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Old 07-05-2019, 08:00 PM   #26
vince1
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

The second reason this engine had to come apart is because the compression rings in #6 piston were rusted tight in their grooves. I guess all that gasoline that was in the pan must have made its way down through #6 intake valve. 79's didn't have electric fuel pumps did they?

Anyway, pistons are in.

I don't know how current this sheet is that came with the cam but they recommend Delo 400, Delvac or Rotella T for break in oil. I think I'll buy a 5 gal pail of one of them and keep on using it for my flat tappet engines.
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Old 07-05-2019, 11:43 PM   #27
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

None of the current diesel oils have sufficient ZDDP in them for a flat tappet cam. The use of diesel oils is outdated thinking. You need either a specific break in oil or a break in additive.

Do you have the rear main seal installed in the block and rear main cap? And is it facing the correct direction?
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:04 AM   #28
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Since it's a small cam and stock valve springs I don't think break in will be a problem. I never used any type of break in oil when installing camshafts. I figured the paste that came with the cam was good enough.
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:11 AM   #29
vince1
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

I pulled the rear cap and did apply the sealant where the picture shows to do it. The seal lip is pointed inwards so that the oil will get under it and push it outwards, like it is supposed to.

About the oil, my next plan is to get some cam oil that is specially formulated with extra ZDDP for flat tappet engines by the Boss oil company. It is available here locally at some Napa stores.

How did the gas get in the oil? In my 66 it happened after buying a new gas cap. Air could enter like when it got cold out but come spring time when it is warm it would pressurize. I drilled a hole to fix that problem. I guess I'll never know how it happened on the 79 donor truck.

Opinions are welcome on what colour to paint the engine? I have a white car that has a red engine and red interior so I think I have enough red. The 66 truck is green and I am leaning towards keeping the engine in its original 79 blue.
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:25 PM   #30
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Since you opened it to opinion's
I vote Chevy Orange.
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:05 PM   #31
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Paint it ford red!
After many heat cycles the color will fade to a new looking Chevy orange.
Fuel can get in the oil from carb flooding or a blown fuel pump diaphragm.
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Old 07-06-2019, 03:34 PM   #32
vince1
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Well it just so happens that I have a half can of Ford red and I would need to buy the blue so still time to decide on that one.

Because the rings were rusted in #6 piston tells me it came down through the intake and the oil was really diluted like by probably 80%. I think that had to have come from more than just a flooding carburetor while running and probably happened when it was parked. I do know that the pintle in the carb was bad. Thanks on the tip though on the fuel pump. How does one check if the diaphragm is leaking or not?

Last edited by vince1; 07-06-2019 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 04:01 PM   #33
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Excess fuel doesn’t rust rings in to place. It washes the oil off the walls and causes piston or wall scuffing. And it’s not bore selective. It’ll wash all the cylinders. Musta been some water.
Easy to check a leaking fuel pump. It doesn’t pump fuel like it should. Just a pinhole in the diaphragm will reduce the pump output and still push fuel into the crankcase.

Educate me!
What’s a pintle in the carb?
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:54 PM   #34
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

I meant the float needle. Maybe pintle wasn't the right word.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pintle
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Old 07-07-2019, 12:03 AM   #35
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Maybe you got confused with how the needle is made.
It has a viton tip.
Similar words.
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Old 07-21-2019, 05:36 PM   #36
vince1
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

I made a little strap to pick up one of the oil pump cover plate holes and wrap around the pipe to prevent the screen from falling out.

The timing chain seems a little tight but I suppose it will wear in fairly quickly.

Some of the lifters seem a bit tight too but I think they will be OK.

I cleaned up the head bolts and push rods. The push rods have a little bit of corrosion pitting where they went through the head so I think I'll just flip them upside down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EGlb_VpTAw

I like this guys video on how to adjust valves.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:33 PM   #37
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

That was an hilarious video!
Thanks for that!
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Old 07-21-2019, 09:02 PM   #38
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

That is a good video. I think I saw it a few years ago and forgot about it. I have always done it the hard way but also with the intake off. You know he's legit 5 minutes in when he says not to soak your lifters. I have been arguing with people for years about that. You can get away with it on a Chevy but an Olds or Caddy won't start with the lifters pumped up. Then you learn. I hope I remember this Ellison Method next time I have to adjust valves. Your valves won't tick Vince if you follow that video. You can seal those valve covers right on and forget it.
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Old Yesterday, 09:52 AM   #39
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Re: 79 350 overhaul

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillac_al View Post
Since it's a small cam and stock valve springs I don't think break in will be a problem. I never used any type of break in oil when installing camshafts. I figured the paste that came with the cam was good enough.
For stock cams and valve springs, I use the moly paste on the lobes and lifter faces, of course, along with CompCams #159 break-in additive. Then run the engine between 1500 and 2000 RPM for 20-30 minutes to mate the lifters to the cam. (Continually varying the RPM lets the crank and rods slosh oil on different parts of the cam.)

After that, change the oil and you should be good to go. I have used regular 10W-30 oil with stock cams, and even mild performance cams and valve springs (with slower old school ramps like Summit Racing cams). But you can get a little more insurance with Valvoline Racing 10W-30 which has higher amounts of zinc and phosphate than most regular oils.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/v...EaAiBiEALw_wcB
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