2006 Suburban Questions

[Already Gone]

I am looking at buying a very loaded with nice low mileage ( 78,000 miles ) 2006 Burb with the 5.3 and 4L60E trans with3:42 gears and G80 factory posi. I decoded the options and it has 2 things I am not familiar with. The first is Code G69 and its called Auto Level Control, is this some kind of hydraulic or air bag system for keeping the suspension level under load. Has anyone had any problems with this set up? The other option is Code Z55 which says "Chassis Package Bi State Real Time Damping Chassis " and I don't have clue what this is. Lastly does anyone have one of these Burbs that you have put 150/175,000 miles on and if so how has it stood up. I am familiar with Burbs and have been driving them for 10 years now but all I've owned is a couple Squares and the 94 K1500 I have been driving since 2010. The seller wants lots of money for this Burb so I want to certain I will be able to drive it for 10 years without and major issues.

Did a little digging and found what Z55 Code is:

Autoride: indicated by the RPO code Z55. This suspension system uses electronic shocks in the front that automatically adjusts to road conditions, becoming stiffer or softer as necessary. The rear will use an electronically controlled self leveling air shock that is monitored by ride height sensors and inflated remotely from an on-board air compressor.

[68C15]

Z55 means you have very expensive shocks. Not slighty spendy, crazy spendy!

[95 S_Trucker]

The rear shocks will leak air at some point. Usually the compressor will run and run. If its bad enough, a service light will come on. I've replaced quite a few sets. Every once and a while a compressor will go out, but that's not very common.

Inspect the shock boots for any cracks or splits.

[hugger6933]

I built a Tahoe with the airbag junk on it and one of the tires blew out before the wreck[may have caused it] and it tore the air line and the bladder of the shock. You can send the shocks that are on it out for a rebuild for like 225 I think it was normally when the line or shock goes bad the compressor will run until it burns out. So if you hear it running for long periods of time take out the fuse to save that money. there are companies the name escapes me right this min that make their money replacing the factory stuff with replacement or stuff to do away with it and to trick the BCM in to thinking there is no problem with your ride. I looked all over to find some used stuff to help me fix my Tahoe, and found one place that had some stuff but never got any of it. I knocked off about a grand off the price to the guy who wanted it and he was just gonna mud ride in the 06 Tahoe anyway.[sad end for a loaded LT that was so pretty]just days after I sold that Tahoe I bought a Suburban for junk to get sheetmetal from it and sell the drive train, and when I got it home I found out it had the Air rid on it. Jim

[Already Gone]

I found this UTube video on changing out compressor and if I have ever seen "Planned Obsolescence" this is it. Where the compressor is located it will get all the crap from road hitting it constantly. why wouldn't GM put hit in a sealed box and use hard lines encased in rubber to protect the compressor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7LvtKnO9oQ

[72MARIO]

I wish I never bought our 2005 Tahoe I had a idea they were junk but didn't think it could be this bad. We bought it with 209000km now has 230000km Its a very clean truck krown oil sprayed from new there is no rust on the body or underside of body. In the last 6 months we have replaced both front wheel bearings at $200ea.

Fuel sending unit complete with fuel pump all the brake lines and it has 6 flex lines !!! rear backing plates parking brake assembly fuel tank straps broke when replacing the sending unit That bill was $2400. I had to change o2 sensors 2 at $90 ea. Rear heat module broke setting rear heat/ac to cold. That set me back $120. And today I noticed the aluminum antifreeze lines going to the rear are dripping yellow !

Yesterday on the way home something got loud in the Driveline either front diff or transfer case is on its way out. That's going to be $750-1800 depending on what it needs.
Its a nice truck to drive when it working....no better on fuel than my 1968 suburban..

Better have a surplus of cash on hand to keep it in working order.

[Already Gone]

Maybe I should keep my GMT400 1994 K1500 Burb with only 244,000 kms on it. There is nothing wrong with it and the biggest expense I've had in 4 1/2 years with it is the rear pinion bearing went out for 900.00 repair. The 2006 Burb I'm looking at only has 125,000 kms on it.

[72MARIO]

I am looking daily on kijiji for another rust free 1991 older suburban to replace the Tahoe. Not that the older trucks don't break there just a heck of a lot cheaper to fix. The luxury does come with a large price tag with the 2000 and newer trucks that's all. Maybe I just got a bad one......