BREAKAGE: Wanna know what causes this?

[1rocky]

IMO, just repair what is needed, keep the original axle in there, members here will have parts for sale, very common axle Dana 44.

1Rocky

[VA72C10]

any updates on the insurance?

[Mil-Spec]

Alright a little update. I was able to find a complete 3/4 ton 10 bolt out of a 78 for $50 bucks. It's dry on the outside and wet on the inside and is the same gear ratio as my original axle (GM 3988517 11 41 1 78). So I plan to disassemble and inspect.

As for the Insurance, after not hearing anything from them, I called repeatedly to multiple extensions until finally an agent of their's called me back. I was told that they are still in the Liabilty Investigation stage. Basically trying to ascertain who is to blame or what percentage of blame each involved party gets. I this case I think it should pretty straight forward considering I was laying bed at the time. They stated the main reason it's taking so long is that their policy holder involved in the accident isn't answering her phone nor is she returning their calls. So asked where that leaves me and they stated that they base their decision on the police report if nothing else. I said no problem I'll fax you my copy right now. That was last week so i'm gonna call tomorrow and see where things are and see if I can motivate them.

Here are some pics of the axle. Seals seem good, Hubs spin freely, Locks engage, Ball joints feel firm. I have noticed what seems like an abnormal amount of slop between the hubs and the pinion when turning the pinion. But I have no reference of what is considered normal. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

[scottsdaleowner75]

I have had similar responses from insurance company on a hit and run. I started mentioning lawyer and lawsuit and my calls got answered and returned much quicker. I also phoned the gal who hit me directly and informed her i was going to file lawsuit against her and she stated she has nothing to take. Since my background check showed she did have assets and was a homeowner i knew she was full of it. She said she had her home on the market and was moving to another state for a new job and that was the reason she was out "celebrating". I told her thanks for the story but this is business and i have no heart while in business then promptly placed a lein against her property. When it sold i got my money and then some...eventually. It sucks you have to be this way with people and they just cant do the right thing when they wrong you but this is the way it is these days.

[75gmc454]

The 41 and 11 are the key numbers. That means 41 teeth on the ring gear and 11 teeth on the pinion gear. Which is a 3.73 ratio.

The original axle ha 41 and 10 on it. It is 41 teeth on the ring gear and 10 teeth on the pinion. That is a 4.10 ratio. They are not the same.

[propanemudtruck]

Originally Posted by 75gmc454

The 41 and 11 are the key numbers. That means 41 teeth on the ring gear and 11 teeth on the pinion gear. Which is a 3.73 ratio.

The original axle ha 41 and 10 on it. It is 41 teeth on the ring gear and 10 teeth on the pinion. That is a 4.10 ratio. They are not the same.

If you look at the stamp again, the first set of picture is 11 41 10 78
the second set is 11 41 1 78. broken down it's pinion gear count, ring gear count, month, year. I'd say he has a matched set there.

[bigbadchev72]

Originally Posted by propanemudtruck

If you look at the stamp again, the first set of picture is 11 41 10 78
the second set is 11 41 1 78. broken down it's pinion gear count, ring gear count, month, year. I'd say he has a matched set there.

Sorry, But that is incorrect. 75gmc4x4 is right. Your replacement front end is 3.73 ratio and your old one was 4.10s.

You can still install the front end to get you by for now, but will need to regear one of the axles or find one that matches the front or rear.

If you plan to lift it I would keep the 4.10s as it will keep your mileage in check.

If you plan to keep it as it is now I would go with the 3.73s to get your rpms down a little while cruising, you will notice a loss in power as in seat of your pants feeling, it wont be quite as fast to get up to speed.

DO NOT USE YOUR 4X4 with your mismatched axles as it will bind up your transfercase and totally trash it, your rear will spin faster than the front and bind up the case.

[Mil-Spec]

OK OK OK I think people are getting wrap around the axle

1st axle reads: GM 3988517 11 41 10 78
2nd axle reads: GM 3988517 11 41 1 78

As I understand it the numbers break down as such:

Manufacturer: GM
Part Number: 3988517
Pinion Gear Tooth Count: 11
Ring Gear Tooth Count: 41
Date Code(MM,YY): [10, 78 = October 1978] [ 1, 78 = January 1978]

The date of manufacture on my 1979 Suburban is also 10, 78 as indicated by the door post sticker, so that would seem to corroborate the validity of the date code stamped on the ring gear.

Now with both gear sets having the same Part Number let alone the same tooth count I feel fairly confident in saying that they are same identical ratio.

and the Gear Ratio = 41/11 = 3.727272727...etc..etc Which rounds up to 3.73

Sound about right?

[bigbadchev72]

Originally Posted by Mil-Spec

OK OK OK I think people are getting wrap around the axle

1st axle reads: GM 3988517 11 41 10 78
2nd axle reads: GM 3988517 11 41 1 78

As I understand it the numbers break down as such:

Manufacturer: GM
Part Number: 3988517
Pinion Gear Tooth Count: 11
Ring Gear Tooth Count: 41
Date Code(MM,YY): [10, 78 = October 1978] [ 1, 78 = January 1978]

The date of manufacture on my 1979 Suburban is also 10, 78 as indicated by the door post sticker, so that would seem to corroborate the validity of the date code stamped on the ring gear.

