Inspected Condition `\ : - ( Truck

[Port&PolishMan]

First Off it was Abused - it was Over Loaded several times ..
All the Axle Bump Stop are Busted Hardware and All in some cases .

Second 2 Brake Lines are Worn from Rubbing on Items 1 pretty Bad .

Third the so called New Power steering all of It's Lines have Chucks out and Sliced ! ( More Sharp Metal Hole Passing )

Forth : The Bearings in the Big Axle are Damaged on Passenger side .

Fifth : Duals Twisted back on Passenger side .375 .400 probably
when that when Axle Stop got Broken ..

Old Owner - Yeah Drive it Home ..

Oil coming from Motor - Dip Stick - I'm Hoping only there , but to much ..

Whining Noise after second or third Start : Hoping it's only Starter Hanging some .. Not a Bearing Spinning ..

So called all new Tires - really only on 4 out of 6 - Must be Why the Duals weren't Balanced ..

Coasted down a Hill higher Speed then Motor could take Truck
WOW - Vibrations Bad ! ( Not Tires , Not Hopping , But Heavy Metal type Noise )

Either He would have Crashed Truck - Do to - Power Steering Failure ,
Brake Failure , Or a Seized Bearing and any or all of the above
happening at Once . .

someone Worked the Dog Poop out of Truck - then Flip it before
I get stuck Fixing all the BS or I Wreck it ..

I THINK I HAVE SAVED THIS VEHICLE FROM AN UNTIMELY DEATH !

[Port&PolishMan]

Guess I'm going to start on the Axle first , and Checking or Replacing Bearings
at same time ..

Proper Location is Know - Temporary Fix is working .
I just have to get Axle Relocated there for Good . .

Bearings ?

[dsraven]

if you are taking the rear axle u bolts off for relocation and possibly also replacing/bleeding the brakes due to line replacement and doing a wheel bearing dissassemble and check plus welding the spring pad back on at the crack then why not just take the whole axle out from under the truck, take the wheel bearing hubs off and check the housing for straight before you spend money on something that is bent. if bent you can look for another axle from the same style of truck or upgrade to a newer axle with better gearing for you. there may be some wheel fitment issues with a newer axle, I mean the rear axle may have different wheels than the front, but in the end you have spent money on an upgrade instead of on a stop gap and you would get better gearing. if the stock axle is bent then it would require the axle to be straightened at a machine shop which will cost you cash and they may want it totally dissassembled and cleaned before they put it on their equipement.
just a thought

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you are taking the rear axle u bolts off for relocation and possibly also replacing/bleeding the brakes due to line replacement and doing a wheel bearing dissassemble and check plus welding the spring pad back on at the crack then why not just take the whole axle out from under the truck, take the wheel bearing hubs off and check the housing for straight before you spend money on something that is bent. if bent you can look for another axle from the same style of truck or upgrade to a newer axle with better gearing for you. there may be some wheel fitment issues with a newer axle, I mean the rear axle may have different wheels than the front, but in the end you have spent money on an upgrade instead of on a stop gap and you would get better gearing. if the stock axle is bent then it would require the axle to be straightened at a machine shop which will cost you cash and they may want it totally dissassembled and cleaned before they put it on their equipment.
just a thought

Sorry about the Rant - looks like a lot before Road Worthy !

I'll Check Axle Housing with Lazer and Try to check for Run Out with Inspection Set Up .. Sound I heard Rolling Down Hill @ 55Mph
( Heavy Metal ) to Me was a Bearing , but sure could be Axle I have never heard ( Sound ) of or seen one of those Bent . .

Even Thou I had Clutch in - Rear Gear would have been Spinning the Driveshaft very High RPM - now that I sit here and type this Thinking about it - check center Drive shaft Mount etc. also ..

The Oil all around Motor pushing out 5- different places at least .
Hoping it's Only a Poorly Vented Block ?_? ( No PVC )

I Dropped the Filter and Added some Zinc Additive - figuring Old Filter
might be partially Plugged - as - Oil Pressure is Very High 60 PSI . ( Most Likely By_Passing )
Motor rebuild so Informed - so might be Honings etc.
( 3350 ) Miles - Possible Rings STILL NOT Seated ) ?_?

