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09-18-2017, 09:05 PM | #1 |
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New Engine Help (Please)!
Good evening everyone!
I am hoping you can help me with an oil issue. I just finished building my 383 for an OT car (Firebird). I fired it up today and ran it at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Everything went well with that. As I was bringing the rpms down, it started blowing blue smoke out the tail pipes. I messed with it for a bit, but it still is smoking. It smokes more when you goose it. Rather than a long description, here's what I've got: PCV oily, still smokes when disconnected RPMs increase when PCV valve is disconnected Compression test showed 160-170 in all All spark plugs are oily Doesn't smoke on start up, but about 30 seconds into running Heads were reused, but checked by shop and given the green light. It didn't smoke before the rebuild. The block was decked. When I assembled the engine, the heads did not have dowels, but the head bolts held everything pretty well lined up (doubt this is an issue, just throwing it out there in case). The heads have new positive valve seals. Would I be on the right track to assume this is likely a common area problem since all spark plugs are oily? Would it be safe to assume I'm sucking oil through the intake gaskets, or am I missing something? Please help me with this one! Thanks for any suggestions or guidance, Nick Last edited by nonstop; 09-18-2017 at 09:17 PM. |
09-18-2017, 09:28 PM | #2 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
If all plugs are approx. equally oily, and the problem is intake gaskets, you'd have really had to FUBAR the intake gaskets - and you'd have very substantial crankcase vacuum. It's not necessarily abnormal for an engine to smoke as the rings seat - a possibility? Since your cam's had the initial break-in now, I'd take that sucker out and put it under a good load a couple times to get the rings under some stress and try to get them seated.
What's your break-in oil of choice?
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Alex V. ------ 1967 C10 Suburban, 350/NP435, Green/Green, PS, PB, HD cooling, charging, shocks, and springs. 1985 GMC C3500 SRW, Sierra Classic, 454/TH400, white/blue. |
09-18-2017, 10:07 PM | #3 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
You didn't replace the dowels in the block.?? they are there for a reason.
I'd bet a dollar to a donut you have head gasket problems. The head moves around on the block even WITH the dowels as it heats and expands. intake gaskets will be next. Your machinist should have put the dowels back in the block!!!
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Still playin with trucks, even at my age! When you're dead, it's only a problem for the people around you, because you don't know you're dead. .....It's kinda the same when your STUPID. I just did my taxes and reviewed my SS statement. Thanks to the current administration it looks like I will only have to work till noon on the day of my funeral. |
09-18-2017, 10:46 PM | #4 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
Oil of choice was Brad Penn break in oil. |
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09-18-2017, 10:47 PM | #5 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
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09-19-2017, 08:38 AM | #6 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Before doing anything drastic check the easy things first. The pvc usually is hooked to manifold vacuum and if you have oil in the intake, it may be sucking in oil through there . Is there a baffle under the pcv to keep oil from being sucked in?
Intake gaskets would be the next easiest thing to check then head gasket. The aligning dowels are there for gasket alignment purposes but also to keep the head from sliding when bolting it up. Most machine shops have them. Forgot to add: if heads not aligned properly with the alignment dowels, it could also affect the intake manifold alignment.
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68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s 69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab 06 Trailblazer I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won't talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive... Last edited by 68gmsee; 09-19-2017 at 09:04 AM. |
09-19-2017, 09:44 AM | #7 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
If you are running an automatic, check the vacuum module for a leak, could be sucking transmission fluid in.
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09-19-2017, 10:00 AM | #8 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
And make sure to top off the tranny bfore you run it too much if you find it low.
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(Very) Slow-Going Build Thread: Stock 1970 Short Step with Stock 1970 LT-1 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567340 |
09-19-2017, 10:08 AM | #9 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Summit has the official GM/ACDelco ones for $2 each. Your labor may run higher.
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(Very) Slow-Going Build Thread: Stock 1970 Short Step with Stock 1970 LT-1 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567340 |
09-19-2017, 10:48 AM | #10 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
The intake gaskets are the blue Fel Pro ones that came with the gasket kit. I was thinking of changing to the performance style ones in an attempt to get a better seal. The frustrating thing is I used the intake, heads, carb, valve covers, and pcv valve on the old engine and it was dry as a bone. The only changes (besides the block and innards) is that the block was decked and I used the blue gaskets (didn't use those on the old engine). |
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09-19-2017, 10:52 AM | #11 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Thanks. When I saw the smoke, my fingers were crossed hoping that was the problem. Already had that issue before with this car and replaced the modulator. I actually pulled it off, and the line was dry.
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09-19-2017, 12:15 PM | #12 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Other possibility.
I've never had this problem and don't know how much you would have to grind off the block when decking to cause a problem but I've heard that it can change the angle of the head to intake manifold enough to cause an oil or vacuum leak.
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68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s 69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab 06 Trailblazer I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won't talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive... |
09-19-2017, 12:40 PM | #13 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
So I pulled a valve cover and checked my baffle. It's shaped like a trough. I'm wondering if this might be trapping the oil and can be part of the problem. I was thinking of grinding it off and replacing it with a baffled pcv grommet. Any thoughts, or is this a bad idea?
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09-19-2017, 12:44 PM | #14 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
Thanks for all the help guys! |
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09-19-2017, 01:37 PM | #15 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
Clean it all up, then put a clear hose on it to see if the pcv is the source. |
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09-19-2017, 04:01 PM | #16 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
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09-19-2017, 04:22 PM | #17 | |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Quote:
The baffle in the valve cover is easy to check and is needed to keep the pvc from sucking in oil if it not there. You should always check all possible problems areas.
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68 GMC 250/3 speed Saginaw p/b p/s 69 Chevy 350/350 currently in pieces still lookin for a cab 06 Trailblazer I just want a vehicle that I can work on, that won't talk to me, leave error msgs or keep track of how I drive... |
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09-19-2017, 08:31 PM | #18 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
If your PCV baffle is the simple bent flat plate it looks to be, that could be the problem. If you have good oil pressure, the oil coming out of the push rods could be squirting enough to splash into that trough and get sucked into the PCV valve. The factory baffles pull air from lower down between the rockers to avoid pulling splashed oil.
2nd on Geezer's clear hose test. |
09-19-2017, 09:47 PM | #19 |
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Re: New Engine Help (Please)!
Test one is out of the way! I didn't have clear tubing. I started it with the PCV valve disconnected. It smoked minimally for 45 seconds or so, then was smoking like before. I hooked up the PCV valve and the RPM dropped about 300-400 or so rpm. I put in a baffled grommet, figuring it can't hurt.
I am going to talk to my machinist on Thursday about the dowel issue and see what he's going to do for me. I'm eager to try the intake gaskets soon, but don't want to jump the gun if I need to pull the heads! Thanks guys for the help! |
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