How To Remove Wood Floor?? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TOYOTA61384 · 02-21-2005, 11:31 AM

Is this as involved as is looks? I am starting the step notch on the rear of the Burb for the air bags, and was goimg to remove the wood floor to access the suspension, but wow! Does that floor support the weight of the body? It looks like I would be better off just cutting out a section over the axle, what do you guys think? Anybody done this before?

Thanks

Robert

*Sublvr72* · 02-21-2005, 02:44 PM

no it does not support the weight of the body, I believe there are a whole bunch of bolts that go through the top of the floor and come out the other side and have a nut attached. You should be able to remove all of the nuts (there are alot of them) and the floor should lift up.

smokekiki · 02-21-2005, 02:51 PM

Someone on here a while back,removed the floor to do some body work.The floor came out the bottom after the body was lifted off the frame.

TOYOTA61384 · 02-21-2005, 07:43 PM

I am going to work at it again on wed so hope Sublvr72 is right and I can get it out. It might take me all day. With only one person, I took me a good hour and a half to remove the spare tire well and half of one inner fender ( all of the carriage bolts wanted to spin on top

) O'well, I'll get to and let you guys know.

Thanks

Robert

zeusflash · 02-21-2005, 09:18 PM

When you start to remove all of those carriage bolts you can expect them all to spin. Heres the trick I used on my truck bed,tighten the bolts until they break! They are only 1/4 inch and half rusted through so they break easily. You are going to have to replace them all anyway. This method is much quicker.

bagged91 · 02-21-2005, 09:49 PM

PM Sent........

4x4Poet · 02-22-2005, 05:23 AM

That's a great idea, zeusflash! Never thought of that [not surprising

]. Would every bolt break, for sure? No chance of wallowing out the square carriage bolt hole?

Toyota, look at the wood on the pass side front where it curves around the wheelwell. You should see a dovetail joint, or at least the obvious mating point. I can't recall if the other side has one as well. If you remove the wood, you'll probably want to replace it while its out. Try remove each piece without damage so you can use them as a templates for cutting new ones and transfering the mounting bolt hole locations. I'd replace it with the most waterproof plywood available, short of exorbitantly priced stuff. Maybe polyurethane the top before installing.

TOYOTA61384 · 02-22-2005, 10:30 AM

Thanks, the bottom of mine is pretty rust free, so I dont know if the bolts will break, but I guess the Blue-Point will let me know pretty quick

.
I'll have to give it a try, if it's not too cold tomorrow (susposed to sno and be in the 30's

)

Robert

wagonhoe · 02-22-2005, 04:40 PM

Although I haven't checked this out personally, I've been told that you can get sheets of Marine grade plywood in larger sizes that will cover the floor in one piece. This also provides a more weather resistant floor that won't rot as easily as regular plywood. Try your local boat builder for more info. Good luck and let us know how it works.

blazer1971 · 02-22-2005, 09:58 PM

Check this stuff out. Will not rot, water proof and can cut like wood.
http://www.theplasticstore.com/plast.../starboard.htm

zeusflash · 02-22-2005, 10:47 PM

Damage to the metal flanges should not be a problem,in fact you will probably be suprised at how easily the bolts will break! The best part of this method is that the bolts will not spin and damage the square hole. Let us know how it works out for you.

zeusflash · 02-22-2005, 10:50 PM

One more thing,there are probably a few 5/16 bolts on there someware(usually corners)you may have to actually unscrew these.

TOYOTA61384 · 02-24-2005, 10:12 AM

Well four hours later, and after a little frustration, I got it out

.
As far as breaking the bolts out, it worked on a few, and some still spun. I found that I had to put channel locks on the top and impact on the bottom, and some were eaiser to just drill out from the top, and punch through. Thanks for the help, once my camera gets back, I will post some pics for you guys. I am going to try and tackle the step notch this weekend, and see if I can get that back bumper to hit the groung

.