Oil Very Black coming from Filter - didn't look Bad in Crank Case ? THOU .

Looking for Vented Valve Covers - with - PVC Caps included , then I'll try and get those Hooked to the Carb. Spacer - I Guess ?_?

Just a Small Oil Fill Cap - is Partially Vented ( Stuffed ) , but No Vac. Line on it .

*Engine Builders - High Oil Pressure 50 Hot 65+ Cold to high to read .
Special Filters and Special Venting Needed .. ???

Thank You All
Dan

[dsraven]

doesn't the engine have a big vent tube running out the bottom, like a piece of open tubing?

[dsraven]

if you were coasting down the hill with the clutch in the issue with noise could be the clutch disc spinning at warp 9 and making noise or disintegrating. does the clutch feel normal?
could also be the centre bearing
could be over revved engine causing the oil leakage. maybe clean it off and start from scratch with where the leak originates

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you were coasting down the hill with the clutch in the issue with noise could be the clutch disc spinning at warp 9 and making noise or disintegrating. does the clutch feel normal?
could also be the centre bearing
could be over revved engine causing the oil leakage. maybe clean it off and start from scratch with where the leak originates

No Over Revving - By anyone Here !
Would have to be the Builder ..

Clutch was Dis engaged . .

Sound came from Rear of Vehicle . . Lower Heavy Vib could have
been the Dual's

Oil is coming out of Dip stick O-Ring to Pan area .
Valve Covers - both sides gasket Area .
1 cly. number 1 intake Valley .
Noticed it getting worst - I First Thought - DAY 1 - Due to rebuild and some Blow By .. but 3000 miles should be seated - I have only put like
27 miles ..

[Dan in Pasadena]

Do you realize you havent even told us what kind of truck you're talking about? TF or AD? Year? Engine and trans, etc etc?

[dsraven]

it might be an idea to stick with one thread on your truck. that way guys will be able to go back and see what you have there. maybe start a new thread with some pics and stuff. there are some pretty smart dudes onhere that can give troubleshooting tips etc but if they don't know the whole story then you may not get the correct responses.
just a thought

[Port&PolishMan]

Yes, I Agree I should have Relisted the Truck :
3800 2 Door Cab 1 Ton with PTO
4 Speed Stock which is the Granny Gear and 3 Speeds.
Drum Brakes & Floor Parking Brake
Duals 19.5 Rims with 4.75 Hub Bore . 225/70's

V8 Chevy motor - Mixed Yr. GM Block 79 / 72 Heads . . Bored etc..
Rebuilt : Isky 460 Lift RV Cam
No - PVC
No Breathers on Stamped Valve Covers .
Oil Fill - through - Elder-Brock = might offer small amount breathing ( Stuffed )
Cam Driven Fuel Pump .
Manual Choke

Already looking @ More Breathing from Valve Covers - I Hope will be a Cure . . PVC & Line going to Carb.

Motor has approx 3040 miles since rebuild - of Which I just Tested only 27 Miles . .Carefully looking for Items - as
I didn't know Truck enough to be Driven any Farther. 3 Short Trip to get everything Warmed Up ..

All the Above is the Short List : It is Not the Full Audit !

[dsraven]

