Ben Jammin's 1955 Chevy/GMC Project

[bensimmons_05]

working out in the shop on some patch panels today. If anyone wants to tune in live the link is below!

[entourageguy]

Well that a first for me.
Arm chair body work. Grab a beer and watch him grind.

[bensimmons_05]

Bit by bit

[renegade6]

Looks really good.

[ChuckDriver]

Nice work!

[bensimmons_05]

Thanks for the kind words guys! I'll be working on the patch panels a bit more tonight.

[bensimmons_05]

Until about 2 weeks ago I had never welded a patch panel ever.

Now, for whatever reason, I have decided making them was the way to go when I could. I'm about to get too big for my britches!!!

I think the second one came out ok, its not perfect, but I think it will do.

[Kim57]

They look good to me.
I try to make my own whenever possible. It's a lot cheaper that way.
Kim

[bensimmons_05]

One more. I haven't welded them in yet, but I plan to in the next couple days. I am waiting on the lower hinge pockets on the front to come in.

Thanks Kim!!

[longbike]

Cool!! Thats one way to get her done, Looks great!!

[watahyahknow]

if you get a chunk of copper you can hold that on the back of the gaps and fill it with weld you can break of the copper block after you closed the gap with weld , doesnt give too big boogerwelds on the back of it should give you a good enough result ..... only tagweld dont put too mush heat in there or the plate will pull and warp all over the place , no gaps is better offcourse

[Kim57]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

if you get a chunk of copper you can hold that on the back of the gaps and fill it with weld you can break of the copper block after you closed the gap with weld , doesnt give too big boogerwelds on the back of it should give you a good enough result ..... only tagweld dont put too mush heat in there or the plate will pull and warp all over the place , no gaps is better offcourse

This works pretty slick. I made my own copper backer out of a 12" piece of 1" pipe that I flattened on one end.
Kim

[bensimmons_05]

Hey thanks for the info. The copper pipe seems like a good idea, that is probably what I'll do. Thanks!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by bensimmons_05

Until about 2 weeks ago I had never welded a patch panel ever.

Now, for whatever reason, I have decided making them was the way to go when I could. I'm about to get too big for my britches!!!

YOU'RE getting too big for your britches? I'm planning to do some rust repair on my truck using a MIG I bought and I have NEVER MIG welded before! It's been 30+ years since I stick welded and I sucked then

What gauge sheet metal are you using and I'm curious where you're getting it? I was wondering if I could find it at Home Cheapo since I need so little of it.

[watahyahknow]

mig welding is a LOT eazier you dont have to strike it to get it to go , you can first point it before getting youre helmet closed and press the trigger to go and you dont have to work with a rod that keeps getting shorter and need to replace every minute or so , as long as you have a steady hand or can work with both hands you will get a lot better results right from the start once you got the tune of the welder correct

[bensimmons_05]

Hey Dan, you can get some small pieces at Lowe's. They jumped from 22ga to 16 ga. though. 22 was definately too thin and 16 was a little thick. Original was 18-19ga. I went to a local metal mill and got a 4x8 sheet of 18ga for about $45. That was a deal in my eyes! That is more than I will need for a long time. And if you set your MIG right, it is a breeze.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks for the encouragement - I NEED it! ha ha. I still have to get a bottle/gas and of course a helmet, glove, etc. It's a barely used Hobart Handler 140 I bought from a guy stepping up to a 220v unit. Of course the other challenge is getting the nerve to start cutting out metal!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by bensimmons_05

Hey Dan, you can get some small pieces at Lowe's. They jumped from 22ga to 16 ga. though. 22 was definately too thin and 16 was a little thick. Original was 18-19ga. I went to a local metal mill and got a 4x8 sheet of 18ga for about $45. That was a deal in my eyes! That is more than I will need for a long time. And if you set your MIG right, it is a breeze.

Thanks VERY much for the info. "...and if you set up your MIG right, it is a breeze..." Uh huh, how exactly do I do that? Trial and error since I don't have a clue...unless you have recommendations...please

[bensimmons_05]

Haha, it definitely takes a little NERVE! You'll do fine, just take it slow and always cut off less than you need to. You want to have to grind a little to make if fit perfect (from what I hear and read) All I have is a 110v flux core welder. Yours should work even better!

[watahyahknow]

get a helmet with an automatic visor ..... ask wish one you need as there different darknesses for the glass , it helps a lot when you can keep the helmet down and still see when working , its worth the little extra cost

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Thanks VERY much for the info. "...and if you set up your MIG right, it is a breeze..." Uh huh, how exactly do I do that? Trial and error since I don't have a clue...unless you have recommendations...please

When I got my welder I drillled and cut an old fender I had laying around. Started on the lowest heat setting and speed and gave it a try. Moved up a notch and tried again. I kept a log of what seemed to work best for each type of work (body, brackets, etc.). I parcticed a lot on that old fender and still use is as a "tune up" before hitting the real thing.

[Russell Ashley]

On my Lincoln there is a chart under the side panel that gives suggested voltage and wire speed setting for different thickness material and shielding gas being used. Take a look, the Hobart may have something like that.

[bensimmons_05]

I'm like OrrieG, it was trial and error for me also. Practice on some scrap if you can. And it is all spot welds, remember that. I weld spot welds about 1.5" to 2" apart, let cool, wire brush clean and start over. Do that until you fill all of the gaps up.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks to all you guys. Your words give me encouragement not to keep procrastinating and to go get the bottle/gas and order a helmet, etc.

Orrie, I think your idea will work best for me. I can screw up the fender and it costs me nothing. IF the HObart has a chart, I'll naturally follow that and adjust for what works for my limited abilities. In the old days you'd see things like fender or running boards behind a gas station. Nowadays metal is a precious commodity I guess. But I'm sure if I go to a wrecking yard and ask for the cheapest old body part they've got they may let it go cheap.

Are you guys using the Cleco clamps/fasteners (I guess that's what they're called) or are you just butting up the pieces (slight gap) and holding with Vise Grip pliers? I read somewhere there is special wire for body sheet metal besides just .023. ANyone using that or do I just go buy .023? Sorry for the stupid questions

[watahyahknow]

cleco's are temporary rivets basicly i know wat you want though , they call them buttweldingclamps :
http://www.georgia-market.com/Warner...-auto-body.asp