Now with both gear sets having the same Part Number let alone the same tooth count I feel fairly confident in saying that they are same identical ratio.

and the Gear Ratio = 41/11 = 3.727272727...etc..etc Which rounds up to 3.73

Sound about right?

My dislexia owns me, If the tooth count is the same then go for it.

[Mil-Spec]

Alright I'm deep in the throws of swapping out the damaged front axle and I plan on installing my 4 inch RC lift at the same time.

Newb Question: Is the sway bar no longer used when lifting a vehicle?

RC's instructions leave much to be desired. I don't see any links in the kit, so do most guys just remove the sway bar to help free up the suspension's travel?

Thanks

[raycow]

Originally Posted by Mil-Spec

do most guys just remove the sway bar to help free up the suspension's travel?

It depends. When you are driving on the street you need the anti-sway bar even more than you do at stock height. If the truck is for off-road only, you can leave it off.

Ray

[scottsdaleowner75]

Look into off road designs sway bar disconnect kit. Gives you the best of both worlds. Easy to install and will allow you to run the sway bar on the street. Beware the Rough Country kits ride STIFF. Also while you are at it replace the outer tie rod ends and both links from the steering arm and pitman arm. Then align. This will give you the best steering available with the stock setup. Also check the rag joint and steering shaft. If you can google XJ steering shaft upgrade. Great upgrade.

[Mil-Spec]

Thanks guys for all the good suggestions. I'm still looking into options for swaybar.

Well I've just about go the axle and front suspension dropped. Any suggestions of how best to popped the leaf spring bolts out? The nuts came off easy, but the bolts themselves seem pretty well bonded to the bushings. Beat'm out with a drive? Soak'm in penetrating fluid? Any tips?

Thanks

[scottsdaleowner75]

Soak in PB blaster or similar and then a BFH. I would use greaseable bolts like the ones on diy4x has.

[Altec]

I always dread pulling bolts from bushing.

Every experience I have had wasn't pretty. Like Scotty said, Blaster, and a BFH is the first step. I have used a impact, and spun the bolt while hitting the threaded end with a hammer to get them out. I don't recommend this if you don't have to. It is hard on your tools. But you can use a impact to help knock the bolt loose. Give it a go with a 1/2" impact, then hit it with a hammer. Enough Blaster, and this method works most of the time. Just takes time.


Last resort, and assuming you don't need the old bushings, you can use heat. Just have something to put the fire out...

[Mil-Spec]

Happy New Year ya'lll

Finally getting back to my axle swap. Got the axle out from under the truck. Just got done beating the off the steering arm off.

My question here is: I noticed when removing the springs from the original axle that there was these "White plastic" material that sandwiched the spring packs to the axle housing and the sway bar mount. The plastic pieces are flat and maybe 3 x 6. What are they (anti-squeak?)? And are they necessary? As these originals look toast and my lift kit doesn't appear to have replacements. Would a parts store carry them?

Thanks

[71swb4x4]

No idea on the squeakers, but how did the insurance side of things work out? Did they make things right with you?

[Mil-Spec]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

No idea on the squeakers, but how did the insurance side of things work out? Did they make things right with you?

I'm pleased with the pay out. One of the board members here (old Rusty C10) gave me some insight into the insurance claim business. Which was extremely helpful when dealing with the first Ins. company as they only wanted to low ball me. They did that on several of they're offers and I kept turning them down and explained the merits of my truck. Eventually they came back with an offer that was more than I was expecting. So stubbornness paid off. The 2nd Ins. Company from the most recent accident was more reputable and required less haggling.

So far my truck has paid for itself and made money on top of that.

Here are some pics from yesterday: If you look at the 2nd pic down you will see one of the 3x6 white plastic pieces on top of the passenger side spring. Sorry forgot to take a close up pic.

Any help would be much appreciated.





Original axle and a close up of the broken knuckle

[msgross]

teflon pads.. I would go to my local spring shop to find some.. I painted my springs with urethane paint so I don't plan to use them... if you are bare metal on bare metal then I would use something to prevent squeaking..

http://www.jackit.com/springs/teflon_wrpads.htm

[Mil-Spec]

Originally Posted by msgross

teflon pads.. I would go to my local spring shop to find some.. I painted my springs with urethane paint so I don't plan to use them... if you are bare metal on bare metal then I would use something to prevent squeaking..

http://www.jackit.com/springs/teflon_wrpads.htm

Thanks Mike.

I figured they were something to do with metal on metal contact.

Two questions:

1. How do the ones with "nub" in your link work, do you remove the it before installation?
My factory ones simply have a hole for the leaf spring locating pin.

2. What Urethane paint did you use?