292 I-6 Rocker Arms

[ncoonen]

Originally Posted by Mike_The_Grad

Any update???

Well damn! I thought I had updated this thread after I reassembled the engine. The Elgin RK402 rockers and a fresh set of stock pushrods seem to be working fine. I haven't driven the truck alot but there was one high speed road trip where the engine ran strong and smoothly. (until the rubber fuel line from the tank to the pump collapsed)

The big gotcha for me was that with a 292 in this vintage truck you cannot just drop the pushrods in with the head torqued in place. I ended up drilling a small hole in the cowl to lift the last pushrod up through so it would drop in. I think you might be able to finagle the back pushrod(s) in while the head is still dangling on your cherry picker but after torquing it down, I took the easy way out.

Thanks for the reminder Mike. I really meant to finish up this story a long time ago but apparently never got to it.

...ned.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by ncoonen

Well damn! I thought I had updated this thread after I reassembled the engine. The Elgin RK402 rockers and a fresh set of stock pushrods seem to be working fine. I haven't driven the truck alot but there was one high speed road trip where the engine ran strong and smoothly. (until the rubber fuel line from the tank to the pump collapsed)

The big gotcha for me was that with a 292 in this vintage truck you cannot just drop the pushrods in with the head torqued in place. I ended up drilling a small hole in the cowl to lift the last pushrod up through so it would drop in. I think you might be able to finagle the back pushrod(s) in while the head is still dangling on your cherry picker but after torquing it down, I took the easy way out.

Thanks for the reminder Mike. I really meant to finish up this story a long time ago but apparently never got to it

...ned.

Oh Yeah. The old Cylinders 5 + 6 under the Cowling Gripe. BTDT. Drilling holes under the ''alcove'' occured to me, but there's too much stuff inside a '68 cab to deal with when cutting there.
I didn't have to pull the pushrods when changing out exhaust valve springs.
I took the prybar style valve spring compressor tool, and found if I drilled and ground a 1'' long almond-shaped hole in the bar and flipped it upside down, I could compress the springs underhand while my Buddy put the 2 valve spring retaining clips back on. Because taking off the radiator, dismounting the motor mounts, disconnecting the transmission and moving the block 6 - 10'' forward would suck big time.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Ncoonen, Glad to hear you got it back on the road. Sucks you had to drill into the cowl to get that last pushrod in. Now it's in the back of my mind for future reference. So if/when an issue arises with the 292 I just built for my dads 64 c10 ill know my options and how to break the news to my dad. Lol.

[Llay R. Rac]

its been about 30 years since i last had my pushrods out of my 292. if i remember correctly, all i had to do was disconnect the motor mounts and tilt the engine slightly using a jack under the oil pan.
i had an 92 year old guy show me that trick.