235 won’t start

[Isaiah92260]

Can’t figure out why my motor only runs when it wants too. Yesterday I did the points. Condenser, spark plugs & coil. Couldn’t get it to start until I sprayed enough Ether down the barrel, then got it to idle for 20 minuets and then adjusted the carb. Shut it off a couple times and it turned on fine...... so then I took it to the gas station and then I could get it to start. A few sprays of Ether and she started back up again.

Now this morning, I tried starting it, and got nothing again.

Can anyone shine some light that has knowledge on these motors, I’m learning as I go.

[geezer#99]

Did you move or remove the distributor when you put the points in?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you move or remove the distributor when you put the points in?

No I didn’t mess with the distributor. I did notice that I could turn it counter clockwise and advance it while it was running, when I did that, I could see a ride and the base of the distributor engaging the vacuum.

I loosened a 1/2 inch bolt on the base of the distributor to advance the time but it wasn’t budging. Strange to me.

[Isaiah92260]

I also saw that there was this weird dial in the back of the distributor facing towards the flywheel side

[geezer#99]

You’re making no sense!
Take a pic.
What did you set the point gap at?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You’re making no sense!
Take a pic.
What did you set the point gap at?

I’ll have a picture soon.
I set the gap at .019 like I read in the shop Manuel for 1961

[68gmsee]

You mentioned starting it with a shot of ether. Did it run okay then? Also, will it run if you pour a small amount of gasoline down the carb throat.

Next question: Do you have a timing light?

If not see if you can borrow one. You need to start at the beginning and go from there. Once you do that you can proceed to the other possible problems like carb or fuel flow.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You’re making no sense!
Take a pic.
What did you set the point gap at?

My distributor

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

You mentioned starting it with a shot of ether. Did it run okay then? Also, will it run if you pour a small amount of gasoline down the carb throat.

Next question: Do you have a timing light?

If not see if you can borrow one. You need to start at the beginning and go from there. Once you do that you can proceed to the other possible problems like carb or fuel flow.

Yes a few sprays of ether got it started. It ran great, sounds smooth, no sputtering, no starving of fuel. I even drive it. Yes I have a timing light and could barely see anything in that window on the flywheel.

[Isaiah92260]

Here is what my carb looks like. The valve in the top barely moves. That’s the choke right?

[68gmsee]

yes, that's the choke. Should be almost closed when you start it cold. Not needed to start after it warms up. If it's no opening and closing when you pull the choke knob you may need to either lube the cable or find out where it's binding.

Does it run okay when it does start. No missing or sputtering.

[geezer#99]

Doesn’t look like the cable is hooked up to me.

[Isaiah92260]

..

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

yes, that's the choke. Should be almost closed when you start it cold. Not needed to start after it warms up. If it's no opening and closing when you pull the choke knob you may need to either lube the cable or find out where it's binding.

Does it run okay when it does start. No missing or sputtering.

Awh yeah you’re right, when I pull the choke cable it only closes it half way. I had to close it fully by hand but it was tough, after a few tries the valve started working and the truck started right up. The Parts are rusty and dont move smoothly that operate the cable and the choke, do I spray WD 40 or something?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

yes, that's the choke. Should be almost closed when you start it cold. Not needed to start after it warms up. If it's no opening and closing when you pull the choke knob you may need to either lube the cable or find out where it's binding.

Does it run okay when it does start. No missing or sputtering.

No it runs great when running. No missing. It does start “dieseling” when I shut it off. Keeps running and then finally dies. Sounds pretty funny, I turn a lot of heads at the gas station when it does that. That’s because of the timing right?

[68gmsee]

The dieseling could be the timing or it could be carbon deposits in the cylinders. My 68 with a 250 six would diesel also and I cleared it up with fuel additive every time I filled it up. I think it took three tanks full and three cans or more of Techron fuel additive to finally clear it up.

Re. choke cable. If you're sure it's not a mechanical bind, WD40 on the cable wouldn't hurt it. I'd try it. Shouldn't hurt to spray some on the carb choke shaft also.

[andyh1956]

You should know that to PROPERLY apply the choke you should depress the accelerator pedal to disengage the idle screw from the fast idle cam steps BEFORE you pull on the cable knob or else you're binding the linkage all up & can pull the cable from it's stop.

[Dead Parrot]

Another cause of dieseling is an idle speed screw turned in too much to compensate for poor idle mix adjustment or not enough idle timing. Keeps the throttle plate too open.

Sometimes it is easier to lube a choke cable if you take it loose from the carb, get it as straight as possible, then work it back and forth. Might spray some carb cleaner on the choke parts on the carb, they might be gummed up.

Don't trust the timing mark to be accurate. The balancer ring might have shifted. A PO might have installed the timing tab in the wrong place.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by andyh1956

You should know that to PROPERLY apply the choke you should depress the accelerator pedal to disengage the idle screw from the fast idle cam steps BEFORE you pull on the cable knob or else you're binding the linkage all up & can pull the cable from it's stop.

Oh okay, so before I crank it, press and hold the gas pedal, pull the choke and then start the motor?

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Another cause of dieseling is an idle speed screw turned in too much to compensate for poor idle mix adjustment or not enough idle timing. Keeps the throttle plate too open.

Sometimes it is easier to lube a choke cable if you take it loose from the carb, get it as straight as possible, then work it back and forth. Might spray some carb cleaner on the choke parts on the carb, they might be gummed up.

Don't trust the timing mark to be accurate. The balancer ring might have shifted. A PO might have installed the timing tab in the wrong place.

I see. Then before I chose to rebuild or replace it, I’ll clean up the linkage andnchoke then adjust the carb and see how that does

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

The dieseling could be the timing or it could be carbon deposits in the cylinders. My 68 with a 250 six would diesel also and I cleared it up with fuel additive every time I filled it up. I think it took three tanks full and three cans or more of Techron fuel additive to finally clear it up.

Re. choke cable. If you're sure it's not a mechanical bind, WD40 on the cable wouldn't hurt it. I'd try it. Shouldn't hurt to spray some on the carb choke shaft also.

Thank you for the info. That’s funny my old 63’ had a 1967 250 also and it would diesel but went away when I raised the timing to 8• BTDC. I did sea foam in the gas ones as well and went away. I gotta try additive in the gas in this one too, maybe it’ll help