A daily driver, fixer-upper thread

[Lugnut64052]

So I sorted all that out, got it straight in my head, then started looking at how to further upgrade to the CS alternator that came with the ’95 serpentine drive. The factory plug on the CS contained only one wire, which was, appropriately, a brown one.


Here’s the pin assignments for the CS:

"P" Not used.

"L" Hooked to key power (a switched ignition source). Turns the regulator on and connects to the original brown wire. If this circuit has a dash warning light, you're fine. If it doesn't you need to wire a 35-100 ohm, 3+ watt resistor into it or it'll bake the regulator.

"F" Not used.

"S" Voltage Sensing wire. Connects to the red wire splice, or in my case, the added junction block on my firewall.

ACDelco makes an adapter harness to go from an SI to a CS. P/N is 8078. Long GM P/N is 12102921. It has the resistor built into the "L" wire. Delco also makes an adapter without the resistor. I cut the "SI" end off and spliced it into my harness. Evidently the regulator inside this CS is sensing power right in the alternator, hence the one-wire original plug. I hooked up the remote sensing feature anyway. A replacement one may not be internally wired the same (edit: looks like it's remote sensing now, since I enabled that circuit).

The result: a steady 14.3 volts across the battery at idle. Works great.

[ERASER5]

Thanks for mentioning the difference between the 12 bolt and the D-60. You saved me a big oops!

[3quartertime]

Great build thread. Very informative and easy to follow...

Thanks!!!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Nice build thread keep up the good work.

[Lugnut64052]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Thanks for mentioning the difference between the 12 bolt and the D-60. You saved me a big oops!

I saw over in Engine & Drivetrain you got a 6-lug Dana. Thought about commenting on the thread but then saw you had it all sorted out.

What are you going to put that bad boy in?

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And thanks guys. I've kinda been stalled on it for the last few weeks, but have another picture or two to put up. Be back later.

[ERASER5]

The D-60 is going in a 70 GMC 1/2 ton. I wanted a lower gear and a posi. The D-60 has 3.54 and posi plus the bonus of one of the strongest rear end out there! The plan includes air bags over leaf springs to carry about 1-1/4 tons of water late this summer. I am still hunting a drive shaft, but so far no luck. I may have to have on built.

Some time in the future, an OD trans is going in. The 3.54 gear will be perfect.

[tdave00]

Subscribing. Good info here.

[Lugnut64052]

Okay, back to the Dana 60.
Mine is a 3.54 Posi unit as well, but an 8-lug full floater. Andy drove his 'Burb home from Washington state to Ohio and thought the brakes might be okay, or at least driveable for a while.

Um....no. Once I got the rear hung in there I took the brakes apart for a look, and everything was junk. The only thing save-able were the star wheels and the brake bars. The backing plates had deep, heavy grooves worn into them where the shoes ride. Never seen that before. I welded up them up and ground them off flat.

[Lugnut64052]

Fresh brakes.......and drums.......and E-brake cables.
Yow-wee! Cost me three times as much to fix the brakes as I gave Andy for the whole rear. Should be good as factory fresh at this point though.

[Lugnut64052]

The more I look at this truck, the more I think it's a 1/2-ton wearing a 3/4-ton body. No matter. I'll put some fresh rear springs in it pretty soon.

Finally got it all fitted together. Got the rear half of the driveshaft shortened. It's the smaller 1/2-ton shaft but I'm going with it for now. Had to get a conversion U-joint to hook up to the Dana. The shaft has a 1310 series yoke on it, while the Dana's yoke is a 1350 series. The Precision brand part number for the conversion joint is 348. Dana/Spicer part number is 5-460X.

Here it is, wearing 8-lug steelies on the rear and 5-lug rallys on the front. Should have entered it in this month's Beater contest.

[ERASER5]

I am right behind you, but my brake system was in a little better shape, but not much. I hope to keep the drums. The rest of the wear items will be replaced... unless I figure out a cheap disc brake alternative. Hmm...I wonder if Danna 44 brake parts will fit?

