230 Oil Change - Everyone has an opinion

[Slemmy]

Doing my first oil change on my '65 LWB with a 230. Seems there are lots of differing opinions on here, except for which oil to use: 10w-40 Shell Rotella Diesel seems to be the go-to. But there are differing opinions on the process.

Some say to fill the canister, others not. What damage could be done by not filling the canister, but filling the case with 4 quarts, and letting the engine run for a few minutes to fill the canister itself, and then checking the levels again to top it off (I've heard 5 quarts is about right to fill)?

I'd also like to hear what oil capacities the members have experienced with a 230.

Thanks!

[Captainfab]

I wouldn't recommend diesel spec oil. It does not have sufficient ZDDP in it any more. I would use a oil specifically for a flat tappet gas engine such as Lucas Hot Rod oil or Joe Gibbs oil. Alternately you could use standard off the shelf oil and add a bottle of ZDDP Plus to it. Filling the oil filter with oil just ensures that the bearings do not run without pressurized oil for any length of time. However that is a little difficult to do on an I6 with the oil filter mounting horizontally. You can still add some oil to the filter. You just can not fill it completely.

[vince1]

Somewhere on this forum there is a link to a study on oil testing by an engineer where he recorded the results of testing different brands and how additives affected the results. From reading the article I remember that many of the oils performed worse with the additives than without. Anybody know what happened to that study because there sure was a lot of good info there?

[Captainfab]

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm

[68gmsee]

Agree that there is a ton of opinions out there on oil for engines. Everyone has one. Some opinions get passed down through the generations others through actual experience. Pennzoil is a good example. Several years ago I read an article about the Pennzoil problems and, yes, they did have a problem years go but it was rectified, however, the dislike for the oil persists. I personally haven't seen any problems with it. I owned an 86 old that I used Pennzoil on and it went over 340,000 miles without an engine problem other than routine maintenance.

I have owned and worked on my own and other vehicles for over 40 years and have used Exxon oil, Castrol, Mobile one and Pennzoil mostly. I drove a lot of miles before retiring and most vehicles went way over 200K miles before trading them in or selling them. What I found out is that if you follow a good oil changing routine schedule and stay with the same brand as much as possible you should be okay. I usually change the oil and filter at no more than 5K miles and every 6 months on my 68 GMC since I don't drive it that much.

[cadillac_al]

My opinion is that the old 230 with stock small cam and light valve springs can run just about any oil. I am also of the opinion (shared my many others) that ZDPP isn't the only consideration in whether an oil can perform its duty. I think the 230 would be happy with any name brand oil anywhere from 10w30 up to 15w40. When you get into high performance high lift cams and stiff valve springs then you will have a reason to research higher quality high performance oils. Just my .02

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

Agree that there is a ton of opinions out there on oil for engines. Everyone has one. Some opinions get passed down through the generations others through actual experience. Pennzoil is a good example. Several years ago I read an article about the Pennzoil problems and, yes, they did have a problem years go but it was rectified, however, the dislike for the oil persists. I personally haven't seen any problems with it. I owned an 86 old that I used Pennzoil on and it went over 340,000 miles without an engine problem other than routine maintenance.

I've been using Pennzoil since the 1970's. Even when they had the problems from their "paraffin based" oils. I personally never had a problem with any of their oils. Ever. Engines were/are always clean inside with no sludge buildup. I use Pennzoil to this day.

I think everybody for a period in time jumped on the Rotella bandwagon because they were one of the last diesel oils to keep ZDDP levels fairly high. Now even they have only a tad bit of ZDDP. So they aren't a "safe" option for an engine requiring ZDDP.

Gary

[vince1]

Lots to read here.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=3124298

[68gmsee]

One other thing about older engines and new gasoline and oils.

Some years ago I spoke with my machinist about installing hardened valve seats on my 68 GMC and wanted to know the cost of doing the work. He asked if I was having any problem with them and I said no but told him I wanted to circumvent any future problems.

His response was there was no need to spend the money now. He said wait until you start having problems. I asked how long that would be and he said he didn't really know. He had a stock 65 truck he'd been driving for about 20 years and still had full compression.

[HO455]

And yet more to read.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=381780

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articl...lterstudy.html

[D13]

I have found once the cam is broken in a stockish inline doesn't care what oil is in it. I ran 10w30 for 300,000 miles in the old 250, then 20W50 for the last 100, 000 to slow the monster oil leak and compensate for bearing wear. The big key is regular changes, these old motors have a lot of blowby and the oil gets dirty.
I have never had an oil related failure in any of my family's vehicles, and they got a lot of miles and cheap oil. I've always run Valvoline if I could afford it, I never run Mobil. the waxing issues with Penzoil and Quaker State were real in the 70's, but the eastern oil fields are not a significant source any more.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Slemmy

Doing my first oil change on my '65 LWB with a 230. Seems there are lots of differing opinions on here, except for which oil to use: 10w-40 Shell Rotella Diesel seems to be the go-to. But there are differing opinions on the process.

Some say to fill the canister, others not. What damage could be done by not filling the canister, but filling the case with 4 quarts, and letting the engine run for a few minutes to fill the canister itself, and then checking the levels again to top it off (I've heard 5 quarts is about right to fill)?

I'd also like to hear what oil capacities the members have experienced with a 230.

Thanks!

Don't use diesel oil as it is highly acidic. Run 10W-30 or 0W-30 with Power Punch additive and drive the wheels off it. Unless you run a higher quality oil like Rotella or Joe Gibbs(comp cam's) then use the power punch additive. I'm sure someone here will try to tell me it's useless but no it's not. Running it in my 64 305 v6...with straight napa high mileage 20w-50 it would burn a quart every month...now with the power punch additive it's been almost 2 months and it hasn't burned any to be noticed. Stuff works good and your engine will thank you. Doesn't matter how "bullet proof" an engine is....run crap for oil get crap for results or shortened engine life. With a good additive or high quality oil and a Good filter(don't get me started on those) your engine will be much happier in the long run.

['68OrangeSunshine]

On an L6, with the side-saddle oil filter, pre-filling the oil filter at oil changes is pointless. It will fill about 30 seconds after you crank the starter if your distributor is cranking the oil pump properly, and there it is. Pre-filling the filter could spill some oil on the deck, and then you'll have to clean it up. I just dip my finger in the clean oil and moisten the rubber gasket on the oil filter before I spin it on.
As for oil, the old school oil is the best for old school engines. I use Valvoline SAE 30 Racing. It has enough ZDDP already without needing extra additives [which can increase the acidity of the oil]. The viscousity needed can vary with the elapsed mileage. Thicker oil for-more worn rings. 20-W50 might be a good choice if there are a lot of temperature swings in your normal climate.
Check the Owners Manual for oil pan capacity. I have a 292. They have a deeper [6 Qt] oil pan than 230/250s. I would guess 4-5 Qts, but I've only had 292s.