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Old 10-07-2018, 02:28 PM   #1
72Blazerod
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Location: Vancouver, B.C., Canada
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1987 Suburban Power Window Switch wiring HELP NEEDED!!!

Hi Guys,

I just bought a beater 1987 GMC Suburban as a cabin truck and none of the power windows work. I took of the driver's side door panel, and found this rat's nest of wiring carnage (See attached pics. I'd like to try to reconnect the wires and make my windows. Does anybody have a wiring diagrams, or better yet, photographs of where each colour wire goes, I'd appreciate it!!! Thanks for your help!
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1987 GMC Suburban 1/2 ton 4x4 (Beater)
1998 GMC Suburban 2500 4x4
1972 Olds 442 Convertible
2006 GMC 2500 Duramax Crew Cab (Sold)
1972 Blazer 4x4 (Sold)
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:32 PM   #2
LH Lead-Foot
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Re: 1987 Suburban Power Window Switch wiring HELP NEEDED!!!

I see you have had no responses to your post. The 87 service manual was paper and you have to own one to find the correct wiring colors and position. Even with that, the actual wires / switch connection is not shown. It is bone yard time!

Here's the good news, starting in 1986, GM started using the same color wires and switches like yours, that control 4 windows, door locks, etc., are going to be the same from car to truck. (Normally) Example, this switch is sold in the aftermarket and is pricy, but fits 1384 models from Impala to Jimmy.

You'l have to take some photos at you local bone yard to get what you need..and maybe a few parts with wires connected. Just do not place any splices inside the rubber boot in the door jamb. The flexing will cause failure. I would solder and use shrink tubing on all connections and pick up dielectric grease on the "Flat Type" connectors. Dielectric grease is sold way cheaper than parts stores, in your local home improvement store in the "Automotive" section. Also, any boat store as Yamaha, Honda and Mercruiser requires it. And they have large tubes very reasonable.

Good News;
Note; These type of switches are the best for repairing as I have done many over the years. Photos help at each step for reference, but it has metal tabs on the case housing (Or tab "A" into slot "B" if plastic), but this allows you to open the housing, remove the bottom connector plate and clean each copper snap terminal inside the switch. Use lite fine sand paper like 400 grit, clean with electrical terminal cleaner, hold in place with the dielectric grease, then re-assemble.

Just to let you know that switches can be fixed, even though your problem is outside the switch where rodents run.

Hope this helps. Down with rodents...in our vehicles!
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