What about converting to electric windows?

[wibas]

On my 1952 GMC I'm using 1948 doors with 1 piece door glass. I don't have any window channels yet or any window mechs. What can you guys tell me about installing electric windows in this application? I have never had any experience with them. Also what about door poppers? Help if you can . Thanks.

[Thadious]

Going down this route myself since I converted my doors to one piece windows.

I was looking at using the track from a Mercury villager (fairly simple and easy to wire) but there are a ton of kits out there to do it. There are those that come with their own track and ones that basically wind the crank for you (personally, I'd go with the track version).

The only thing that I noticed with the installs is there will always be some custom fitting with a universal kit (one size does NOT fit all... big surprise). I've even seen places where you get get narrower channels for the glass to slide in and omit the outer rim (thinking that one still myself) and looks like the glass may slide easier in that, but you'd have to polish the outside edge since most are rough.

With the mounting of everything, you have to decide whether or not you want to see all the mounting hardware on your door, or go with a door skin to cover it all up (decided for the latter myself).

As for door poppers, I picked up a set from Protocol with 35 lb soleniods to work with my YJ bearclaws.

Nothing's been installed yet but I'll be there soon.

Cheers,
Ted.

[panelrodder81]

I happened on the regulators and motor sets from a 2002 1/2 Ford Explorer. The regulators have the same number of teeth on them and with just cutting and welding the motor mount part onto the existing regulators you'd be good to go. I haven't taken the time to do this yet so it is more or less theoretical/observation.

[floridasteve]

Reading the post I thought that I would chime in with my 2 cents for what it.s worth.

1. With bear claw latches you don't need to install poppers as the door will "kick" when the latch is engaged, same as the popper would do with out the bear claw installed.
2. If you go without the window frame on your original window you can't polish the edge you need to get new glass cut larger with the polished edge to fill the gap of the frame.
3. If you go with new glass that is larger to fill the gap, you need to use the 1/4 inch channel felt for the window to ride in. The original felts are larger to accommodate the larger window frame.
4. The door will show the bolts used to mount the hardware.

I used a company Vintage Glass out of the Atlanta area for my glass and channels. They have the smoked glass corner windows for my 5 window. Not the cheapest company but got a show price and the tinted corner windows were worth the price not to look bad with seam lines from having tint applied later. It is legal down here in Florida.

I hope this helps.

[wibas]

How about which after market electric windows to use? I never thought about using side window glass without the chrome edging.

[youngrodder]

I used electric windows from Nu-relics
http://www.nu-relics.com/

They bolt into the door in the same factory location as the OEM manual window regulators. They are not cheap but made very well and specifically for our trucks.

I also went the route of 1/4" smooth side glass (no metal trim). The key is if you do away with the metal trim around the glass make sure you get C-channel that works with the narrower 1/4" glass. The stock C-channel will not work.

Good luck
Marc

[wibas]

You were right as far as spendy but they look like a direct fit and come complete.

[Scottshotrods]

Speciality power windows the best kit on the market spendy but work excellent.
Justin
www.scottshotrods.com