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Old 05-22-2017, 12:14 AM   #26
vancelot69
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

So I cleaned up one of those OE valve covers about as good as I could using 2 cans of carb cleaner since I don't have a parts cleaner tub (Maybe I should get one of those from Harbor Freight! But as of now I would have used it once haha). I got it pretty dang clean, but I know I didn't get it spotless, and I'm a little afraid of some of that 25 year old gunk dropping into the engine. So, I was thinking about buying a set of valve covers that are already baffled. I saw on another thread that someone got Edelbrock #4449 valve covers, and looking on Summit Racing, it says they are baffled and the pics look baffled, but in the thread, the poster said there was no oil filler cap hole in them. So, anyone have any experience with any aftermarket valve covers, that are baffled, with or without the filler cap hole, that you would recommend?

Or: jaros44sr - do you have pics of the valve covers you have? Are they clean? How much do they weigh, or how much would shipping be to 76148?

I also replaced the oil filler cap with a breather on the passenger's side.
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Old 05-29-2017, 02:42 PM   #27
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

I just ordered these Spectre valve covers. Anyone have any experience with them?
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:17 PM   #28
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

It takes a lot of finesse and patience to do an engine. Without the experience of having done it before the risks get higher. I think the suggestions are to give you a high probability of success.

If you really want to do it, the small-block Chevy is pretty forgiving. There is a good book by David Vizard (https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Y.../dp/1557880298). I'm using that book on mine. But I've already done several valve jobs and a complete Ford FE 390 V-8.

Summit has a set of cheap micrometers that are not quite machinist grade, but still can tell you if the engine has been machined oversize on the cylinder bores or undersize on the crank journals.

I'm rebuilding mine because the previous rebuilder used standard rod bearings on a 0.010 undersize crank. It made quite a noise. ;-)

And as a fallback position (if something is seriously wrong with the engine, or goes bad during the rebuild) a crate engine would be a safety net.

Good luck!


Quote:
Originally Posted by vancelot69 View Post
Well, I don't know anything about vacuum other than if the hoses aren't connected properly it won't run right. However, I have rebuilt a few engines in the past and just made sure the vacuum lines were connected like they were before I took the engine out, although the last time I did that was over 20 years ago.

Is it because I don't know if valve covers will fit from year to year? Or because I don't know about the crankcase pressure? Yeah, I had no idea that would cause oil to blow out the seals.

Seems to me like $83 for a re-ring kit, or even $400 for one of the more expensive ones, is a heck of a lot cheaper than $6000 for a crate engine...
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Old 06-16-2017, 04:25 PM   #29
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

Looking at your pictures again, there is a lot of oil on the lower driver's side around the filter. Are you sure the filter gasket is good and not loose or squashed in a bad position? Is it possible that you have an oil pressure line or sending unit for the gauge that is loose or failing?
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Old 06-18-2017, 12:11 PM   #30
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

I'm not sure. A few weeks ago, I put on a new power steering gear because a friend of a friend who is a mechanic told me that that is what was blowing petroleum all over the exhaust and making it smoke. After I got it on, I wiped down 3 spots on the bottom side of the engine - the oil pan drain plug, the oil filter, and the timing cover. Then I took it out for a short drive, about 5 miles, and only got it up to about 45-50, but by the time I got back home, I saw smoke that looked like it was coming from under the front passenger side fender, so I jumped out to see if I could see where it was coming from but it had already stopped by then. I climbed under it and the three spots I wiped down were still dry, but I saw some other wet spots. At this time, I didn't wipe them down.

Fast forward to yesterday. Yesterday morning I got out and wiped down the other couple of spots - the sides of the bell housing (the flat spot where the dust cover mounts to), the input shaft to the transmission / throwout bearing, and the output shaft on the engine / rear main seal, then went to the local off-road park. Got it up to 55+, but most likely no faster than 65, off roaded for a bit, then drove home. In the course of that time, I did have to add a quart of oil, but all of the spots I wiped down were still dry, maybe a slight hint of dampness on the input and output shafts and timing cover. During the drive home, going up one particular hill, it felt like it had no power, and the lifters were chattering like crazy, and my wife said she saw black smoke coming from the exhaust. So, the thought crossed my mind if those Spectre valve covers I got don't have correct baffling, or if I didn't set up the PCV correctly and it's still consuming oil, or if perhaps whoever rebuilt the engine before didn't set the ring gaps opposite each other, or if the improper PCV setup before messed up the rings or valves?

The carburetor is manual choke, and there is no choke handle in the cab, so it's basically not choked, so I have been thinking about either getting a carb with electronic choke or something, or swapping to an EFI kit, or doing an LS swap, but all of those except the carb are too expensive (for me) right now.

