2.5"/4" drop for LWB - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

motoretro · 10-12-2003, 07:29 PM

Relocating my fuel tank soon and while i have box off i want to mildly lower my 72LWB. Early classics has 2.5" spindles for the front and 4" springs for the rear. I run same size tire all way around. Does this sound like it will lower vehicle to prduce a level stance or slightly raked? should i go to 3" in rear instead?
Thanks in advance.

sactoC10 · 10-13-2003, 10:19 AM

That is hard to determine without knowing the stance of the truck prior to installing this set-up. Most will say to measure before installing drop components, but for my 71 LWB I didn't care. It is all about how it looks in the end.

What I know is this. My truck had Heavy Duty rear springs, along with helper leafs. Big huge rear HEAVY bumper too, also side gas tanks, one full and one about half full (for who knows how many years).

When I removed the bumper, the rear lifted. When I removed the helper springs, it dropped. When I removed the side tanks, it again lifted. I have Eibach rear drop coils which are softer than most drop coils, so all things always need to be considered.

There are plenty of ways to keep tweaking it if it does not end up how you thought it might look.

*72longbed* · 10-13-2003, 08:54 PM

Motoretro,

When you are ready I have a brand new pair of ECE 4" drop coils I had in my truck for about 2 weeks. My truck is a C-20 so the drop was too far for my liking, but I can save you some money on them.

$100.00 includes shipping. Let me know.

72longbed

motoretro · 10-15-2003, 01:06 AM

Thanks for the offer, will contact you when if i need them.

sactoC10 · 10-15-2003, 11:36 AM

I just put a picture of my ride in the "pictures" section where you can see what mine looks like with 5.5" dropped in the front and 3" dropped in the rear...and smaller front tires.

Here is a picture of what it looked like before I changed the front tires with 5.5" down in the front and 3" down via springs in the rear.

motoretro · 10-15-2003, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by sactoC10
I just put a picture of my ride in the "pictures" section where you can see what mine looks like with 5.5" dropped in the front and 3" dropped in the rear...and smaller front tires.

Here is a picture of what it looked like before I changed the front tires with 5.5" down in the front and 3" down via springs in the rear.

Sacto, Thanks for the visual aids. Really lets you know what to expect. Thatsa nice ride.....Love the 2 tone paint scheme andf the fuel tank opening covers are a nice period touch. Not sure on the tire switch though, both look great but the slightly larger tire fills the wheel well better. What sizes were on it in front?
Thanks,
Here's what i'm working with before lowering:
www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif

sactoC10 · 10-15-2003, 12:37 PM

Yeah, it is an ongoing expirement. I bought those tires USED for $30 mounted and balanced...and when I decide what to really do I will go larger, but probably only to 245's. Originally, and as seen in this picture those are 275/60/15's on 15x8" wheels. I just like the "smaller/bigger" thing. I'd actually like to have some big 50's in the rear eventually.

As for the rear, when you move the tank back there...expect a full load of fuel to bring it down further than when empty.

Yeah, I like my side fuel filler doors too. I won't remove them. I'll either get them professionally polished up or chrome plated.

sactoC10 · 10-15-2003, 12:50 PM

Checked out your link < www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif >, nice ride too. That is nearly EXACTLY how mine looked when I drove it home in August, in terms of ride height. It was the first thing I was determined to change.

I'll add this. When shopping for drop spindles, I ended up with the CPP's which are NOT a direct bolt on, but provide a very beneficial upgrade (new upper ball joints and larger tie rod ends). By adding the new tie rod ends, you beef up the front a bit and changing the upper ball joints just makes sense while there. BUT...you'll probably have to drill out the rivets from the stock ball joints...which is a nuisance. BUT...the new ones bolt into place and are then easily changeable.

I wanted the ease of the "drop-into-place" bolt ons, but the extra work was worth it IMO.

None of my pictures show the recent (as of Monday 10/13) drop in the rear by another 1.2" which helps the rear wheel well fill in a bit more with those tires/wheels. I'll just keep tweaking it!

motoretro · 10-16-2003, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by sactoC10
[I'll add this. When shopping for drop spindles, I ended up with the CPP's which are NOT a direct bolt on, but provide a very beneficial upgrade (new upper ball joints and larger tie rod ends).