without seeing a pic of the engine i assume it should be similar to the '70's era stuff. it would have a pcv air filter tucked inside the engine air filter housing and held with a sheet metal C clip. attached to that with a short rubber hose would be a metal tube that pushes into the grommet in the (driver's side?) valve cover. on the other valve cover will be a pcv valve that pushs into a rubber grommet and is connected to engine vacuum. it is supposed to draw a metered amount of air from inside the engine through the pcv valve and if there are not enough fumes or blow by inside the engine then the fresh air supply from the air filter housing will supplement to keep up with the demand from the pcv valve. that way a fresh supply of air is readily available to purge fumes from the engine internals. sometimes, if too much blowby in the engine or the pcv valve gets plugged or the vacuum line gets compromised etc, the air filter will fill with oil because of back pressure/flow down the "clean air" line. a compression test and a cylinder leakdown test would be done after a check of the pcv system proves that system is not at fault.
also, check the viscosity of the engine oil. if it is diluted with fuel, which can happen after sitting for awhile or if there are carb issues, the oil will find it's way out of every crack and cranny. if it smells like fuel change it out before you start the engine again. oil pans and valve covers have been blown off from explosions inside the engine caused by fuel contaminated oil.

post up some pics of the engine and what it looks like before a wash, if possible. are the valve covers aftermarket? if so, most will have a knock out plug you can see from the backside for the pcv stuff. maybe the PO installed early covers for the stock look but that system used an oil filler tube in the front of ther intake manifold with a push on vented lid. the engine had a draft tube attached at the rear ( a lot were plugged by owners who upgraded the look to newer style) and the tube went down to the outside of the engine and ended around the level of the bottom of the oil pan. if you have old covers without holes and a new style intake without an oil filler/vent then there is no ventilation to speak of and it will push oil out where ever it finds a likely spot. maybe your problem?

[Port&PolishMan]

Truck is 1954 as Stated in a few Places - I - should have Added that again .
1979 Gm Block SUV with 1972 ish Heads .. so Yes that Era ..

Here's a Pic of the Only Vent the Engine has I Just Pulled it Off to Test
but , Started Pouring Rain .

[IMG][/IMG]

As You all able to see 4 small Holes and a Mountain of SS Wool . .Brillo

I looked into Punching a Hole in Current Valve Cover and Adding one of those Adapters .. then go through the Base of Carburetor's Spacer ..

I have Elected to Go with slightly Better Covers - which will have Built in PVC - Unit and Filter - Rebuild able for Cleaning , with Breather on other Cover to Balance Air ..

What I was Hoping to Hear : Technical Input on Amount of Required Air Moment - Cubic Liters or Amount Hg -
Vacuum for Idle and Cruise .. . for a 355 Cu. In.

[dsraven]

maybe just get another set of valve covers from a '70's era engine and install the breather filter and pcv valve from that size of engine. the pvc is calibrated for the cubic displacement and then there may be one available for high mileage engines which would have more blow by. if that doesn't cure it then do the compression test, cyl leakdown test and go from there. maybe the engine guy broke a ring upon installing the pistons or maybe the rebuild was a can of paint. rebuilt means a lot of different things to different people.

[Port&PolishMan]

Originally Posted by dsraven

maybe just get another set of valve covers from a '70's era engine and install the breather filter and pcv valve from that size of engine. the pvc is calibrated for the cubic displacement and then there may be one available for high mileage engines which would have more blow by. if that doesn't cure it then do the compression test, cyl leakdown test and go from there. maybe the engine guy broke a ring upon installing the pistons or maybe the rebuild was a can of paint. rebuilt means a lot of different things to different people.

Guy swore up & Down , Bored , New Crank Caps all Re_Tq. Checked
Decked etc.

It's Bored .060 over He say .. RV Cam etc.
Elderbrock - Carburetor to match - it's in Writing .. so . . . .

Yes, I agree that would be Cheaper - and I could Clean those all up in 3 hrs. and Paint them .. after I go and Find them 1 - 2 Hrs. , and then Go get them . 1 Hr. = 5-6 hrs.

I have at least 3 other larger Items on My Plate .

Hoping that more Breathing & PVC will do the Trick .
Bumped into a Guy today at the Parts Place - 56 Chevy all Original Steel
with some Body work being done , but Nice Looking over condition .
He had all most the same Items I'm Buying - on Sale 50% Off Free
Shipping - I then called them as they are located Near My Old USAF Base
Guy Through in all the Grommets - that - weren't part of the Sale . .
Feels Like Christmas - Now - If it just works - I really don't want to Go
Down the Other Road . .