Dieselwrencher]

Or use a tractor. Pushing them gets old.

[Mattman2010]

Well if our luck with tractors keeps happening we may have a 560 that needs a new home hahaha
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[Mattman2010]

Oh yeah, a chain and a fourwheeler works wonders too!
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[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by Mattman2010

Well if our luck with tractors keeps happening we may have a 560 that needs a new home hahaha
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I'll come to you this time. I have that other 6 cylinder we spoke about.

[Dieselwrencher]

Making some good progress on the super burb. The front clip is officially back on and the bumper is on now too. This bumper makes a nice kneeling pad. I had to wash the ever living crap out of the intercooler core. It was full of red dirt! That stuff isn't from around here for sure. I bet I washed and blew it out 15 times until nothing else would come out of the core but clean water.







How do you guys think it's sitting here? High or low where?



The front wiring is all back in and so is the LH battery.



I got the RH charge air cooler pipe welded together. I'm working on the LH one now. I got the heater hoses hooked up as well. Still waiting on a fan hub and rear yoke before more big progress can be made.

[Dieselwrencher]

I got the LH intercooler tube made, and the owner has started eliminating wiring that's not needed any longer. I also built the air filter pipe, ans am working on gusseting the trans cross member. I'm still waiting on a fan hub and rear yoke so more big progress can be made.

[Dieselwrencher]

Tony, the owner of this beast, has been hard at work on the wiring, he polished the intake horn, and I've been finishing the trans cross member, I modified a trans dip stick and got it installed, and started remaking the shift rod mechanism. The trans temp sensor is installed in the trans pan, the boost gauge is hooked up, tach is hooked up, pyro is hooked up, just have to dril the manifold for it. We decided on what voltage regulater to use, and got a new glow plug controller to turn on the grid heater relays. It's getting pretty close now. Still waiting for a rear yoke and a fan hub from my parts guy in Ne. Man that guy is dragging his a** getting me the dang parts. I'll have to remember to return the favor for him.

[Mattman2010]

Building it upside down? Your pictures are always upside down. Looks good bud!
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[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks Matt. Hmm, the pics always are right side up for me. It's probably dang photobucket.