Need Advice On Front Suspension Upgrade. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

imdarren · 05-19-2002, 12:43 PM

I am not looking for the cheepest, fastest, or easiest way. Just the best (most profesional) way to upgrade my front on the 67 C10 LWB to 5 lug / Disks. I will be also upgrading to 2 1/2 drop spindles at the same time (No Bags).
Should I install all the front componants (including the crossmember)off of a 72? Or just Install the spindles, and steering componants off of the newer truck?
The one question that comes to mind is, The brake lines. Which of the two method would look and work the best? Or other advice? Please?
Darren

------------------
Darren
Washington State
darrengale67@hotmail.com

1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock)
1967 Chevy C10 LWB
Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4x4 Cheyenne Super with little or no rust.

j-dogg · 05-19-2002, 02:24 PM

I don't know about the best way to upgrade, but as far as brake lines go, there is a difference between the hose routing for a drum brake crossmember as opposed to a disc brake crossmember. The disc brake crossmember routes the brake hoses to the front, drum brake routes them to the back of the crossmember. In other words, if you use a drum brake crossmember for disc brakes, you may have to fabricate brackets for the hoses to run through or drill holes in the crossmember, which may not look as nice as you want it to.

[This message has been edited by j-dogg (edited May 19, 2002).]

RAGIN68 · 05-19-2002, 04:18 PM

I bought tho suspension off of a 85 truck that has been recked. the roters and shocks had just been replaced before the guy recked it and the break pads also changed. It was a direct bolt up and w/ a few bushings changed out, I had a new front end. 200.00 total

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68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/342.... 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs

68C10 · 05-19-2002, 07:36 PM

I have been wrestling with the same thing for some time now. I think it all depends on what used parts are available in your area and how much screwing around you want to do. If you can find a good used truck I'd do the whole crossmember thing because you can prep and paint the whole thing before you put it in but you're going to have to run around replacing parts.
You can buy a whole kit, including the drop spindles, from GMC Paul, Classic Performance, Mothertruckers, etc. The guys who have used the kits say they are really great ... all the parts fit and they are all there. You save yourself a lot of time and agrivation but you will spend a lot more money.
I will probably end up going the kit route because I never seem to have much luck scrounging parts but ....

Good luck with what ever you do.

------------------
68C10
1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles
1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed
South Plainfield, NJ

imdarren · 05-19-2002, 08:40 PM

I seem to have no problems finding trucks around here (in the Northwest) for parts.
I am tearing the whole thing down anyways to have the frame Powder Coated. So it will all be coming apart anyway.
So I'm hearing that the "cleanest" look would be the 72 crossmember and all?
Any other input?
Darren

------------------
Darren
Washington State
darrengale67@hotmail.com

1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock)
1967 Chevy C10 LWB
Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4x4 Cheyenne Super with little or no rust.

69 longhorn · 05-19-2002, 09:33 PM

Other than brackets for brake hoses,I dont think you will find any differences in the 71-72 crossmember vs the 67. I didnt feel the need to replace the crossmember on the 69,just used the 71-72 lower a arms,& the rest of the pcs are 75 C10,including the brake lines,hoses,prop valve & master. The front brake hoses route through the frame& are also bolted to the top a arms (I had to drill a hole on ea side),& the prop valve is mounted on the back side of the front crossmember........no need to worry about missing brackets on my 69 crossmember. there are many ways to do the job,& a lot depends on what parts you can find at a reasonable price.Good luck.......69

[This message has been edited by 69 longhorn (edited May 19, 2002).]

imdarren · 05-19-2002, 09:53 PM

OK! I'm an idiot!!
I own a 72 1/2 ton AND a 67! All I need to do is go look at the two!! And see the diffrences.
This board has odviously become a crutch!
Thanks. Darren

ID69 · 05-20-2002, 07:38 PM

For what it is worth. I used a kit from a board vendor. The fit and ease of installation was great. All parts needed where provided. Priced under 500.00 included shipping. I wanted a manual disk / drum
setup. Required new prop valve (CPP) and
70 Corvett master cylinder. Had to replumb
front brake lines and part of rear line.
Rubber lines install behind wheels like the
orignal drums, but added hose around lines
to prevent possible wear on front hoses.
I installed 2 1/2" drop spindles, set up to
use 69 tie rod ends. Also used the 6 lug
rotors, but 5 lug are available in kit form.