I assume you went w/ 2.5"spindles along with 3" drop coils in front......The upgraded ball joints and tie rods ends...Are these 73-87 stuff??

I'll just keep tweaking it! [/B]

To me, that the most fun in a project like this, finessing that last little change to make the whole thing.

thanks,

Custom 68 · 10-16-2003, 09:16 AM

One more thing. I just droped mine a 68 longbed. I went 2.5 spindles and new stock front springs 4 inch springs on the rear. The front of mine was REALLY low. It looked good but was much more rake than I figured or really wanted. Anyway I drove it like this for a month or 2 and decided to start a resto on it. one think led to another and it ended up being a frame off. After I removed the radiator support the bushings were completly gone so this visually dropped the front sheet metal an inch or two in the front. You may want to check all your rubber supports this can make a huge difference in appearance in the way it sits.

sactoC10 · 10-16-2003, 10:57 AM

Here is the link:

< http://www.classicperform.com/produc...2/Spindles.htm >

Yes. This spindle, as noted, is sold in their upgrade kit, but this one also is a lowering spindle.

Part number CP4S3.

Rdrdave · 10-16-2003, 01:14 PM

I have McGaughy's 2.5 spindles and ECE 1" spring in the front and a ECE 4" rear spring. We call this a California rake. The whole 60s deal I guess. Tires/wheels 15x8 with 245/60/15 and 15x10 w/275/60/15. Hope this gives you an idea of what that drop does.

sactoC10 · 10-16-2003, 01:38 PM

ME LIKE THAT VERY MUCHO!!!

OK, Gotta have the 245's up front...for sure. Being in California, guess that's why I like the "California" rake! Darn close to what I am trying to accomplish with just a bit less space in the wheel wells...2.5" spindles, 3" coils up front and currently 3" springs in the rear with 1.25" blocks, probably still try 1.5-2.0" blocks before I make my final decision.

Your truck has attitude, gotta like that.

Rdrdave · 10-16-2003, 02:14 PM

Thanks Sacto. I wanted it lower but wanted to keep some comfort in the driver's area. I live close to 880 and if you've ever been on that highway you've felt the potholes! I also still use my truck for those that wanted one of those gas saving buckets! Have truck will move $$$$. I'm thinking of going with 18x7(8) up front and 20x10s in the rear to fill up the space but still debating on that. Need to figure out the backspacing deal and how much I really want to spend on a set of chrome rims. They're over priced still and I'm waiting like usual for the demand to slow. Gotta love the trucks though!

sactoC10 · 10-16-2003, 02:38 PM

SIR?

J/K...Well opininions are like ---holes, everyone has got one, so here is mine on the big 18-20"+ wheels craze.

Don't like them all that much. Maybe it is my age...don't know, but in most cases I don't like the way it looks. My 13 year old duaghter and I even had this conversation last night in a Home Depot parking lot, eyeballing a car with 18's. My F-150 even has 18's and I don't like them either. Can't imagine going any bigger.

But, it DOES work for me on SOME vehicles that have the "whole" package. I'd conider possibly going to a 16, maybe even a 17 on my CHEVY, but probably nothing bigger- ever.

So, when you dump those 15's (that I think look great, and RIGHT...let me know- I'll take EM!).

ha-ha-ha

Rdrdave · 10-16-2003, 03:03 PM

I have that same feeling sometimes, that's why I haven't bought any yet. Also, not sure how they will handle when I take a quick turn without touching the brake. I don't need a rim folded in half. I noticed you are a gov. analyst. State employee? Unfortunately, I am. Ah nuld! New boss!

I'll give you a heads up if I decide to pick up a new set of rims/tires.

Ooops, sorry about the rims. I noticed your truck '71 5 lug. They are 6 lug. Have to keep the thieves away. They won't fit camaros or other cars. That's my way of keeping them on my truck!

dubie · 10-21-2003, 09:54 AM

Rdrdave, your truck has the nicest stance i have ever seen on a long fleet. Now I know exactly how I want my next truck to look like

Nicely done

sactoC10 · 10-21-2003, 10:19 AM

The more I look at it, the more it rocks! It is bugging me. Gotta get the weekend here faster and get to work.

