Ls swap questions...

[Andyking1203]

I have a 68 c10 shorty that I'm doing a frame off on, and I decided to put a ls 5.3 in it, (buying a 2000 1500 for 400 bucks)!!! So i know i need the engine wiring and computer, but what else do i need or what's is suggested to steal outta the '00 to make the conversion easyish.. thanks for the help

[mongocanfly]

If you have the space then keep the truck until done...but basically all you need is the engine,maf,ecm...and pedal if it's dbw...if you want to do your own harness then you'll need that as well... are you keeping the 4l60?
You stole that truck for 400...

[Jstock85]

Drive by wire or drive by cable throttle?

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

If you have the space then keep the truck until done...but basically all you need is the engine,maf,ecm...and pedal if it's dbw...if you want to do your own harness then you'll need that as well... are you keeping the 4l60?
You stole that truck for 400...

It's a 4wd truck, and my 68 is 2wd, rest is going up for sale or junked..

[mongocanfly]

So what are your plans for a trans?

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by Jstock85

Drive by wire or drive by cable throttle?

I think it should be by cable

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

So what are your plans for a trans?

Sell it

[mongocanfly]

I meant what trans are you gonna put in your 68 behind the 5.3?

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I meant what trans are you gonna put in your 68 behind the 5.3?

Kinda depends what I can find.. I can buy a reman 4l65e for about 1k locally..

[Andyking1203]

So back to the original question, I know if it's a dbw system I'll need the gas pedal, and the motor harness, and computer, I guess I'm more curious about the hydro boost brake booster, and how many ohms is the fuel pump?

[Jstock85]

You'll probable want to keep enough of the exhaust system for the front O2 sensors. Mine was DBC and I kept the throttle cable as well. I also kept the breather box system even though I want to use a cold air intake. May want to see if you can use the radiator. You will probably have to change the fuel pump system because of the size the factory tank won't fit in the 68. Cant speak on the breakes, I have an 85 and just connected a vacuum line from my intake to the booster. and yes you got a killer deal for $400!!!!!

[mongocanfly]

I have no idea what ohms for a fuel pump would mean...but you'll need a fuel pump capable of at least 65psi...I used a walbro 255 external pump and vett filter reg..is the donor a return type fuel system from the rail? What are your plans for the fuel system?
On the hydroboost ...clarify a little...does the 68 have it or the donor truck?....if on the donor, are you wanting to use it on the 68?...what are your concerns...

[Clyde65]

Your fuel gauge will not be controlled by the PCM.

The hydroboost would be a great addition to your truck, great stopping power but if you have vac booster power brakes now, you don’t have to convert.

You need minimum 58 psi fuel pressure at the rail so the Walbro 255 will work, have a pre and a post pump filter ( 100micron and the 10 micron.

Good luck!!

[1971Stepside]

I would grab the hydroboost off your donor and the lines for your brakes and power steering.

[Andyking1203]

The hydro boost is on the doner truck, the 68 is stripped down to nothing.. if I dont keep the hydro then yes I'll be buying a new power booster and master cylinder, as for the fuel pump I was gonna get a aftermarket rear mounted tank setup, the psi helps, thanks!!! As for the air intake, I think I'm gonna do a custom "ram air" style on it.. and as far as the o2 sensors, when I buy exhaust it should come with the pieces in the pipe to screw the sensors in, correct?

[Clyde65]

Sometimes the headers come with the weld in bungs but if you use a local exhaust shop they will have them and probably cheaper

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Sometimes the headers come with the weld in bungs but if you use a local exhaust shop they will have them and probably cheaper

Which is what I kinda planned on..

[Andyking1203]

So I got the diner home, and my plan is to put a 4l80e behind the rebuilt 500hp 5.3.. not sure how to rotate.. sry

[Clyde65]

Just curious.....How are you gonna get 500HP out of a 5.3?

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by Clyde65

Just curious.....How are you gonna get 500HP out of a 5.3?

Hopefully the engine rebuild can help out with that.. not gonna use a turbo or anything of the sort... including nitrous!!! If I xant hit the 500 I'll get what I can

[BR3W CITY]

Doable, but it won't stay a 5.3 anymore.

[Andyking1203]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Doable, but it won't stay a 5.3 anymore.

Not really worried about it staying a 5.3... just hope it stays streetable...

[Kawabuggy]

500 Hp at the tires, or at the flywheel? At the flywheel will take heads, cam, tune, and larger injectors. At the tire... Whoo.. That's going to take a LOT if you want to stay naturally aspirated. 500 at the tire is going to be stroker crank, higher compression either through smaller chamber heads, or domed pistons, or some combination of both, aftermarket CNC'ed heads, BIG valves, BIG cam, after-market rocker arms, E85 potentially, lot's of tuning, LT headers, BIG Y pipe, and lots of other things..

You would be $$ ahead just putting together a low compression 5.3 with stock heads, cam, rods, crank, and then putting a turbo on it. It will EASILY meet your HP goal, at HALF the cost of doing it naturally aspirated. Further, you won't have to twist the engine to the stratosphere to build HP. The turbo, depending on how you size it, will make power from 2500RPM and above.. Naturally aspirated, you may get 500 at the tire, but it will be at 6500RPM or higher.. Street vehicles need torque, and HP, down LOW in the RPM range because that's where they spend 95% of their time.. A turbo is absolutely the best approach for your goals. A turbo will also keep it streetable because it will idle like stock, have great street manners-no stalling, no hesitation. Try that with a BIG cam on a naturally aspirated motor. The high idle speeds alone will drive you mad. Sitting in bumper to bumper traffic with your engine idling at 950RPM OR MORE get's old really fast. Naturally aspirated is OUT.. Turbos are IN if you want REAL power. If you just want something driveable that makes decent power so you can spin the wheels sometimes, then go naturally aspirated and keep the cam on the smaller side-like in the 220-228 degree duration window. Anything more than that you begin sacrificing street manners. Yes, there are many that are running BIG cams on the street and those same people will tell you it's not a problem... Ask to borrow their car and drive it around for 30 minutes in traffic, with multiple stop signs or red lights. It gets old very quickly.

All of this is just my opinion so take what you need, leave the rest behind.

[Andyking1203]

Thanks for the opinion,
I have thought about a turbo or even a procharger!! And yes I want it to be street friendly.. maybe the 500hp is a little ambitious.. but it would be fun!!! Itll most likely be 400 at the crank.. I'm a long ways off from haven the motor built as the truck is still in 4000 pieces in my garage..
Another question will a stock 4l80e handle the 4 to 500 hp I wanna have? Also if someone has a easy answer to this, when I have the stand alone harness done, how does it "plug" into the ignition system of a stock wired truck? Yes I have the eco which will be refreshed by the same company that's doing the harness.? Thanks

[mongocanfly]

sounds like you need to just find you a stock LS3...