NBS Silverado Core Support in 67-72?

[crakarjax]

I saw a vid of an LQ9 install in a 68 and in the vid the poster mentioned using an '04 silverado core support. I was wondering if anyone has info on this? Seems like an interesting way to solve some LS swap issues.

[crakarjax]

Or maybe does anyone have a writeup of a NBS radiator install in a stock support?

[Willie Makeit]

sounds like someone came up with an overly-complicated solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

what kind of "issues" are you seeing with an LS swap that that concerns the core support?

stock 3 or 4 row radiator, a stock core support and a couple new radiator hoses. problem solved.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

sounds like someone came up with an overly-complicated solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

Sounds like something someone in the government would do on their time off......

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Sounds like something someone in the government would do on their time off......

Amen. I work for the "gubment" (NASA) and I deal with what you speak of EVERY day. So I guess you can say I'm overly sensitive to these type scenarios.

Designers wanting parts made stupid-complicated out of some crazy material, when in reality all they need to do is open a McMaster-Carr catalog.

[crakarjax]

I'm looking to use an NBS radiator so that I can use the stock steam port and also plan to use a surge tank, so that stock radiator would save me some hassle and allow me to replace the part easily if it goes bad.

I'm also looking to use the NBS style air cleaner and A/C and so the mounting points, existing through-holes and other things would make the initial setup and maintenance easier, depending on the effort required to fit the core support into my truck.

I'm not saying I want to do it, but I would like to see what kind of effort is required so that I can make the judgement about the tradeoff in effort of modifying my stock support vs modifying the NBS support.

[Big Port Jimmy 6]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

Amen. I work for the "gubment" (NASA) and I deal with what you speak of EVERY day. So I guess you can say I'm overly sensitive to these type scenarios.

Designers wanting parts made stupid-complicated out of some crazy material, when in reality all they need to do is open a McMaster-Carr catalog.

We call that the $100 solution to a $5 problem.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by crakarjax

I'm looking to use an NBS radiator so that I can use the stock steam port and also plan to use a surge tank, so that stock radiator would save me some hassle and allow me to replace the part easily if it goes bad.

I'm also looking to use the NBS style air cleaner and A/C and so the mounting points, existing through-holes and other things would make the initial setup and maintenance easier, depending on the effort required to fit the core support into my truck.

I'm not saying I want to do it, but I would like to see what kind of effort is required so that I can make the judgement about the tradeoff in effort of modifying my stock support vs modifying the NBS support.

It would take a LOT of fab work to make this happen.

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by Big Port Jimmy 6

We call that the $100 solution to a $5 problem.

in most cases, it's a HECKUVA lot more than $100

[Overdriven]

I look at it this way. With the NBS core support all your body mounting points will need to be fabricated, including the core to the frame. Fenders, grill, headlight buckets will all need new mounting points and this is stuff that needs to be specific distances from each other. Get the gaps wrong and it'll look like crap, definitely more fiddling required to get it right. Plus when you open the hood you'll have to look at your fab work at these mounting points. The NBS core only saves you from mounting the NBS components while making you remount all the body parts.

Putting NBS components on the stock core. It's basically going to be drill some holes, weld filler pieces, cut a bigger hole here, make a mounting bracket there. All little things that can basically be tackled one at a time and aren't as interconnected. Would you rather make all new body mounting points and try to line those up or deal with individual components and making them look decent with the stock core. This sounds like way less fab work to me and much easier to make look nice with less stress.

If you're hell bent on using the NBS core my suggestion is to see if you can graft the center of it into the stock core. Basically, on the stock core leave the frame mounting, the headlight buckets and fender mounts. Cut out the center and weld in the center of the NBS core. That'll save you from making new mounting points for the radiator, condenser, etc. But you need to get a NBS core support, graft it in, figure out making the hood latch work if you removed the top of the stock core, bracing it and the grill, hoping it's the right distance from the engine for a mechanical or electric fan, etc, etc. Of course I have no idea what a NBS core or it's components look like, this is just thinking logically and trying to answer your question.

[solidaxel]

If your stock radiator is good, why can't you just solder a 1/8" female bung in your radiator?
Do you need a surge tank because the radiator is lower than the engine?

[crakarjax]

Yeah I don't know exactly what's involved in the modification of the nbs support either but thought I'd ask -- really I'm just curious as to why someone would do this more than anything. It does seem like a pretty big time sink for minimal benefit but the build looked really nice and I thought there may have been some crazy compatibility that I wasn't aware of...

Originally Posted by solidaxel

If your stock radiator is good, why can't you just solder a 1/8" female bung in your radiator?
Do you need a surge tank because the radiator is lower than the engine?

Thought about that, but I want to be able to drop in replacement components when needed for all wear items. Also, this would just recirculate steam through the cooling system instead of allowing it to escape and recondense (the purpose of the surge tank).

More about the surge tank, from http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/

"A surge tank serves two purposes. First it allows for "remote mounting" of the rad cap in situations where the top of the radiator is not the highest point in the system. Secondly, it serves as a de-aeration chamber, allowing for continual and effective removal of any vapour (air or vaporized coolant / steam) in the system."

If you read through the article it's clear that a surge tank really does aid in optimal cooling. It's certainly not *necessary* but I like optimal.

[68c10airstream]

I used the 2001 organ donor radiator (suburban radiator) in my 68 c10 ls swap. I relocated the battery box to the other side, used the 2001 clutch fan, 68 fan shroud. Had to pick up another set of upper rad brackets and cut and weld in additional length. My existing original core support i don't care about so i massaged (bent) the driver's side vertical brace over a bit. I used a foam strip and stuck it to either side of the shroud so it forces all air to go through the radiator and not suck unwanted air around the shroud. I like stock good quality oem easily sourced parts for my project.

I used the organ donor 2001 coolant surge tank and mounted it high on the passenger inner fender because the coolant level in the surge tank should be level with the top of the radiator (the way the engineers wanted it because the radiator does not have a cap on it). If the fan clutch craps out on me it locks up and you get max cooling. Perfect.

I've pulled my old airstream in 100 degree heat (hot for this area) with no issues. I know electric cooling fans overall are more efficient because they only come on when needed but i prefer the old school clutch fan

I used the 2001 complete hoses assy's as patterns and only had to extend one line to my heater box (non ac at this time but will change in the future to a/c)