new motor mounts are not bolting down evenly

[old cool]

I had local mechanic install a pair of motor mounts on my 1966 PU with a 250 inline. The parts (2282) were from Orielly's. Job is done and I have less vibration in cab. That's the good news.
Question: the rubber on the driver's side (DS) mount is raising a space between top and bottom of the engine supports by about 1/8 of an inch. The gap on the passenger side (PS) is tighter - about 1/16 of an inch.. Both are flush; no further tightening that the mechanic or I can see. Are there any issues with this? Will the weight of the engine compress the new rubber over time? Will the 1/8th difference affect motor or driveline function?

Quote: The statement that "It's just the nature of the beast." is actually not all that true. New parts do make a difference.

[Captainfab]

I'm not really able to visualize what you are talking about by your description. A pic or two would really help.

[old cool]

I definitely need to learn the steps to posting pictures. Until such time, I think the paragraph that I wrote sounds contradictory. Especially when I used the word "flush" on both sides. I'll take another stab at explaining it. The new rubber now lifts the lower and upper portion of the perches which prevents vibration. The installation of the new mounts ended up with a taller gap on driver side. As if one mount was taller than the other. Just wondering if the meesly 1/8 inch diff is an issue. I would think not but thought id check.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by old cool

I definitely need to learn the steps to posting pictures. Until such time, I think the paragraph that I wrote sounds contradictory. Especially when I used the word "flush" on both sides. I'll take another stab at explaining it. The new rubber now lifts the lower and upper portion of the perches which prevents vibration. The installation of the new mounts ended up with a taller gap on driver side. As if one mount was taller than the other. Just wondering if the meesly 1/8 inch diff is an issue. I would think not but thought id check.

the gap is between the insulator and the percrh?
ron

[padresag]

if the gap is between the insulator and the perch there could be a couple of possibilities. we don't know what kind of mechanic that you have. believe that the single bolt up thru the perch into the bottom of the insulator takes a thick flat washer may be missing and did the bolt bottom out. has there been a longer bolt installed which may have bottomed out.
or was an impact used to put the bolts in and are cross threaded. that bolt should suck the insulator down to the perch. sometimes people get frustrated putting that lower bolt in as it doesn't start that easy and out comes the impact.
there has to be a reason either something is holding it up or something as above
ron

[old cool]

I do believe you have identified one or more of the causes. The mechanic didn't hesitate to tell me he had stripped one of the bolt holes and rethreaded it. He didnt mention a washer being ruined. In your opinion, should I ask him to redo it or is acceptable as is. The original problem was the old insulators had flattened which allowed vibration. The new insulators are now in place and there is no longer any metal to metal contact. There is just a slight gap difference..Will the new bolt, damaged washer (if damaged), or gap difference cause problems down the road?
Unfortuately I will not be able to see the inside of the new insulator..
Thanks Ron and Cptn Fab

[padresag]

Originally Posted by old cool

I do believe you have identified one or more of the causes. The mechanic didn't hesitate to tell me he had stripped one of the bolt holes and rethreaded it. He didnt mention a washer being ruined. In your opinion, should I ask him to redo it or is acceptable as is. The original problem was the old insulators had flattened which allowed vibration. The new insulators are now in place and there is no longer any metal to metal contact. There is just a slight gap difference..Will the new bolt, damaged washer (if damaged), or gap difference cause problems down the road?
Unfortuately I will not be able to see the inside of the new insulator..
Thanks Ron and Cptn Fab

if you are happy with half assed work you can leave it, but the problem will more than likely resurface. there are mechanics, mechanics and back yard mechanics.
if they know what they are doing they don't have that problem. some have problems lining it up as the bolt won't start. Things shift over the years esp if the insulator broke or the rubber collapses. in these vehicles with m/trans have four mounts and if you are replacing the frts you should replace the rears as they will also have collapsed by this time. back to the point if you are having a problem with lining up that bolt you should loosen up the bolts on all of the other mounts and then a little wiggle always gets things excited and thing come together. then tighten them all back up.
if it is loose(gap) every time you step on the throttle you should hear a click or will(if it is drivers side) of that bolt hitting the bottom oof the inside of the perch. the insulator will finally settle in and then it will just be like a loose bolt
if it was me paying I expect to get what I am paying for and if the others are stripped, he should replace them. this is how they learn
if it was me doing the work it wouldn't have gone out the door that way. I fired my 3 employees in 1980 as I got tired of going over their work. been working by myself ever since
ron

[old cool]

I do not like half ass work. In fact Im kind of OCD the other way. That' why I turn to this forum.
The trans/bell housing mounts are like new. Should be all set there. i will follow up with my mechanic to replace the mount in question.
Wish we were closer. I know where id take my vehicles. THNKS.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by old cool

I do not like half ass work. In fact Im kind of OCD the other way. That' why I turn to this forum.
The trans/bell housing mounts are like new. Should be all set there. i will follow up with my mechanic to replace the mount in question.
Wish we were closer. I know where id take my vehicles. THNKS.

I have run a woodworking business since 75 but did spend 15 years in the industry prior. worked in an a/trans shop in the mid 60s. Replaced a lot of drivers side eng mount. 58-60 t-birds were the worst with a 332-352 eng. you could pop those things at will.
all that I have done my working life has been fixing things, I get to fix a lot of other peoples screw-ups and there is usually a pattern; there are a lot of wanna/bees out there.
ron

[old cool]

SO,SO true. The problem we ole guys are having is finding someone who actually can work on a simpler design vehicle...

[Mathew21]

Originally Posted by old cool

SO,SO true. The problem we ole guys are having is finding someone who actually can work on a simpler design vehicle...

I'm pretty close to you if you are ever in need of a good mechanic (not me lol) But I can point you in the right direction to someone local.

As for posting pictures. For me I use photobucket when posting onto a forum.