05-19-2002, 12:43 PM	#1
imdarren Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: SW Washington Posts: 1,006	Need Advice On Front Suspension Upgrade. I am not looking for the cheepest, fastest, or easiest way. Just the best (most profesional) way to upgrade my front on the 67 C10 LWB to 5 lug / Disks. I will be also upgrading to 2 1/2 drop spindles at the same time (No Bags). Should I install all the front componants (including the crossmember)off of a 72? Or just Install the spindles, and steering componants off of the newer truck? The one question that comes to mind is, The brake lines. Which of the two method would look and work the best? Or other advice? Please? Darren ------------------ Darren Washington State darrengale67@hotmail.com 1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock) 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4x4 Cheyenne Super with little or no rust. __________________ Washington State 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Rodstoration In Progress. 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super

05-19-2002, 04:18 PM	#3
RAGIN68 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Houston Posts: 28	I bought tho suspension off of a 85 truck that has been recked. the roters and shocks had just been replaced before the guy recked it and the break pads also changed. It was a direct bolt up and w/ a few bushings changed out, I had a new front end. 200.00 total ------------------ 68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/342.... 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs __________________ 68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/????.... 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs

05-19-2002, 07:36 PM	#4
68C10 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Central New Jersey, USA Posts: 328	I have been wrestling with the same thing for some time now. I think it all depends on what used parts are available in your area and how much screwing around you want to do. If you can find a good used truck I'd do the whole crossmember thing because you can prep and paint the whole thing before you put it in but you're going to have to run around replacing parts. You can buy a whole kit, including the drop spindles, from GMC Paul, Classic Performance, Mothertruckers, etc. The guys who have used the kits say they are really great ... all the parts fit and they are all there. You save yourself a lot of time and agrivation but you will spend a lot more money. I will probably end up going the kit route because I never seem to have much luck scrounging parts but .... Good luck with what ever you do. ------------------ 68C10 1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles 1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed South Plainfield, NJ __________________ 68C10 1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles 1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed South Plainfield, NJ

05-19-2002, 08:40 PM	#5
imdarren Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: SW Washington Posts: 1,006	I seem to have no problems finding trucks around here (in the Northwest) for parts. I am tearing the whole thing down anyways to have the frame Powder Coated. So it will all be coming apart anyway. So I'm hearing that the "cleanest" look would be the 72 crossmember and all? Any other input? Darren ------------------ Darren Washington State darrengale67@hotmail.com 1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock) 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4x4 Cheyenne Super with little or no rust. __________________ Washington State 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Rodstoration In Progress. 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super

05-19-2002, 09:33 PM	#6
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	Other than brackets for brake hoses,I dont think you will find any differences in the 71-72 crossmember vs the 67. I didnt feel the need to replace the crossmember on the 69,just used the 71-72 lower a arms,& the rest of the pcs are 75 C10,including the brake lines,hoses,prop valve & master. The front brake hoses route through the frame& are also bolted to the top a arms (I had to drill a hole on ea side),& the prop valve is mounted on the back side of the front crossmember........no need to worry about missing brackets on my 69 crossmember. there are many ways to do the job,& a lot depends on what parts you can find at a reasonable price.Good luck.......69 [This message has been edited by 69 longhorn (edited May 19, 2002).] __________________ http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn

05-19-2002, 02:24 PM	#2
j-dogg Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: Texas Posts: 189	I don't know about the best way to upgrade, but as far as brake lines go, there is a difference between the hose routing for a drum brake crossmember as opposed to a disc brake crossmember. The disc brake crossmember routes the brake hoses to the front, drum brake routes them to the back of the crossmember. In other words, if you use a drum brake crossmember for disc brakes, you may have to fabricate brackets for the hoses to run through or drill holes in the crossmember, which may not look as nice as you want it to. [This message has been edited by j-dogg (edited May 19, 2002).]

05-19-2002, 09:53 PM	#7
imdarren Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: SW Washington Posts: 1,006	OK! I'm an idiot!! I own a 72 1/2 ton AND a 67! All I need to do is go look at the two!! And see the diffrences. This board has odviously become a crutch! Thanks. Darren __________________ Washington State 1967 Chevy C10 LWB Rodstoration In Progress. 1972 K20 Cheyenne Super

05-20-2002, 07:38 PM	#8
ID69 Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Pocatello, Id. Posts: 8	For what it is worth. I used a kit from a board vendor. The fit and ease of installation was great. All parts needed where provided. Priced under 500.00 included shipping. I wanted a manual disk / drum setup. Required new prop valve (CPP) and 70 Corvett master cylinder. Had to replumb front brake lines and part of rear line. Rubber lines install behind wheels like the orignal drums, but added hose around lines to prevent possible wear on front hoses. I installed 2 1/2" drop spindles, set up to use 69 tie rod ends. Also used the 6 lug rotors, but 5 lug are available in kit form.



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