47-55.1 Steering column height

[MidLifer]

My steering column seems low. When I reassembled the truck I bolted it into the frame in the existing holes. But as you can see there's at least a 1/2" gap where the collar mounts to the dash.

Should I stack washers between the steering box and the frame to raise it up? Or cut a shim out of steel stock? Or is there another way to get this to line up? I realize I need to put a rubber liner between the collar and the column but that will only add 1/8" or so.

[MiraclePieCo]

I'd just force it up and bolt it. There's enough flex in the floor and the dash to leverage it up into position, and the tension between all three components will help prevent rattles. Be sure to loosen all the other mounting bolts first and tighten them all in sequence gradually - that way they'll each absorb some of the misalignment. If you're really determined to add shims, some 3/4" round tube cut to length would look more factory than stacked washers.

[MidLifer]

I appreciate the advice. There is no moving that column, however. It will not budge a millimeter. Guess I'm looking at shims. I may get a piece of steel stock in the thickness I need and cut it to the outline of the steering box where it touches the frame.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

I appreciate the advice. There is no moving that column, however. It will not budge a millimeter. Guess I'm looking at shims. I may get a piece of steel stock in the thickness I need and cut it to the outline of the steering box where it touches the frame.

Depending on how original you want to keep the truck, aftermarket column drops are available in various lengths. They are made to do exactly what you're trying to accomplish. This one is available from Brothers:

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

I appreciate the advice. There is no moving that column, however. It will not budge a millimeter.

its because the column is permanently attached to the steering box, and moving it up or down at the dash would take it out of alignment.

did you rebuild the floor of your truck? did you put rubber between the front cab mount and the cab? did you change out your rear cab mounts? are the rear cab mounts sagging?

I would look from the side and see if your cab is maybe a little low in the rear. you could take the rear body mounts loose and use two jacks one on each side of the back of the cab, and lift the rear slightly. the gap might close up a little. if it doesnt, you might have your front floor 1/2" too low.

I hate those columns, by the way, I always end up cutting them in half because taking the cab off the frame is a gigantic pain.

[MidLifer]

Originally Posted by joedoh

its because the column is permanently attached to the steering box, and moving it up or down at the dash would take it out of alignment.

did you rebuild the floor of your truck? did you put rubber between the front cab mount and the cab? did you change out your rear cab mounts? are the rear cab mounts sagging?

I would look from the side and see if your cab is maybe a little low in the rear. you could take the rear body mounts loose and use two jacks one on each side of the back of the cab, and lift the rear slightly. the gap might close up a little. if it doesnt, you might have your front floor 1/2" too low.

I hate those columns, by the way, I always end up cutting them in half because taking the cab off the frame is a gigantic pain.

Good idea. I took this thing apart 5 years ago and then worked on it very part time until a few months ago when I put it back together using the original cab mounts. Nothing has been done to the floor or firewall. I'll check those rear mounts like you said. Thanks.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by MidLifer

Good idea. I took this thing apart 5 years ago and then worked on it very part time until a few months ago when I put it back together using the original cab mounts. Nothing has been done to the floor or firewall. I'll check those rear mounts like you said. Thanks.

I think i had it backwards, see if LOWERING the rear helps. or raise it really just get an idea of what action has what result, if you have the front on original mounts without any added material, its one of those things that should line up.

[mr48chev]

I think Joedoe nailed it. The cab isn't setting right on the frame.

The cab height off the frame Measurements are in the assembly manual if you have one.

I have them on my photobucket album but this computer isn't letting me log in right now.

Suggesting forcing the column into place to tighten the clamp is a horrible suggestion. That would cause the column and shaft to bend and then bind the steering up.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Suggesting forcing the column into place to tighten the clamp is a horrible suggestion. That would cause the column and shaft to bend and then bind the steering up.

honestly the dash would bend first, which would let the column meet the dash but wouldnt give any more seat room.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Suggesting forcing the column into place to tighten the clamp is a horrible suggestion. That would cause the column and shaft to bend and then bind the steering up.

Yikes, I didn't realize that this was the original column/box system, so my advice to just bend the components together wouldn't work at all for that. With a modern column with U-joints everything is free to move. This is why it's really hard to give advice on these forums without actually seeing the whole setup. But heck, the guy's avatar says "LS SWAP" so I just assumed this was a hot-rodded truck with conventional steering box. Oh well...sorry for the bad advice.

[mr48chev]

That is why one should always read the whole post and all the way though a thread before answering. I've gone back and corrected a comment a number of times when I got in too much of a hurry to answer.

[MidLifer]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Yikes, I didn't realize that this was the original column/box system, so my advice to just bend the components together wouldn't work at all for that. With a modern column with U-joints everything is free to move. This is why it's really hard to give advice on these forums without actually seeing the whole setup. But heck, the guy's avatar says "LS SWAP" so I just assumed this was a hot-rodded truck with conventional steering box. Oh well...sorry for the bad advice.

My avatar is the license plate from my other truck, a 1971 C10 with an LQ4/4L80e.

My 1950 3100 will be a very mild restomod- 235, T5 with open driveline and 3.73 rear out of a 1980 Camaro. Stock front end and leaf springs all around. Look will be stock. Mariner Blue paint job, factory seat, black bed wood. Will post some pics when I’m on my laptop.

[MidLifer]

Thanks for the tip to refer to the assembly manual. I did and the cab is within spec to the frame (spec is 1.86", mine is within .1" of that).

What I also noticed in the manual on a different page was that there is a designed-in gap between the top of the steering column collar and the curve of the dash, to accommodate a column shifter (my truck is floor-shift so I never thought of that). The manual states to insert washers as needed to fill the gap between the collar and the dash. So I guess it was much ado about nothing, and "RTFM" next time!

[joedoh]

I never would have guessed! most of the grain trucks I start with have floor shifters, I have never noticed spacers or washers, maybe the floor shift models have a taller column mount?

edit: added a picture of a floor shift truck for comparison.

[torchlight]

You point out something that I’ve always found interesting. I think a lot of folks who take these trucks apart to rebuild them and put them back together end up thinking that the “notch” in the dash between the two gauges is for the steering column to nest up into - but as you’ve accurately pointed out here, it’s actually for the column shifter linkage! Which is why you see the notch is not actually centered between the two gauges...