GMC JUNKIE TOO · 10-21-2003, 01:34 PM

Rdrdave What backspacing do your front wheels have? I have 2.5 drop spindles and 2in coils in the front and 4in coils in the back it gives me a nice rake. Im running 255 70s all around they tend to rub in the front when turning over bumps.

10-12-2003, 07:29 PM	#1
motoretro Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Mid-MI Posts: 110	2.5"/4" drop for LWB Relocating my fuel tank soon and while i have box off i want to mildly lower my 72LWB. Early classics has 2.5" spindles for the front and 4" springs for the rear. I run same size tire all way around. Does this sound like it will lower vehicle to prduce a level stance or slightly raked? should i go to 3" in rear instead? Thanks in advance. __________________ motoretro 1972 Chevrolet Custom 10 Lwb www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif

10-13-2003, 08:54 PM	#3
72longbed Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: PA Posts: 1,411	4" ECE drop Coils Motoretro, When you are ready I have a brand new pair of ECE 4" drop coils I had in my truck for about 2 weeks. My truck is a C-20 so the drop was too far for my liking, but I can save you some money on them. $100.00 includes shipping. Let me know. 72longbed

10-15-2003, 01:06 AM	#4
motoretro Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Mid-MI Posts: 110	Thanks for the offer, will contact you when if i need them. __________________ motoretro 1972 Chevrolet Custom 10 Lwb www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif

10-15-2003, 11:36 AM	#5
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	I just put a picture of my ride in the "pictures" section where you can see what mine looks like with 5.5" dropped in the front and 3" dropped in the rear...and smaller front tires. Here is a picture of what it looked like before I changed the front tires with 5.5" down in the front and 3" down via springs in the rear. Attached Images __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-15-2003, 12:37 PM	#7
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	Yeah, it is an ongoing expirement. I bought those tires USED for $30 mounted and balanced...and when I decide what to really do I will go larger, but probably only to 245's. Originally, and as seen in this picture those are 275/60/15's on 15x8" wheels. I just like the "smaller/bigger" thing. I'd actually like to have some big 50's in the rear eventually. As for the rear, when you move the tank back there...expect a full load of fuel to bring it down further than when empty. Yeah, I like my side fuel filler doors too. I won't remove them. I'll either get them professionally polished up or chrome plated. __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-13-2003, 10:19 AM	#2
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	That is hard to determine without knowing the stance of the truck prior to installing this set-up. Most will say to measure before installing drop components, but for my 71 LWB I didn't care. It is all about how it looks in the end. What I know is this. My truck had Heavy Duty rear springs, along with helper leafs. Big huge rear HEAVY bumper too, also side gas tanks, one full and one about half full (for who knows how many years). When I removed the bumper, the rear lifted. When I removed the helper springs, it dropped. When I removed the side tanks, it again lifted. I have Eibach rear drop coils which are softer than most drop coils, so all things always need to be considered. There are plenty of ways to keep tweaking it if it does not end up how you thought it might look.

10-15-2003, 12:50 PM	#8
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	link... Checked out your link < www.esivart.com/ebay/truck.gif >, nice ride too. That is nearly EXACTLY how mine looked when I drove it home in August, in terms of ride height. It was the first thing I was determined to change. I'll add this. When shopping for drop spindles, I ended up with the CPP's which are NOT a direct bolt on, but provide a very beneficial upgrade (new upper ball joints and larger tie rod ends). By adding the new tie rod ends, you beef up the front a bit and changing the upper ball joints just makes sense while there. BUT...you'll probably have to drill out the rivets from the stock ball joints...which is a nuisance. BUT...the new ones bolt into place and are then easily changeable. I wanted the ease of the "drop-into-place" bolt ons, but the extra work was worth it IMO. None of my pictures show the recent (as of Monday 10/13) drop in the rear by another 1.2" which helps the rear wheel well fill in a bit more with those tires/wheels. I'll just keep tweaking it! __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-16-2003, 09:16 AM	#10
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,930	something else to think about One more thing. I just droped mine a 68 longbed. I went 2.5 spindles and new stock front springs 4 inch springs on the rear. The front of mine was REALLY low. It looked good but was much more rake than I figured or really wanted. Anyway I drove it like this for a month or 2 and decided to start a resto on it. one think led to another and it ended up being a frame off. After I removed the radiator support the bushings were completly gone so this visually dropped the front sheet metal an inch or two in the front. You may want to check all your rubber supports this can make a huge difference in appearance in the way it sits. __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!"

