Eaton HO72/HO52 vs. 14 Bolt FF

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Yes .Hold the Pinion still. Then move the carrier back and forth. There should be about (0.010 to 0.030") best I remember.
The Pinion housing was removed thou(right).
If so this could change things.

Pinion depth and the ring gear pressure against the ring go hand in hand.
Maybe you got lucky and the pinion is put back just like it came out.

I'm thinking I lucked out. Here is a video, sorry for the shaking not the best camera man.
https://youtu.be/0KWjT_56X3M

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

I'm thinking I lucked out. Here is a video, sorry for the shaking not the best camera man.
https://youtu.be/0KWjT_56X3M

Looks good to me.
Now you can clean it up and paint it while you got it out.

[Tdbengry]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Looks good to me.
Now you can clean it up and paint it while you got it out.

Sweet, hey I really do appreciate you answering all my questions and being straight forward. Not many people like that any more. Well have any color suggestions?

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Tdbengry

Sweet, hey I really do appreciate you answering all my questions and being straight forward. Not many people like that any more. Well have any color suggestions?

Glad I could Help. A darker shaded color is good. Pink or white will make all the oil leaks show up

[raylube]

Local junkyard has 1 ton leaf spring 62 Chevy with ho72 and a no spin label on inside of cab most likely 5.14 gear ratio. Can I swap locker or carrier in my 64 3/4 ton that has 4.56 gears with no problems. Was going to just pull out center section . What is the easiest and what is a fair price for center section

[Killer Bee]

according to this article and other posts I've read, yes, the third members are interchangeable..

https://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/a...Ton%20Upgrade/

the prevailing story on the pinion load bolt is that only early 72 had them but later both 52 and 72 had them..

fair price is difficult to estimate for something somewhat difficult to find, especially locally to avoid shipping..

if I found one within an hour drive radius, I'd give 2-300 for good third with locker..

but someone somewhere is probably selling a locker only for $500 and someone else selling a complete axle for $100

best price gauge is what's it worth to you knowing you can't order one from a catalog anywhere

if it helps at all, I'll send you $25 for the plate in the cab if it's actual plate and not a decal and you can get it out without destroying it

good luck!

[raylube]

Picked 3rd member with locker 5.14 gears an no spin plate. Along with some other parts cost me $10.

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by raylube

Picked 3rd member with locker 5.14 gears an no spin plate. Along with some other parts cost me $10.

I'd say you did pretty good on that deal. I would have paid $30 just for the plate!

[69 C10 LWB]

I’ve read through this post and there is one thing I can’t seem to find. I am getting ready to swap the Eaton out of my 65 C30 for a 14 bolt out of a 73 GMC 3/4 ton. Does anybody know if there will be any issues putting the duals on an axle that was originally in a srw truck? I know the width is different but the 4 inches shouldn’t make a difference for me.

[Captainfab]

The one issue I can thing of is whether the wheel studs are of the correct diameter and length for running duals.

[69 C10 LWB]

I know I will need longer studs. One of the things I will gain with the 14 bolt is it already has 9/16 studs so I wont have to drill the factory drums to run late model rims. My main concern is whether or not my drums will clear dually rims. I found a couple people that say 16" rims wont clear the drums.

[Captainfab]

While I have not done what you are asking, I do not understand why 16" wheels would not clear the drums. The dually's came with 16" wheels and many dually's came with the larger 13"(?) brakes.

[panel fan]

For what its worth, the rear end of my 1962 c 30 is sporting a HO 72 which came with the apparently rare 5.38 gears and as I'm not in the stump removal field I went on the hunt for alternate gearing . I've managed to scrounge up 4 more third member's with ratios 5:13 , 4:57 , 4:10 and a 3:90 which I found in a early 50s one ton panel.
I'm in the Toronto area in Canada and am not sure if the 5:38 and the 3:90 gears were more common in this area or if I just lucked out. The 5:38 is the only third member that doesn't have a side thrust adjustment screw.
I'm still running the original 235 matched to a t5 trans with a .72 0/d and have found that the 4:57 works best .
The only flaw in this set up is the lack of park brake which had been part of the original trans. I see where a kit is available for the 9 in. ford rear end to mount a disc on the drive shaft and a caliper on the rear end to achieve a park brake. Has any one tried any thing like that?

[jbclassix]

Originally Posted by panel fan

For what its worth, the rear end of my 1962 c 30 is sporting a HO 72 which came with the apparently rare 5.38 gears and as I'm not in the stump removal field I went on the hunt for alternate gearing . I've managed to scrounge up 4 more third member's with ratios 5:13 , 4:57 , 4:10 and a 3:90 which I found in a early 50s one ton panel.
I'm in the Toronto area in Canada and am not sure if the 5:38 and the 3:90 gears were more common in this area or if I just lucked out. The 5:38 is the only third member that doesn't have a side thrust adjustment screw.
I'm still running the original 235 matched to a t5 trans with a .72 0/d and have found that the 4:57 works best .
The only flaw in this set up is the lack of park brake which had been part of the original trans. I see where a kit is available for the 9 in. ford rear end to mount a disc on the drive shaft and a caliper on the rear end to achieve a park brake. Has any one tried any thing like that?