My friend's mechanic friend said that the lifter chatter could most likely be attributed to being out of time. This engine still has the old points and condenser style ignition, and I have been thinking about replacing it with electronic ignition. I have seen a few threads on these boards where people suggest to use the electronic distributors from newer Chevy small blocks, but I haven't found any reviews on this site on after market electronic distributors, like MSD or Accel. I'm not concerned about it looking original, I just want it to be reliable as a daily driver and part time off roading / road tripping / camping / overlanding / blah blah etc. etc.

Maybe the combination of the carb/EFI and ignition would be worth it to save a few bucks more and do the LS swap...

edit: added more to the second paragraph.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:05 PM   #31
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

The "lifter chatter" under load you hear is most likely pinging caused by too much advance in your timing. The black smoke is unburned fuel (white = water, blue = oil, black = gas). You are running very rich. Sounds like you have some tuning of the distributor and carb to do.

If you have any sort of oil baffles in the new valve covers, they should be adequate to keep the PCV valve from sucking in oil. So apparently this is not the cause of your massive oil consumption. Have you performed a compression test on all the cylinders? It sounds like you may be pressurizing your crankcase with cylinder blow-by. This will cause all the crankcase seals to leak under this added pressure. A compression test on the cylinders will tell you if you are having sealing issues in the cylinders possibly attributed to bad rings or valves.
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:57 PM   #32
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

Thanks cleszkie!
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:12 AM   #33
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

oh, forgot to answer: no, I haven't done a compression test. After reading that reply, I've been meaning to, but I keep not making time / doing other things. My dad has a small one, that is just press on and hold, like this one. Should I spring for a screw in type? One article I read said to disconnect the fuel line so it's not pumping gas into the cylinders (I assume before the fuel pump). In another thread, someone mentioned doing a leak down test. Would that be something y'all would suggest I do as well?

Thanks again!
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:49 AM   #34
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

Another item I forgot to mention - while off roading, and on the drive home, it kind of over heated. That is, the temp gauge doesn't work, but when I stopped for a moment, coolant was spewing from somewhere, I assume from the tube at the filler neck, but I don't know for sure - the radiator could have a hole somewhere, or one or both of the hoses could have holes (I can see a rusty waterfall from the inlet), or a co-worker suggested that it looks like the water pump is about to go out because he said the pulley is wobbly. Do I need an overflow tank? Also, it doesn't have a fan shroud - should I get one? And do I need a 4-row radiator? Or will the one that's in it be ok (see pics)?
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Old Yesterday, 08:24 PM   #35
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

ok, I finally got around to pulling the plugs and doing a compression check. The plugs looks awful. In the page in the Haynes manual that has the spark plug pics, it looks like the one that says "too hot" (see pics), which doesn't surprise me, what with everything coupled together - I believe it's not timed right, plus I don't know how to set points; I don't know how to tune a carburetor, so it could be running lean or rich, adding to it; someone at work suggested that my water pump is about to go out, which I have no reason not to believe; someone else said I need a 4-row radiator (I think mine is 2-row, and I think there's a leak from the inlet - see pics above). Probably wouldn't hurt to get new hoses too. I checked the gap on 4 of the spark plugs I took out. 2 were over .040 (1 & 7), one was almost right at .040 (8) and one was about .035 (2).

As far as the compression check, I tried to use that old press in type, but I couldn't hold it tight enough, so I bought one that has screw in adapters, and here's how that broke down (anything not a 0 or 5 is estimating because it was between the lines on the gauge):
1 - 130 - 130
3 - 120 - 120
5 - 125 - 125
7 - 118 - 124 - 126

2 - 133 - 133
4 - 110 - 115 - 125 - 125
6 - 110 - 115 - 122 - 123
8 - 130 - 130

I think the low reading on 7 is because I didn't spin it long enough to let it build up to where the needle stopped moving.

I think the low readings on 4 & 6 are because I didn't get the connector screwed in tight because after the two low readings, I tried to tighten is some more and did it the next two times and got readings more in line with the rest of the cylinders. It is odd though, that I mis-tightened both 4 & 6, since they share a sliver of head gasket...

pics below spark plug order: 8-6-4-2 - 1-3-5-7
close up pics are 2 at a time starting from the left on the zoomed out pic.
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Old Yesterday, 08:29 PM   #36
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

I also grabbed an OEM HEI distributor out of a 75 or 79 GMC with a 350 from my dad's place over the weekend. It looks like it needs a tune up, so I was going to, at the very least, get a cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, and a water pump, but I'm thinking maybe I should just pony up for the complete distributor so I can be sure the distributor's guts are good to go as well.
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Old Yesterday, 09:28 PM   #37
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

You really need to get a fan shroud and a overflow bottle on it so it stands a chance of stay cool especially in this heat.
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Old Today, 02:26 AM   #38
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Re: valve covers, engine rebuild, other stuff

Those are definitely on the list!
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