Disk brake conversion

[kyhillbilly]

I bought my 16 year old son a 1970 K-10. It has manual drum brakes. I want to convert to disk brakes on the front and also switch over to power brakes. I've been checking for a conversion kit, but it seems they don't make one for a 4x4. Does anyone have any suggestions? This is my 1st post so Hello to everyone. Thanks, Terry

[andrewmp6]

Try http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index.html they have a few kits talk to them on which one you need.

[kyhillbilly]

Thank you. I appreciate it.

[dennislbrooks]

I suggest swapping the front closed knuckle for a 71 up dana 44 or go with a GM 10 bolt. In my 67, I used a GM 10 bolt from an 88 blazer. I run the oem rear axle with 82 camaro rear disc with custom mounting plate. There are other possibilities.

[BLAZERMAN]

Your 1970 has a 1 year only front axle. It's the first year for open knuckle and the last year for drum brakes. This makes for a very easy swap using factory parts from a 71 up 1/2 ton axle. All you should need are the spindles, caliper brackets, calipers and wheel hubs. As far as a booster I prefer to use one from a 3/4 ton along with the prop valve, you'll have to bend up some new lines but its a pretty easy job and well worth the results.
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[kyhillbilly]

Thanks guys! I love this site already!

[kyhillbilly]

I picked my truck up in Roanoke, VA yesterday and drove it approximately 300 miles to Beattyville, KY. A few minor issues arose but for the most part the old girl carried us through. The biggest issue was a blown tire about 25 miles from home. We have a lot of work to do, (switching to disk brakes on the front and installing power brakes too). But driving it home gave us more insight into everything that we need to do. I'm sure my son will remember that trip for the rest of his life.

['63GENIII]

Funny how you never remember the turn key drivers yet you never seem to forget every project that you try to drive home! Welcome to the forum and remember... post pics!
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[kyhillbilly]

I purchased a front axle from a 1983 Chevy 4x4 (I think). I robbed the steering knuckle, and other needed parts to convert my drum brakes to disk brakes. I bolted everything up (before installing new bearings in everything) to make sure it would work. Everything bolted up fine, but my axle shaft is approximately 1/2" too short. I can't use the axle shaft from the donor axle because it won't slide into the stump (pumpkin) properly. The axle I purchased is a GM axle (probably my 1st mistake). Does anyone have any suggestions as to what my next step should be? Does anyone know where I can get Dana 44 front axle shafts for a disk brake set-up? My truck is a 1970 Chevy K-10. Thanks Guys

[b454rat]

The front you picked up is a 10 bolt, assuming it was original to the truck. The inners are gonna be different as well as the outers. I think you need to find the inners for a 73-78ish Dana 44 from a GM. Since your original axle is drum, uses a different length outer....the u-joints are different size too, but from the 73-78ish they are interchangeable between the 10 bolt...

[kyhillbilly]

Thank you so much. I'll start the hunt.

[argonaut]

1/2 ton axles are cheap. You could look for a complete one to swap in that might be cheaper and easier then piecing one together. Just a thought.
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[kyhillbilly]

Blazerman,

I picked up a booster, master cylinder, & p-valve from a mid-80's Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 for $35.00. The mounting bracket is completely different, it has 6 bolt holes (3 on each side). On the side next to the fender, it's hitting the steering shaft. I will have to modify the bracket somehow. My truck originally had manual brakes, so the master cylinder bolted to the firewall. I was just wondering if you or anyone else had run across something like this in the past.

Oh, by the way, I did the conversion from drum to disk. Everything worked out perfect, or at least it has so far, it has't been driven yet.

Thanks to everyone for your help. I will try to get my son to post some pics soon.

[Mike C]

You need to get a 69-72 brake booster. It has the appropriate brackets and linkage to work with the pedals. As you have noticed, it is COMPLETELY different than the '73 and up setup.

This is actually a good part to buy new IMO. The newest diaphragm booster in the boneyard would be 40 years old and anytime you do the brakes you should RYR all of the items with seals IMO.

Cool project!

[1malo68]

Just to let you know, if it came with manual brakes and you are converting to power disc brakes, the pedal ratio is going to be different. The brakes will be REAL touchy. If I recall, the manual brakes have about a 6 or 7 to 1 ratio and power brakes are about 5 to1. You may want to find a power brake pedal. You may want to go easy the first time you hit the brakes. FWIW.

[RANDY COX]

Originally Posted by kyhillbilly

I bought my 16 year old son a 1970 K-10. It has manual drum brakes. I want to convert to disk brakes on the front and also switch over to power brakes. I've been checking for a conversion kit, but it seems they don't make one for a 4x4. Does anyone have any suggestions? This is my 1st post so Hello to everyone. Thanks, Terry

can we see some pixs of this 70 4x4.Thanks

[kyhillbilly]

I'll try to get my son to post some pics this weekend.

Thanks for the advice about the power brake pedal. I hadn't even thought about it, but it makes perfect sense.

I have a new question. I want to replace all of the brake lines on the truck. I was thinking of using stainless steel, but the research I've done so far says the flare has to be 37 degrees instead of 45. Will this work with my present master cylinder, p-valve, and wheel cylinders? i don't want to spend the money and then find out they won't work with my existing set-up. Also, my neighbor is a mechanic, he says I may have to "curl" (make them look like a Slinky) the lines for the front brakes in order to balance out the length of the rear brake lines. I've never heard of this before. But I have seen lines that have 2 or 3 curls in them after coming out of the m/c before running on to the front brakes. I just want to make sure I do it right the first time.

Thanks guys, I appreciate all the advice.

[kyhillbilly]

I have another question. I know I'm pestering you guys to death but I don't have anyone else to ask.

I am going to replace all of the brake lines on this truck. Currently, the lines come out of the master cylinder and run down to the frame. The line to the rear brakes goes to the front of the truck, crosses over to the passenger side (underneath the radiator support) and down the length of the frame to the rear-end, where it meets the flex line over to the rear-end and from there to each wheel cylinder. My question is this. Would it make a major difference if I ran the rear brake line down the driver's side of the frame? I could save on the amount of brake line needed by doing this, but I don't want to do it if it's going to be unsafe in any way. Thanks guys.