Thanks
Robert

TOYOTA61384 · 02-24-2005, 07:08 PM

Also about the floor, mine is still in pretty good shape, I was thinking about building a bridge over the axle and reusing it, then bedliner the whole floor and notch. Eventually I could throw carpet over it, but it would be clean, and seal the wood at the same time, what do you guys think?

Robert

bagged91 · 02-24-2005, 11:15 PM

I think 98L150 did something similar to his. I think he made a sheetmetal bridge to cover the notch and left the woodfloor in. I believe he may have carpeted it too...

4x4Poet · 02-27-2005, 04:36 AM

Interesting idea, blazer1971. I will definately look into that "starboard" when I refurbish my K20. Another great idea on this board. Thanks.

BTW, I trust those prices listed were in Canadian $$.

Do you get a local discount?

TOYOTA61384 · 02-28-2005, 10:45 AM

Well, I am getting pretty close on the step notch, once I get pics, I will start a new thread in suspension. I had to remove more than I thought, both the crossmembers before and after the axle had to be romoved, along with the original panhard mount, and I still need to reroute the fuel lines, and brake line, etc. I have the first plate on the notch welded in, and hopefully on Wed I will have the notch finished (it's my next day off, and I have to work outside, hopefully the weather will be nice

)

Robert

02-21-2005, 11:31 AM	#1
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	How To Remove Wood Floor?? Is this as involved as is looks? I am starting the step notch on the rear of the Burb for the air bags, and was goimg to remove the wood floor to access the suspension, but wow! Does that floor support the weight of the body? It looks like I would be better off just cutting out a section over the axle, what do you guys think? Anybody done this before? Thanks Robert

02-21-2005, 02:51 PM	#3
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	Someone on here a while back,removed the floor to do some body work.The floor came out the bottom after the body was lifted off the frame. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

02-21-2005, 09:18 PM	#5
zeusflash Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Post Falls,Idaho Posts: 690	When you start to remove all of those carriage bolts you can expect them all to spin. Heres the trick I used on my truck bed,tighten the bolts until they break! They are only 1/4 inch and half rusted through so they break easily. You are going to have to replace them all anyway. This method is much quicker. __________________ '69 3/4 ton 427 CST Pickup '71 CST Blazer '72 GMC 3/4 4x4

02-21-2005, 09:49 PM	#6
bagged91 Out draggin' Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Pitman,NJ Posts: 1,574	PM Sent........ __________________ 91 GMC Xcab LB-Bags/bd/caddy clip SOLD 72 C10 Cheyenne Super LWB SOLD 92 GMC K1500 Burb 72 C10 Burb (ex. Cheesewagon)SOLD 72 C20 Burb parts truck 71 C10 Burb "project"

02-22-2005, 05:23 AM	#7
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	That's a great idea, zeusflash! Never thought of that [not surprising]. Would every bolt break, for sure? No chance of wallowing out the square carriage bolt hole? Toyota, look at the wood on the pass side front where it curves around the wheelwell. You should see a dovetail joint, or at least the obvious mating point. I can't recall if the other side has one as well. If you remove the wood, you'll probably want to replace it while its out. Try remove each piece without damage so you can use them as a templates for cutting new ones and transfering the mounting bolt hole locations. I'd replace it with the most waterproof plywood available, short of exorbitantly priced stuff. Maybe polyurethane the top before installing. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 02-22-2005 at 05:28 AM.

02-21-2005, 02:44 PM	#2
Sublvr72 Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: Simi Valley, CA Posts: 1,387	no it does not support the weight of the body, I believe there are a whole bunch of bolts that go through the top of the floor and come out the other side and have a nut attached. You should be able to remove all of the nuts (there are alot of them) and the floor should lift up.

