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Old 01-04-2018, 02:40 PM   #751
hoppin5478
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
to add to that, all 2wd s10 trucks and blazers use the same front frame half and different rear frame halves that are longer or shorter (or a different shape in the case of the blazer) to make the different wheelbases. there is a factory weld joint where the rear section is slipped inside the front section, its roughly under where the door was, and you can grind the factory welds and slip it apart, cut off the extra, and slip it back together and weld it. a slip joint is a little easier to keep square and weld strongly than a butt joint.
This is an awesome site and especially thread! I'm just finishing another project and starting my 51 short bed. I've been doing my homework, taking inventory and trying to locate a S10 for a reasonable price. Unfortunately the single cab long beds don't seem to be nearly as common as they use to but being able to look out for the longer chassis will give me more options. That slip joint will make life a lot easier if I go that route. Thank you for the info.
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Old 01-04-2018, 06:32 PM   #752
joedoh
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by dettmer13 View Post
Also, another question to those have done the Blazer big brakes conversion. I have a 1992 S10 as the frame for my 51. I've seen forums here where some have used the Belltech 2102 (2" drop spindles) for a 98-03 Chevy Blazer on an older S10 upper and lower control arms. Have any of you heard of this? I was checking HUSSEY's build for "Albert" and it looked like he did this. Can anyone foresee any issues with geometry and alignment? Thanks in advance!!
just as a follow up, I found pictures of my blazer brake swap on the 47. working on the old desktop (lappy is in for service) means I have access to all the archival pictures. might put some more on flickr if I think about it.

IMG_0950 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0951 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_0953 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


the belltech blazer spindles bolt right to the s10 truck arms. change the bearings as a 'while you are in there', use timkin bearings if you can, and use new rotors and pads. my rotor shows dust because I had a rock in the pad and these pictures were taken when changing the bad rotor/pads.
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my 4.3 5spd S10 41 Chevy 1/2 ton
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8029533


if there is a problem, I can have it.
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Old 01-14-2018, 05:19 PM   #753
my80schild
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I found some bad pictures of the firewall pass thru for that big grommet-ed hole, look in the upper right of this picture above and beside the booster
Joedoh
IMG_5243 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

and this is the distribution block that mounts underhood.

IMG_4153 by
Joe Doh, on Flickr[/QUOTE]

Thanks for those pictures and insight joedoh. It all looked pretty daunting at first but now after looking at your pics and revisiting all my wires on the ground it seems relatively straight forward. Just mount the wiring bracket on the firewall and hide everything up in the dash
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Old 01-15-2018, 04:13 AM   #754
joedoh
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Re: S10 Swap how to

yeah depending on what model s10 it came from there can be a lot to hide but the only really extra thing is the HVAC and radio wiring, everything else gets used.
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Project: Hannah
my 4.3 5spd S10 41 Chevy 1/2 ton
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8029533


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Old 01-17-2018, 10:46 AM   #755
motorhead153
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I took every ones advice and managed to successfully shorten my extended cab short bed frame! It went smoothly and I plan on starting my own build thread soon, but for now here are some pictures.
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Last edited by motorhead153; 01-17-2018 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:19 PM   #756
ThadandDad48
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Doing this swap on an S10 short wheel base which I moved the rear end back 8" on. Everything has been going as planned but just ran into a snag and hope someone else may have already solved this. The gas tank will not fit under the cab and front of the bed because the cross-member it mounts to is about 8" farther forward than it should be. Has anyone else run into this problem and is there an easy solution? Really don't want to spend $400 on a gas tank and then lose the ability to have a spare carried under the back of the bed. Thanks for any insight you guys may have.
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Old 01-19-2018, 01:56 PM   #757
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by ThadandDad48 View Post
Doing this swap on an S10 short wheel base which I moved the rear end back 8" on. Everything has been going as planned but just ran into a snag and hope someone else may have already solved this. The gas tank will not fit under the cab and front of the bed because the cross-member it mounts to is about 8" farther forward than it should be. Has anyone else run into this problem and is there an easy solution? Really don't want to spend $400 on a gas tank and then lose the ability to have a spare carried under the back of the bed. Thanks for any insight you guys may have.


the gas tank crossmember is held in with rivets, and the front strap is bolted in. you can drill the rivets in the crossmember and slide it back in the frame, and redrill new holes for the front strap bolts. you shouldnt need 8 inches, only a couple inches to clear the top of the tank where the stepdown is. keep in mind, the further you move it back the higher it will get. I did this on my 65 which was a std cab stretched the same as yours, because the gas tank hit the floor (it was the stock s10 floor) when I moved the cab back. in the original position the floor did not hit the tank.

this is also pretty common to do on bagged s10s because the gas tank hangs ever so slightly below the frame.

