Make 2003 Suburban tow better?

[jesdude7789]

What would you guys do first to make an 03 suburban tow better and feel more sure footed on the highway when towing anywhere from 2000-8000 pounds?

I'm thinking I need to replace the rear shocks but I also feel like the stock rear springs are just too damn bouncy. The 10'x5' trailer I use right now isn't the best condition and acts a little squirrely if it isn't loaded just right so i'm looking at getting a light duty tandem trailer to help improve the highway ride as well. I would love to have a 2011 and up F-250 but it just isn't in the budget right now. I want to install a trailer brake controller in case I am using my father's heavy duty 18' trailer that weighs 3000 pounds just by itself. Are those just plug and play on this year suburban or does it require splicing wires?

[Palf70Step]

Good shocks (front & rear) will help things. Lot of folks I know have the airbag overloads helpers also. All the trailor brakes I've seen on these years were wired (spliced) in. Not sure if they ever came that way from GM, least not in the half ton models.

[Keith Seymore]

I've never heard someone complain about the way a Suburban tows a small trailer; Make sure you've got the tongue weight set correctly and fix anything on the truck you think might be suspect.

Yes - there is a plug and play trailer brake controller harness for GMT800 models (2002 and earlier, and a different part number harness for 2003 and later).

I can come up with a couple part numbers if you like but they are at home.

K

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I've never heard someone complain about the way a Suburban tows a small trailer; Make sure you've got the tongue weight set correctly and fix anything on the truck you think might be suspect.

Yes - there is a plug and play trailer brake controller harness for GMT800 models (2002 and earlier, and a different part number harness for 2003 and later).

I can come up with a couple part numbers if you like but they are at home.

K

The trailer is a tilt bed type and so the axle is further forward than your standard light duty trailer. My dad has had it for decades and it has made a couple long drives interesting and almost caused me to run off the road once in my 87 gmc. At this point, I'm pretty sure the problem I'm having is due to the design of the trailer. Here is a pic of the load I brought to houston from east texas over thanksgiving weekend. The other picture being what I would bet most people have for a light duty trailer and don't wag nearly as easily since the axle is farther back.

[hatzie]

Axle placement causing poor weight distribution is an issue with some trailers.
I wouldn't use that trailer at highway speeds. Put-putting around at 30-35 mph should be fine but that's about the limit.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by hatzie

Axle placement causing poor weight distribution is an issue with some trailers.
I wouldn't use that trailer at highway speeds. Put-putting around at 30-35 mph should be fine but that's about the limit.

Yes this makes sense to me now. I feel dumb because I only really started figuring this out recently and really analyzing trailer designs. Dad always had this trailer growing up and it is what we used for all our trips to the dump which was only two miles away and only went up to 45 mph. Lots of heavy loads of demo materials, trees, concrete, etc. over the years.

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by jesdude7789

At this point, I'm pretty sure the problem I'm having is due to the design of the trailer.

Yep.

K

[jesdude7789]

My suburban has the round 7 pin trailer connector that I believe is factory installed so after some research it seems that if it is indeed factory equipment then I simply get a cheap harness that plugs right in under the dash at a junction block and wire the other end to a controller of my choice. I'll go ahead and check my shocks and if they are bad then I will pick up some new monotube monroe replacements at oreillys. Looking for decent used trailers on craigslist!

[hatzie]

The trailer controller can plug into the electrical junction panel under the dash.
Tekonsha, Reese, Curt, and others sell pigtails to plug their brake controllers in on GM, Ford, Dodge, Toyota, etc trucks without any serious work.

[jesdude7789]

I was looking at the controllers and timed type vs proportional type and found a youtube video showing an install with the plug harness and tekonsha unit. Definitely easy to do in my case.

After some more research, something I will do is swap out the coil springs as well because a new set from moog is only $50 and if mine are weak then i'm sure it would help as well.

Also had a conversation with my dad about his trailer and he was defensive that it is "just fine" as a highway trailer.

[jesdude7789]

Well I found out the shocks are all original!! Crazy. I have had this truck for 2 years and I'm the 3rd owner. I'll get some heavy duty monotube shocks with oversized pistons and that should make a huge difference in the ride. The rear coil springs look like about 5/8" thick and about 7 coils total and at a compressed height of about a foot or so with no weight in the back of the suburban. They aren't broken or rusty at all so I don't think I will swap them out just yet.

[v30crewcab]

sway bars make a huge difference on these also.

[stroker87]

suburbans are a little weak on towing compared to the trucks but i installed air bags in the rear coil springs from Airlift and some air shocks it made all the difference in the world! it was way more stable and pulled a lot better

at the time i had my 87 silverado i use to take to the 1/4 mile a lot about 85 miles away combined weight was around 6500 pounds, from the start i use to have both hands on the wheel with sweaty palms at 55/60mph, after the bags and shocks that same run i reclined my seat a little one hand on the steering wheels would smoke and even have a snack driving 70/75mph

hope this helps

[dajn]

The height of your ball is very important also. You may want to try playing with that. Usually raising it up some will help straighten it out if it tends to wander. This may not at all be an issue for your setup but just another thing to keep in mind. I have a trailer that I pulled quite often with my 2000 suburban. Now I have a 2004 Yukon that sits up higher than the suburban and it pulls the trailer different with the same height receiver. So I ended up getting a drop reciever for the yukon . And as said earlier, you should have zero issue pulling with a suburban at the weights you described.