How much did you shorten the rear section? About 2"?

I am hunting a factory shaft right now. LHM no longer has his d-shaft from your Dana, so I am out of luck there. I have a few more places to check before I have one made or cut. I have time and I am trying to keep costs down.

[Lugnut64052]

I am right behind you, but my brake system was in a little better shape, but not much. I hope to keep the drums. The rest of the wear items will be replaced... unless I figure out a cheap disc brake alternative. Hmm...I wonder if Danna 44 brake parts will fit?

No idea. One of the four-wheel drive guys probably would know, however. I like a front disk/rear drum setup personally. When you get the rear shoes adjusted up properly you get a nice, high, firm brake pedal. If you stayed with the drum system you wouldn't create any rear disk emergency brake issues to contend with either. It'd be cool though.

How much did you shorten the rear section? About 2"?

Near as I could tell, the Dana stuck 1 3/4" further forward than the 12-bolt, so that's how much I had the rear driveshaft section shortened. Wasn't enough however. It fit, but the transmission yoke is almost all the way in with the rear suspension loaded. If I had it to do over again, I'd shorten it 2" minimum and probably 2 1/4"

I am hunting a factory shaft right now. LHM no longer has his d-shaft from your Dana, so I am out of luck there. I have a few more places to check before I have one made or cut. I have time and I am trying to keep costs down.

I think he ended up using his original front section. Then the rear section that came with his new rear end miraculously slipped right into his original front section. He didn't have to do any length or yoke modifications at all.

Further on down the road I'm planning on installing a Turbo 400 and a one-piece driveshaft. Saw a thread on the main forum a while back where some guys were talking about just finding a junkyard shaft out of, say, a newer extended cab truck and having it shortened and rebalanced. Much cheaper than having a custom shaft built. You would have to find one with the right joints/yokes on the ends, but I wouldn't think that'd be too tough.

[ERASER5]

Yea, I am trying to do the exact reverse of what LHM did.

Rear disc brakes are just a wish for now, but I am always looking for possible modifications.

I calculated that I will need to cut about 2". Ride height will change the needed shaft length a little bit.

[Lugnut64052]

Well now, this is interesting. The 12-bolt I pulled out of my truck displayed this same malady. The drums were hanging about a quarter of the way off the shoes and I thought some blockhead had put the wrong drums on it. Looks like it's an earlier 12-bolt with later 5-lug axles in it.

[thelonerife]

I notice its a Highlander too. just like mine started out as. 3/4 ton camper special.\/build thread

[VA72C10]

Nice truck, and GREAT writeup...I'm sure I'll come back to this for information as I work on my truck.

[Lugnut64052]

Originally Posted by thelonerife

I notice its a Highlander too. just like mine started out as. 3/4 ton camper special.\/build thread

I'm diggin' the 3/4-ton Custom Camper thing. It was way run down when I got it, but I wouldn't have bought any other truck, now that I've had it a while.

[robmrtnbb5]

lookin good there bret

[chuckmc8]

subbing for this helpful info-thanks!

[chevyndn]

awsome

[mcbassin]

Nice build, I would have made you a real good deal on a 3/4 front and rear setup. I'm planning on turning mine into a 1/2 short bed. Of course you would still have to do a full brake job front and back. Keep up the good work.

[Lugnut64052]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Nice build, I would have made you a real good deal on a 3/4 front and rear setup. I'm planning on turning mine into a 1/2 short bed. Of course you would still have to do a full brake job front and back. Keep up the good work.

Heck, that's always the way it goes. Seems like you always find what you were looking for cheaper after you already get it. Actually, I have a complete 3/4-ton front end laying in wait to install, but it'll have to keep for a while. I got laid off about four months ago and work on my truck came to a screeching halt. Haven't done anything to it since. No fun money.