I would double check the height of your body mounts, if you are mounting the body super low for a slammed stance, you will have this problem even with a longbed truck.
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation

Project: Hannah
my 4.3 5spd S10 41 Chevy 1/2 ton
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8029533


if there is a problem, I can have it.
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Old 01-19-2018, 02:09 PM   #758
ThadandDad48
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
the gas tank crossmember is held in with rivets, and the front strap is bolted in. you can drill the rivets in the crossmember and slide it back in the frame, and redrill new holes for the front strap bolts. you shouldnt need 8 inches, only a couple inches to clear the top of the tank where the stepdown is. keep in mind, the further you move it back the higher it will get. I did this on my 65 which was a std cab stretched the same as yours, because the gas tank hit the floor (it was the stock s10 floor) when I moved the cab back. in the original position the floor did not hit the tank.

this is also pretty common to do on bagged s10s because the gas tank hangs ever so slightly below the frame.

I would double check the height of your body mounts, if you are mounting the body super low for a slammed stance, you will have this problem even with a longbed truck.

I am not going really low so that should not be a problem. I will go look at how far back I need to go. I measured when I found the problem and the frame flattens out before you can get 8" back so cannot move the cross member back 8" but like you said may be able to go back less. Thanks

Last edited by ThadandDad48; 01-19-2018 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:39 PM   #759
ThadandDad48
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Think I have the tank location problem solved. Followed the advice to move the cross member back but ran into issues with not being able to move it back far enough sooooo. Since I Already had the cross member out I ended up replacing it with some 1.5 square tubing clamped to the underside of the top frame rail. I will eventually weld this in place all around and probably add a gusset to the bottom of the frame rail but for the moment this looks like it will work great sets the tank about 3/4" below the bed floor (already raised 3" to allow clearance to frame and get running boards and bed to align properly.) I need to take pictures so I can share but user beware the short frame extension does come with other issues although the 3" drop in the rear has made everything sit level and giving me the stance I was looking for without having to lower anything yet. Current stance is 9" from the bottom of the running boards to the ground which I think looks great and should be very drive able for a 16 year old.
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Old 01-20-2018, 02:52 PM   #760
joedoh
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Re: S10 Swap how to

sounds like a good solution! I didnt have this problem on the 65, I moved it back less than 3" and it cleared the floor.

how tall are your body mounts? if you needed a 3" raised bed floor that sounds higher than I usually raise the floor, and that would mean the body is lower on the frame. did you use stock s10 body mounts?
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the mass of men live lives of quiet desperation

Project: Hannah
my 4.3 5spd S10 41 Chevy 1/2 ton
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=8029533


if there is a problem, I can have it.
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Old Yesterday, 02:51 PM   #761
ThadandDad48
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Re: S10 Swap how to

I used the rev 2 old sarg. (skymangs) body mounts. Which I thought would give a level bed with no bed depth loss, but I am using a 2001 frame so may be a little different in rear frame height. I need to take some pictures and upload so others can learn from my suffering.
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Project: Thad's first truck
our 4.3 4l60e S10 48 Chevy 1 ton to 1/2 ton short bed
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=750872

Last edited by ThadandDad48; Yesterday at 03:03 PM.
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Old Today, 10:53 AM   #762
gigamanx
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Re: S10 Swap how to

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThadandDad48 View Post
I used the rev 2 old sarg. (skymangs) body mounts. Which I thought would give a level bed with no bed depth loss, but I am using a 2001 frame so may be a little different in rear frame height. I need to take some pictures and upload so others can learn from my suffering.
Its a good idea to tack weld and test the height with everything together before final welding. I took my cab and front fenders apart maybe four times before finally welding the four cab mounts and the radiator mount. Only takes a couple of screws to attach the front fenders, core support, and cab enough to test adjust. Also keep in mind you'll be putting some rubber supports under the cab. Mine added 3/4" to the height measurement.
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Old Today, 11:39 AM   #763
ThadandDad48
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Re: S10 Swap how to

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Originally Posted by gigamanx View Post
Its a good idea to tack weld and test the height with everything together before final welding. I took my cab and front fenders apart maybe four times before finally welding the four cab mounts and the radiator mount. Only takes a couple of screws to attach the front fenders, core support, and cab enough to test adjust. Also keep in mind you'll be putting some rubber supports under the cab. Mine added 3/4" to the height measurement.
Thanks for the advice. I am using the s10 cab mount bushings and have like you had it together and apart multiple times already. Here are pictures of how I mounted the tank in case anyone is interested.
[IMG][/IMG]



Note the new cross member is still held in place by c-clamps.
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Project: Thad's first truck
our 4.3 4l60e S10 48 Chevy 1 ton to 1/2 ton short bed
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=750872
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