Truck Wont Run

[nroden]

Also, later on when I upgrade to electronic should I get one of the Pertronix Ignitor Systems, just go and get HEI made for a later model (what years) , M&H Electric Fabricators Breakerless SE from,
http://www.gmcpauls.com/Electrical.htm,
or something else??

[BobbyK]

Just go stock G.M. HEI.It a good product and parts are plentyfull and cheap!

[jimfulco]

My old Chevys all have 2 wires. I think the yellow one goes to the starter solenoid & the other one is the resistor wire that juices up the coil.

[nroden]

After we got the new timing chainand gears back on and everything back together tried to start it. It popped real loud once. After that it would turn over but not seem to fire. Getting spark at plug #1.
Put the battery on the charger for the night with timer on 160 minutes.

[krue]

Make sure your not 180 out on your timing! Somehow I do it everytime I time something!

[nroden]

ttt

[71GMC_3/4T]

If you think you have the timing 180 out, just move all the plug wires 180 degrees, and see if it will start. If that works, take out the distributor and reinsert it 180 from where it is so the plug wires will line up right.
On the SB's I've worked on, the rotor points toward the left front of the engine when the timing mark is lined up at TDC. This is also the area where the valve rocker arms don't move when the crank shaft is rotated 1/4 turn in either direction. If the rockers move, you're 180 out. You can also determine this by putting your finger in the hole and feeling for the compression.

[68 Stepside]

Points are a LOT more finicky (sp) than HEI...you can get away with being a tooth off with an HEI. My experiences with points have all been the same, you have to have the distributor and cam teeth dead on, or it won't run....what I would do is rotate the plug wires one spot, and try to start it again, and repeat till it's running. then you can move the distributor back a few teeth (make an educated guess as to where you think it should go), put the plug wires back in the right spots, and try it again...

I know, it's clear as mud, but I understand it...LOL

[nroden]

OK. Have it back down to having the timing cover off.
I currently have the harmonic balancer lined up to where it is at 0.

Now where should the dots be on the gears. Should the top one have the dot at the bottom and the bottom one at the top so that they meet?

[nroden]

ttt

[krue]

Somebody will correct me if I am wrong!

The bottom gear (crank) dot to top and top gear (cam) to bottom. But here is the tricky part, the crank rotates twice for every one time the cam rotates.

So you have to have #1 piston Top Dead Center on COMPRESSION stroke (Both valves will be shut).

If you are not on compression stroke you will have it 180 (or half turn on camshaft) out.

I hope this helps!

[lukecp]

Here is how i get #1 to TDC on the compression stroke:

First, take out the #1 spark plug and put your finger over the hole. Have a friend turn over the motor with his arms, not the starter (it will also help to take out all the plugs so it will be easier to turn). If pressure builds up behind your finger and pushes it out, you are on the compression stroke. If not, keep turning it until it is on the compression stroke. Once you have it on the compression stroke, turn the crank until the mark on your harmonic balancer is at the TDC or 0 degree mark on the timing tab. Now, #1 will be at TDC on the compression stroke, and you can go from there.

[nroden]

Have had this thing on the compression stroke... it seems to still want to blow gas out the carb and not start. My brother is going to work on it Saturday. If we can't get it sometime next week it'll get hauled to shop to get worked on. This is aggrivating and almost depressing. Tried this thing about everyway possible now it seems.

[Long Knight]

I had the plastic cam sprocket. When I rebuilt it I noticed there was a crack between every tooth.

I don't think it matters if the crank is at tdc when lining up the cam...either way the cam will always line up correctly with the crank as long as you match up the dots.

If you want to keep the stock look (coil) and want something very reliable and cheap, go with a Pertronix Ignitor. It made all the difference in the world and was very simple to instal. I will never run points again on anything. Got mine from www.autoworks.com for $59.99+s&h. Good luck.

[BOBSJUNKY67SBSS]

nick take the valve covers off check for bent pushrods it will happen sometimes when the timing chain breaks good luck bob.

[nroden]

The truck is getting hauled off to get worked on tomorrow morning at 8 AM. I work a lot of hours next week (need the money) and so its worth it... but would never get time to get anything done on the truck.
I am really proffiting now driving a 83 Nissan Sentra with a 1.6L 4 cyl. Gets nearly 40 MPG. Plus just driving to work, not school which is about 5 miles in the opposite direction from home than work so not spending money on gas there.... but nothing is like the old truck!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all of your all's help and I will keep you updated as to what happens.

Pertronix is definitely in my future. ( this summer along with new shocks)

[nroden]

Got her started. Had to look at the valves, use finger in spark plug hole, and rotor to get it all worked out. The actual dots don't line out perfectly ( Only one way they can go on... think they must of messed up on the gears.. same size as the old, dots just don't matcho out). It ran well. Don't have it finished yet though. Decided to go ahead and change pan gasket of course (did it), discovered that there wasn't much of the motor mounts left, and took a look at that old thermostat (hadn't gone out yet in the last 2 years after being parked for 8 years but figured better take a look) and decided to replace it.

THANKS FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP
It was good to hear that familiar sound when it fired.

[krue]

Great to hear!

[BOBSJUNKY67SBSS]

good luck nick call sometime 229-0207 bob.