02-21-2005, 07:43 PM	#4
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	I am going to work at it again on wed so hope Sublvr72 is right and I can get it out. It might take me all day. With only one person, I took me a good hour and a half to remove the spare tire well and half of one inner fender ( all of the carriage bolts wanted to spin on top ) O'well, I'll get to and let you guys know. Thanks Robert

02-22-2005, 10:30 AM	#8
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	Thanks, the bottom of mine is pretty rust free, so I dont know if the bolts will break, but I guess the Blue-Point will let me know pretty quick . I'll have to give it a try, if it's not too cold tomorrow (susposed to sno and be in the 30's ) Robert

02-22-2005, 04:40 PM	#9
wagonhoe Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: San Diego, Is there anywhere else? Posts: 125	Although I haven't checked this out personally, I've been told that you can get sheets of Marine grade plywood in larger sizes that will cover the floor in one piece. This also provides a more weather resistant floor that won't rot as easily as regular plywood. Try your local boat builder for more info. Good luck and let us know how it works.

02-22-2005, 09:58 PM	#10
blazer1971 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: apollo bch,fl. usa Posts: 134	Check this stuff out. Will not rot, water proof and can cut like wood. http://www.theplasticstore.com/plast.../starboard.htm

02-22-2005, 10:47 PM	#11
zeusflash Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Post Falls,Idaho Posts: 690	Damage to the metal flanges should not be a problem,in fact you will probably be suprised at how easily the bolts will break! The best part of this method is that the bolts will not spin and damage the square hole. Let us know how it works out for you. __________________ '69 3/4 ton 427 CST Pickup '71 CST Blazer '72 GMC 3/4 4x4

02-22-2005, 10:50 PM	#12
zeusflash Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Post Falls,Idaho Posts: 690	One more thing,there are probably a few 5/16 bolts on there someware(usually corners)you may have to actually unscrew these. __________________ '69 3/4 ton 427 CST Pickup '71 CST Blazer '72 GMC 3/4 4x4

02-24-2005, 10:12 AM	#13
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	Well four hours later, and after a little frustration, I got it out . As far as breaking the bolts out, it worked on a few, and some still spun. I found that I had to put channel locks on the top and impact on the bottom, and some were eaiser to just drill out from the top, and punch through. Thanks for the help, once my camera gets back, I will post some pics for you guys. I am going to try and tackle the step notch this weekend, and see if I can get that back bumper to hit the groung . Thanks Robert

02-24-2005, 07:08 PM	#14
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	Also about the floor, mine is still in pretty good shape, I was thinking about building a bridge over the axle and reusing it, then bedliner the whole floor and notch. Eventually I could throw carpet over it, but it would be clean, and seal the wood at the same time, what do you guys think? Robert

02-24-2005, 11:15 PM	#15
bagged91 Out draggin' Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Pitman,NJ Posts: 1,574	I think 98L150 did something similar to his. I think he made a sheetmetal bridge to cover the notch and left the woodfloor in. I believe he may have carpeted it too... __________________ 91 GMC Xcab LB-Bags/bd/caddy clip SOLD 72 C10 Cheyenne Super LWB SOLD 92 GMC K1500 Burb 72 C10 Burb (ex. Cheesewagon)SOLD 72 C20 Burb parts truck 71 C10 Burb "project"



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02-27-2005, 04:36 AM	#16
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Interesting idea, blazer1971. I will definately look into that "starboard" when I refurbish my K20. Another great idea on this board. Thanks. BTW, I trust those prices listed were in Canadian $$. Do you get a local discount? __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup.

02-28-2005, 10:45 AM	#17
TOYOTA61384 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Fort Collins CO Posts: 71	Well, I am getting pretty close on the step notch, once I get pics, I will start a new thread in suspension. I had to remove more than I thought, both the crossmembers before and after the axle had to be romoved, along with the original panhard mount, and I still need to reroute the fuel lines, and brake line, etc. I have the first plate on the notch welded in, and hopefully on Wed I will have the notch finished (it's my next day off, and I have to work outside, hopefully the weather will be nice ) Robert

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