Swapping a 69 Chevy body onto a 97 Cummings chassis

[steveperry]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Nice project you have going on here. I would try to install the intercooler now rather than not using it. If you plan to keep the engine near stock HP levels and don't plan to tow, than you can get away without one. If not, plan to install one. You have the dodge fan, why not use it? It's more reliable than an electric fan.

Yeah, I'm going to use the intercooler, going to work on fabbing up the cab mounts on the dodge frame tomorrow and then start getting the front clip on and start the figment process. The only reason I wouldn't use the dodge fan is for clearance issues. The front axle on the dodge is further back than the Chevy so I have to do some playing around with the placement of the cab to make it all work. I'll update as I make progress.

[steveperry]

Worked on getting that damn p-pump out for the better part of an hour and just couldn't get the inner bolt to break loose. Anyone have any suggestions? Gonna try a universal on it tomorrow, couldn't find mine tonight. But I got the opposite side of the engine stripped down. Going to reassemble after I get everything cleaned up and the gasket kit gets here.

[Dieselwrencher]

Which inner bolt are you referring to? One of the inner retaining nuts? I use a u-joint type swivel socket and a 12-16" long extension to get to them. It looks like you have some exhaust manifold bolts to extract too. Super fun. Haha

[steveperry]

Got the p pump off! That was the ticket, the universal, popped right off. And yes....I've got four manifold bolts to extract! But I started degreasing the engine this evening with mineral spirits, hadn't ever heard of it but it works amazingly well to get all that road grime off. And anybody know what that box looking deal is toward the back of the block with what looks to be a coolant line connector coming from it? It was behind the p pump and the hose was broke off of it, wondering what it's for.

[Dieselwrencher]

If you're referring to the tan colored piece, that is the tappet cover. The box with the tube coming out of it is the breather. That is the only breather on the engine. There is a packing in there to help seperate oil from excess crankcase pressure as it exits the block. A road draft tube is usually attached there with a spring clamp and it is routed in between the starter and engine block stock. 3/4" hose to be exact.

[steveperry]

Got my gasket kit and fass system! Christmas came early!! Time to start resealing this pig and get her put back together! Even got the wife to help strip some of the gunk off the chassis!

[steveperry]

Here's some before and after of the clean up, looking pretty good I think.

[1972RedNeck]

Subscribed

[72 tigger]

Tried to get cab mount pics

[72 tigger]

Rear mount

[steveperry]

Got the old front cab mounts cut off the dodge frame and gonna start measuring for the Chevy cab, should have some fabbing done up by the end of the week! Don't mind the nest of wires there on the transmission...it'll get sorted out eventually. Thanks for the pictures there tigger!

[steveperry]

Was just thinking...if the front of this truck is such a tight squeeze with the inter cooler and all, I'm gonna get an extra couple fenders and cut out about four inches in front of the wheel and slice another fender in the same spot. Splice in the extra length, will give me more space out front, line up my fender over my wheel properly, and allow me to keep my cab a little further back. Anyone tried this? Cause I'm thinking this will be just about a perfect fix for the tight squeeze/wheel placement problems.

[1985-GMC]

Cool build!

Here's another Chevy cab on a cummins/dodge chassis: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=178608

[72 tigger]

Found some old notes from my build in 2003. The bed mounts are the highest point (obviously) which I called 0 - the rear cab mounts are 3 1/4" below them- the front cab mounts are 5 7/16" below the bed mounts & the rad supports are 3/4" below the bed mounts. Don't know if this helps (& I would triple check them if you use them) but, thought they could be useful.

[Luther Grimace]

Awesome project. You will have a stout truck that drives like a late model Dodge. I did a Chevy cab swap onto a Cummins frame. Link is in my sig. I'm not sure if it will help you because I used a 55 Chevy and a First Gen Cummins truck.

Dieselwrencher may know more about this than I do on a P pump truck but I don't run a fan at all, mechanical or electric. This freed up a lot of room for me. Mine is also a VE pumped engine though. The P pump can put out a lot more fuel which would relate to heat.

Also, I reused the Cummins truck radiator support. This saved time mounting the radiator and intercooler.

If I had to do it again I would try to get by without the intercooler. It was a ton of work to make it fit. Including cutting the firewall and sectioning a wheelbarrow in.

[1985-GMC]

Oh yeah I forgot ^ he used a dodge chassis. Check it out, his is sweet!

[steveperry]

Thanks for the link! Any and all ideas are welcome, I'm going to get the front cab mounts done up today and set the cab on the chassis. I'll put up pictures as soon as it's done. Then I can start playing with the clearance issues up front.

[steveperry]

Finally got back to working on the truck some. Welded the front cab mounts on and set the cab on the frame for a test fit. It's so cool to see the cab on that frame!! Gotta work on the final cab placement and how to center the axle in the fender but I knew that was coming.

[72 tigger]

Lookin' good!

[steveperry]

I've got a question for you diesel knowledgable people out there. I've got the fass system for the 12v and was doing some thinking about the stock lift pump...I don't need it anymore right? And the fuel bowl/filter on mounted on the back of the intake? The was I understand it is the fass system has both of those things built into it, so why keep the old stock stuff? Looking to clean up some junk in the engine bay if it's mechanically sound to do so.

[Dieselwrencher]

Do you know which model of fass pump it is? The truck is looking nice. Keep up the great work!

[steveperry]

Dieselwrencher, It's the fass titanium 125gph fuel system.

[Dieselwrencher]

With that one, you do not need to use the factory lift pump.

[chosn 1]

Looking great !!!!, you are definitely getting it all figured out!
I'm not sure if your cab is sitting same height from the frame as mine is but you've probably noticed there's a ton of room above the transmission.
I Went with cutting the hump out completely and made the floor completely flat,(kinda like the older caddys were) and so the 5 spd sticks thru the floor by about 2",
the rubber dodge stick bellows was plenty big that I could cut a big enough port that the trans could never hit the cab!' ( food "for thought anyways).
I don't have a transfer case lever thru the floor, instead I'm building a linear shifter......meaning cable operated in/out style.under the dash and parallel with the floor.( I'm in Canada eh so it's 2wd for 6 months and 4wd for 6 months)
I'm almost done my build except for powder coat on the deck and running boards and some upholstery,namely seat and carpet.
If you need some pointers then I'm happy to help.
Cheers......

[steveperry]

So I ordered some parts and they should be here shortly so in preparation (got arp head studs) I pulled the head off the motor....by myself...mistake!! Dang that thing is heavy. But I've got a question now. The number 1 piston is at tdc and just for grins I tried to wiggle it, and it moved! Kinda freaked me out. I've done some reading and I'm kinda thinking it's ok since diesels have greater clearances for the higher temperatures in the cylinders. Anyone have any thoughts? Oh and the parts I got are-

Banks twin ram intake horn and manifold
Attitude adjuster for the p7100 pump
Arp head studs

Last to be ordered for now will be a set of new injectors. But before I buy them I want to figure this wiggle predicament out.