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Old 08-27-2003, 12:05 PM   #26
1970blazin
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JayDubBlazer- I think I may have the drivers side hatch support. I am missing the other, so if you want I can sell you the one I have. I think it is the drivers side, I would have to check. Let me know.
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Old 08-27-2003, 12:10 PM   #27
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Gee_Emm - I'd see what you can get the hardware for. If you can get all the guts, the things that hold it open and the handle, you should be albe to sell them off pretty darn quick! I've seen several post here and on CK5 from guys wanting hatch hardware.
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Old 08-27-2003, 02:04 PM   #28
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OKAY, I GET FIRST DIBS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I did start this thread after all!!!!!!! WAAAAHHHH!!!
Sniffle, sniffle.

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Old 08-27-2003, 02:16 PM   #29
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Is the hardware from a Suburban the same?
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Old 08-27-2003, 07:02 PM   #30
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I should be going back before winter, I was checking the hatches for that plate that covers the guts so I know there are a few hatches there with the guts. I will see what I can grab. I wish I knew about all these things before hand, what to look for. I got all of the door caps I could find, only one passenger side.
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Old 08-28-2003, 05:31 AM   #31
'68OrangeSunshine
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Quote:
Originally posted by 1970cstblazer
Is the hardware from a Suburban the same?
Well, not exactly. The Liftgate on a sub has similar side latches. Because the action is all in the bottom, the sub left latches almost match the K/5 right latches. There is more of a flare on the sub latch and the mounting holes are about 1/4" off. Also my '71 K/5 latch has only 3 mounting holes not 4 like the sub and some '69 K/5s. With a grinder, a drill and rattail file -- I made one work. I was able to use a '67 sub's tailgate drvr side latch on my Jimmy's pass side hatch by making the above mods. [I had swapped a '68 tailgate onto my '67 K/10 sub, so I had one lying around.] It worked for almost a year until the little spring that's wrapped around the inside --causes the catch to retract when released-- broke from stress/metal fatigue, and I was back into "Quest for Guts" mode.
Also the sub's relay rods are slightly different -- don't ever mix them up: BTDT. The Sub uses a pushbutton w/ locking cylinder to release the hatch which is lifted by a handle. No T-handle. And the suburban's tailgate support [drop] links are longer than the Fleetside/ K/5's, but identical in design.
I'll have to measure if the Sub's hatch support sliders are the same size and type as K/5s. I know the '67s don't have the locking catch that my '71 does.
Because suburban/carryalls of this vintage are even more rare than K/5s it's not a good bet time-wise on your guts hunt.
HTH
(the user formerly known as BluThndr71Jmmy)

Last edited by '68OrangeSunshine; 08-28-2003 at 05:38 AM.
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:39 AM   #32
JayDubBlazer
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1970blazin I need the passenger side as well. I meant the right side as you are looking at it from the rear
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Old 08-28-2003, 10:56 AM   #33
1970blazin
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JayDubBlazer- Is there a difference for each side? I saw that frank "PickMUp" has a hatch support from a later model that is a cylinder. It works pretty slick. You may want to ask him how he got that to work. Maybe save you some $$. I just saw a pair of hatch supports go on ebay for over $55! That seems to spendy to me.
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:03 AM   #34
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yeah, that is a bit much considerng the low technology of the whole apparatus. I had thought about a charged cylinder. I will try to get ahold of him
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Old 09-10-2003, 08:48 PM   #35
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You have to keep pluggin away. I bought a wrecked hatch from a guy called Chevy Dave that I got off the internet for all the hardware for $50. He had 6 of them at the time
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Old 09-14-2003, 12:57 AM   #36
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Some blazer hatch guts on ebay now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2432635339
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