66 C10 Static Drop & Suspension Questions

[66 C10 383]

I've read and researched and researched and read almost to the point of confusing myself. Read "Make It Handle" twice
(yes the WHOLE thing ...) and the write up on Rob's JT truck among numerous other suspension and drop threads.


I've got a 66 C10 I'm getting ready to drop a fuel injected 383 and aftermarket T56 into. Before I do, I'd like to get
the biggest part of the front suspension sorted out. Here's my initial goals ...

Good handling street daily driver. Static drop with 2 1/2" drop spindles using the McGaughy's 13" 5 lug disc brakes.
Upgrading to the newer power steering parts from an 81 1/2 ton pickup. Tire & wheels will more than likely be 17" since
I already have these and I'm looking to run a 255-50-17 tire. I need some sidewall as I'll be on roads ranging from
gravel/dirt roads to interstate cruising and everything in between. I'd like it somewhere between 3" - 5" lowered in the
front. I do not want any ground clearance issues but as low as reasonable. About 1" above the top of the tire is close
to what I'm shooting for. I figure a lowered truck is still probably higher than a stock height car ... ? I'll also be
running full length headers as I can't find any shorty/mid length headers for a reasonable cost (like under $300 painted).
Anybody know of some?

I will be buying a rolling (disaster) 81 1/2 ton truck for parts. Some suspension parts, power steering, power brakes, etc.


Crossmember swap - There's no real reason to swap in the 81 crossmember just to run the newer 81 suspension and steering is there?
From what I've read, the 81 arms will bolt onto the 66 crossmember, correct? If I decide to section a crossmember for an added
1 1/2" drop then I will be using that 81 crossmember to section and then swap it in anyway.

Front coil springs - I'm not sure of what spring rate to look at and how much spring drop. I do know this, the Moog 6082 are
722 lbs/in, the Moog 6542 are 842 lbs/in, and the Moog 6102 are 1015 lbs/in. Which are too light and which are too heavy for my
intended application? How much to cut? If I do the 1 1/2" sectioned crossmember with the 2 1/2" spindles, then I'll only need
about 1" shorter on the springs for a total of 5". If I decide on not sectioning the crossmember, then I'd like about 1 1/2" shorter
spring for a total of 4". Another consideration I have is the level a-arm for better handling ... ball joint/a-arm bushing level.
I did learn that much from Rob's Make It Handle thread. I also don't want any part of the suspension below the bottom of the 17"
rim (scrub line I think it's called?) Anybody know the spring rates on the lowered springs currently available? Are they too
soft or too stiff? Looking for decent ride quality ...

Sway Bar - I'm looking for about a 1 1/4" swaybar for the front. Do the stock style 3/4 ton bars cause any more binding the way
they mount to the lower arm than the same bar that has the end links like the ECE style bars have? I've experienced suspension
binding on a previous car I had and I'd like to avoid any binding issues now. Is a 1 1/4" bar too big for what I'm planning?

For the rear I'm thinking a 2" block and about a 1" - 2" lowered spring. I'd really like to avoid a c notch if possible. I like
a bit of rake anyway ...


I think that's all for now. Sorry for being so long winded but I just don't have the funds to get something wrong and have to re-do
it. If I have any more questions, I'll add them in later ...

I've learned a lot from you guys and now it's time to start applying some of it to my truck. You've been a real inspiration !!!

Thanks

Doug

[lolife99]

Wow,... let me give your thread a good look.

EVERYONE spends there money where they want.
Some of the stuff in this post makes my point.
383, T56, Big brake kit.
But no shorty headers because they cost too much.
I think they are neccessary on a lowered truck.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 66 C10 383

Good handling street daily driver.

Static drop with 2 1/2" drop spindles using the McGaughy's 13" 5 lug disc brakes.
Good choice

Upgrading to the newer power steering parts from an 81 1/2 ton pickup.
What parts will you actually reuse?

Tire & wheels will more than likely be 17" since
I already have these and I'm looking to run a 255-50-17 tire.
I need some sidewall as I'll be on roads ranging from
gravel/dirt roads to interstate cruising and everything in between.

I'd like it somewhere between 3" - 5" lowered in the front.
I do not want any ground clearance issues but as low as reasonable.
About 1" above the top of the tire is close
to what I'm shooting for.
I figure a lowered truck is still probably higher than a stock height car ... ? I'll also be running full length headers as I can't find any shorty/mid length headers for a reasonable cost (like under $300 painted).
Anybody know of some?
Patriot mid-length headers on ebay. Maybe.
Another choice would be ram horns from Speedway Motors

I will be buying a rolling (disaster) 81 1/2 ton truck for parts.
Some suspension parts, power steering, power brakes, etc.

Crossmember swap - There's no real reason to swap in the 81 crossmember just to run the newer 81 suspension and steering is there?
No.

From what I've read, the 81 arms will bolt onto the 66 crossmember, correct?
Correct.


If I decide to section a crossmember for an added
1 1/2" drop then I will be using that 81 crossmember to section and then swap it in anyway.
I would rather run more spring drop, than a sectioned crossmember,
Just me.

Front coil springs - I'm not sure of what spring rate to look at and how much spring drop.
I do know this, the Moog 6082 are 722 lbs/in,
the Moog 6542 are 842 lbs/in,
and the Moog 6102 are 1015 lbs/in.
Which are too light and which are too heavy for my
intended application?
I would ask Rob spring rate questions.

How much to cut?
1/2 coil = 1" of drop, approximately.

If I do the 1 1/2" sectioned crossmember with the 2 1/2" spindles, then I'll only need about 1" shorter on the springs for a total of 5".
If I decide on not sectioning the crossmember, then I'd like about 1 1/2" shorter spring for a total of 4".
Another consideration I have is the level a-arm for better handling ... ball joint/a-arm bushing level.
I did learn that much from Rob's Make It Handle thread.
I also don't want any part of the suspension below the bottom of the 17"
rim (scrub line I think it's called?)
I'd stick with a 4" total front drop then.

Anybody know the spring rates on the lowered springs currently available?
I do not.

Are they too soft or too stiff? Looking for decent ride quality ...
I use drop springs from ECE and Belltech.
They are great for a street driven truck.


Sway Bar - I'm looking for about a 1 1/4" swaybar for the front. Do the stock style 3/4 ton bars cause any more binding the way
they mount to the lower arm than the same bar that has the end links like the ECE style bars have?
Stock bars work fine on a street truck.
You might look at Addco bars also.

I've experienced suspension binding on a previous car I had and I'd like to avoid any binding issues now.
Is a 1 1/4" bar too big for what I'm planning?
No.

For the rear I'm thinking a 2" block and about a 1" - 2" lowered spring.
I'd really like to avoid a c notch if possible.
I like a bit of rake anyway ...
I use an "all spring" drop if you are only going up to 4-5 inch of rear drop.
I use blocks to gain additional drop.
If you have to use a block with 17" wheels, don't go over 1.5".
20" wheels go 2" drop.
15" wheels go 1" block.

I think that's all for now.

I'll give your questions a shot since no one else is.
These are my opinions.
Plus I like a 4.5/6 total static drop for all my street trucks.
I just like the look better.

[duallyjams]

I just did a 2" block and a 3" drop spring in the rear with out c-notching the frame, the PO just heated the springs , I have not corrected the front yet.


I think you will have a problem with long tube headers with ground clearance.

[gimmy 64]

i have ece 2 1/2 dropped spindles and 2 in. spring on front. also 1 1/4 sway bar. looks good and handles very nice with the sway bar