I would LOVE to see pictures of the 3.90! That's the golden rainbow unicorn.

[sweetk30]

5.38 can be useful with aftermarket gears for the 4x4 guys . you can get 5.38 for dana 60 fronts and other front axles . and the ho series has better ground clearance over a 14ff .

[panel fan]

Jeremy , I will figure out how to post pictures when I remove the 3:90 from the truck in April as I am presently out of the country , actually I'm in your country till the end of March .
I took a quick look at the crown gear before installing and it had a what I believed was a G M model number stamped on it as well as the numbers 39x10.which I understand means a 3:90 ratio which is backed up by the online sight ( ONLINE CONVERSIONS) which matches up to speeds obtained at given r.p.m. in different gears.
I assure you I was quite surprised to find the 3:90 in the housing I bought as I was expecting a 5:13

Until then
John

[Captainfab]

This is the first time I have heard of anyone having the elusive 3.90 gears.

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by panel fan

For what its worth, the rear end of my 1962 c 30 is sporting a HO 72 which came with the apparently rare 5.38 gears and as I'm not in the stump removal field I went on the hunt for alternate gearing . I've managed to scrounge up 4 more third member's with ratios 5:13 , 4:57 , 4:10 and a 3:90 which I found in a early 50s one ton panel.
I'm in the Toronto area in Canada and am not sure if the 5:38 and the 3:90 gears were more common in this area or if I just lucked out. The 5:38 is the only third member that doesn't have a side thrust adjustment screw.
I'm still running the original 235 matched to a t5 trans with a .72 0/d and have found that the 4:57 works best .
The only flaw in this set up is the lack of park brake which had been part of the original trans. I see where a kit is available for the 9 in. ford rear end to mount a disc on the drive shaft and a caliper on the rear end to achieve a park brake. Has any one tried any thing like that?

Plenty of HO 52 and 72 equipped trucks came with the parking brake on the rear rather than the trans. I would think that it would be easier to adapt one of those set ups to yours. In theory a bolt on change, and if you use something from a later truck you get self adjusters in the deal. Something to consider

[Crazyman_Stanley]

Alright fellas, I scanned through this post and didn’t really find what I was looking for, my dilemma; I have a 64 c20 with what I believe to be an h052, but I do not believe it was original to this truck: it has e-brake cables coming from the drums that are just hanging in the air not attached to anything and the truck has the original brake on the drive line itself next to the shifter. ANYWAY, I starting going through the rear end this weekend and decided to replace the wheel bearings and check the brakes. I bought wheel bearing “for a 64 c20” from the local oreilly and got to the pain in the ass task of swapping them out. I finally managed to get the outer bearing and race pressed into one of the drum/hub assemblies then went to press in the inner bearing race and that’s when I realized I had the wrong size: they were about 1/16 of an inch too narrow on the OD compared to the hole in the hub. The bearings were National KD11786Y same as listed here: https://torqueking.com/product/51168...r-axles/#note1 So I returned the bearing but now I’m stuck: what inner wheel bearings do I need? Any ideas? Thanks for your help
Posted via Mobile Device

[jdl71]

Originally Posted by Crazyman_Stanley

Alright fellas, I scanned through this post and didn’t really find what I was looking for, my dilemma; I have a 64 c20 with what I believe to be an h052, but I do not believe it was original to this truck: it has e-brake cables coming from the drums that are just hanging in the air not attached to anything and the truck has the original brake on the drive line itself next to the shifter. ANYWAY, I starting going through the rear end this weekend and decided to replace the wheel bearings and check the brakes. I bought wheel bearing “for a 64 c20” from the local oreilly and got to the pain in the ass task of swapping them out. I finally managed to get the outer bearing and race pressed into one of the drum/hub assemblies then went to press in the inner bearing race and that’s when I realized I had the wrong size: they were about 1/16 of an inch too narrow on the OD compared to the hole in the hub. The bearings were National KD11786Y same as listed here: https://torqueking.com/product/51168...r-axles/#note1 So I returned the bearing but now I’m stuck: what inner wheel bearings do I need? Any ideas? Thanks for your help
Posted via Mobile Device

I replaced mine earlier this year but I’ll have to dig for the part #s. I got mine at NAPA and what it called for was what I needed. Are you certain you have an ho52?

[Crazyman_Stanley]

Originally Posted by jdl71

I replaced mine earlier this year but I’ll have to dig for the part #s. I got mine at NAPA and what it called for was what I needed. Are you certain you have an ho52?

Pretty sure, it’s def an Eaton and has 11 x 2 3/4” drums
Posted via Mobile Device

[jdl71]

Mine is a k20 with 12” drums, but after thinking this over I believe I just repacked the bearings and replaced the seals. Are your bearings in bad shape?

[Crazyman_Stanley]

The bearings don’t seem to be in horrible shape but the real problem is that I removed the races destructively, so they need to be replaced.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Crazyman_Stanley]

I think the bearing I was supplied might have even been the right ones but the races were wrong. Just small enough that they would fall into place and I could rattle them back and forth, like I said, maybe 1/16” gap
Posted via Mobile Device

[kehstr]

What a thread! I have been trying to find info on the eaton HO series for a little while now. But now I know where to turn for all my questions! Thank you all for the effort in putting this together