10-16-2003, 10:57 AM	#11
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	motoretro, yes Here is the link: < http://www.classicperform.com/produc...2/Spindles.htm > Yes. This spindle, as noted, is sold in their upgrade kit, but this one also is a lowering spindle. Part number CP4S3. __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-16-2003, 01:14 PM	#12
Rdrdave Broke and still trying Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 562	Here's a LWB with a 3.5 fnt and a 4 rear I have McGaughy's 2.5 spindles and ECE 1" spring in the front and a ECE 4" rear spring. We call this a California rake. The whole 60s deal I guess. Tires/wheels 15x8 with 245/60/15 and 15x10 w/275/60/15. Hope this gives you an idea of what that drop does. Attached Images

10-16-2003, 01:38 PM	#13
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	ME LIKE THAT VERY MUCHO!!! OK, Gotta have the 245's up front...for sure. Being in California, guess that's why I like the "California" rake! Darn close to what I am trying to accomplish with just a bit less space in the wheel wells...2.5" spindles, 3" coils up front and currently 3" springs in the rear with 1.25" blocks, probably still try 1.5-2.0" blocks before I make my final decision. Your truck has attitude, gotta like that. __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-16-2003, 02:14 PM	#14
Rdrdave Broke and still trying Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 562	California Rake Thanks Sacto. I wanted it lower but wanted to keep some comfort in the driver's area. I live close to 880 and if you've ever been on that highway you've felt the potholes! I also still use my truck for those that wanted one of those gas saving buckets! Have truck will move $$$$. I'm thinking of going with 18x7(8) up front and 20x10s in the rear to fill up the space but still debating on that. Need to figure out the backspacing deal and how much I really want to spend on a set of chrome rims. They're over priced still and I'm waiting like usual for the demand to slow. Gotta love the trucks though!

10-16-2003, 02:38 PM	#15
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	permission to speak freely? SIR? J/K...Well opininions are like ---holes, everyone has got one, so here is mine on the big 18-20"+ wheels craze. Don't like them all that much. Maybe it is my age...don't know, but in most cases I don't like the way it looks. My 13 year old duaghter and I even had this conversation last night in a Home Depot parking lot, eyeballing a car with 18's. My F-150 even has 18's and I don't like them either. Can't imagine going any bigger. But, it DOES work for me on SOME vehicles that have the "whole" package. I'd conider possibly going to a 16, maybe even a 17 on my CHEVY, but probably nothing bigger- ever. So, when you dump those 15's (that I think look great, and RIGHT...let me know- I'll take EM!). ha-ha-ha __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-16-2003, 03:03 PM	#16
Rdrdave Broke and still trying Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 562	Opinioins I have that same feeling sometimes, that's why I haven't bought any yet. Also, not sure how they will handle when I take a quick turn without touching the brake. I don't need a rim folded in half. I noticed you are a gov. analyst. State employee? Unfortunately, I am. Ah nuld! New boss! I'll give you a heads up if I decide to pick up a new set of rims/tires. Ooops, sorry about the rims. I noticed your truck '71 5 lug. They are 6 lug. Have to keep the thieves away. They won't fit camaros or other cars. That's my way of keeping them on my truck! Last edited by Rdrdave; 10-16-2003 at 03:05 PM.

10-21-2003, 09:54 AM	#17
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,855	Rdrdave, your truck has the nicest stance i have ever seen on a long fleet. Now I know exactly how I want my next truck to look like Nicely done __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

10-21-2003, 10:19 AM	#18
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	No kidding The more I look at it, the more it rocks! It is bugging me. Gotta get the weekend here faster and get to work. __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

10-21-2003, 01:34 PM	#19
GMC JUNKIE TOO THE QUICKER FIXERUPER Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Ok Posts: 615	Rdrdave What backspacing do your front wheels have? I have 2.5 drop spindles and 2in coils in the front and 4in coils in the back it gives me a nice rake. Im running 255 70s all around they tend to rub in the front when turning over bumps.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.