Problem with installing power steering...things not lining up?

[AllGoNoShow]

Hello,

Just purchased a 68 C-10 last week and started converting it to power steering (currently manual steering). Everything was going easy, until I went to put steering box back on and get everything lined up. So I went with a CPP conversion kit. As I am sure many of you already know, the steering coupler (rag-joint) can only go on the steering column/shaft one way (two different size holes/bolts) and then it is indexed so it can only go on one way to the input shaft of the new power steering box. And the pitman arm is indexed in a manner which can only make it off 90 degrees so if you get that wrong, its pretty obvious.

Well, I didn't move the steering column at all after removing the old stuff (and the wheels were straight when I did) and to get all the new stuff lined up with the pitman arm centered where it needs to be(I moved the steering input shaft and ensured the whole box was also centered), I have to turn the steering column/shaft 180 degrees to get the rag joint holes/bolts to line up. So this puts my steering wheel 180 degrees off (so it sits upside down) and I can't really figure out how to remedy it.

Looking at the old manual steering box and rag joint, there is no index or key so the input shaft could slide in on any different "spline" and have infinite adjustment. Is it possible the steering wheel is just 180 degrees off and I can just remove it and reinstall it? And does this create any other issues like the turn signal cam in the steering column? Kind of scratching my head on this one.

Nick

[Richard]

Signal switch is mounted to the column. You can pull the wheel and install it in any orientation.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by Richard

Signal switch is mounted to the column. You can pull the wheel and install it in any orientation.

Bingo I had to do this on my truck when I bought it. You can index the steering wheel anywhere without affecting the canceling cam.

[AllGoNoShow]

Well thanks guys, that should make it a lot easier. So naturally this project snowballed today and after pulling the steering wheel I noticed both the upper and lower bearings in the column are pretty much shot (not to mention I just realized the horn doesn't work). Pulled the whole column out and after doing some researching, I see a lot of people talking about an upper intermediate shaft coupler (looks like a larger cylinder like thing that is closer to the firewall). When I pulled my column I didn't see anything like that-I just have that clamp bolt with the spring. Is that upper intermediate shaft coupler something just for later models? (this is a floor shift non-tilt, if that matters)

[57taskforce]

That’s correct 67-68 use a different intermediate shaft than 69+.

[71gmcC15]

How is the ccp power steering kit. I want to put power steering in my 71 gmc. Was it complete with every thing you need. What's the quality like?

[AllGoNoShow]

Not sure yet as it is not 100% installed. I'll let you know when I get it done and drive it. Took the steering wheel off and noticed some things I didn't like so I pulled the whole steering column and am waiting for parts to rebuild it (oh how things snowball).


Does anyone have pictures of a c10 with the stock steering hoses routing location? And picture of the inner fender too? I've heard of people having to "trim" their inner fenders for the power steering install, but the previous owner put some nice pretty paint on them and I am trying not to do that. I am curious what the factory did there as I imagine there are not separate inner fenders for manual and power steering cars.

It is a very tight fit, but it seems like I may be able to get by with some type of 90 degree fitting off the back of the pump to get things connected. Anyone have any idea where I could find a 90 degree male/female flared fitting?! Are these just NPT threads?

[AllGoNoShow]

I was not expecting this project to be such a PITA....I should have just got with a rack and pinion conversion.

Does anyone know if the power steering pump shaft should be key'd? It looks like there is a spot for one (see attached picture) on the shaft, but the actual key is not there, and the pulley also has a notch for a key. Tried calling CPP, but there technical support is "leave a message and we will get back to you" (I guess I should have listened to their reviews here).

[BigBird05]

Yes you need a key. A good hardware store should be able to set you up with one.

[hamjet]

Tractor supply sells a small bag of keys, thats where I got mine. it's a special 9/16 lock nut also. got that from ebay..

[67/Heaven]

It is called a woodruff key, you can find a kit at Autozone

[AllGoNoShow]

Thanks guys...got an assortment kit at advance auto with one that worked (1/8 x 1/2). Got it pretty much all hooked up now....had to mount a 1/4 spacer behind the bracket for the bottom part of the power steering pump where it bolts to the block (to get the pump to line up with the top of the bracket off the water pump, as well as be in line with the other pulleys). And naturally I ended up welding it and painting it so it is one piece because I'm anal like that. Ended up just going with a stock pressure line hose too because I didn't want to snip the fender (still used the return line from the kit).

I'm finding that CPP's kit "specific" to our trucks is really just a collection of universal parts thrown together. Wish I would have just bought their 500 series steering box (which I've heard good things about) and pieced together the rest of the parts myself-would have saved a couple bucks and some aggravation.

[firedemon]

I used the same kit on my 67 I found the bracket for the pump would not let the pully line up with anything , and the lines would not fit under the inner fender . I bought a bracket here and cut the inner fender so I could get the lines in the gearbox . awkward line routing but it works . now that I am redoing the sheetmetal I need to but the factory lines

[AllGoNoShow]

Originally Posted by firedemon

I used the same kit on my 67 I found the bracket for the pump would not let the pully line up with anything , and the lines would not fit under the inner fender . I bought a bracket here and cut the inner fender so I could get the lines in the gearbox . awkward line routing but it works . now that I am redoing the sheetmetal I need to but the factory lines

Did you find the CPP box cut your steering radius? I haven't filled up the pump yet and actually drove it, but just looking at it, its definitively not going to have the same steering radius as with the manual box. I also noticed that from turn lock to the other lock, it is only 2 1/2 turns (everything I read says it was about 3 1/4). Not sure if filling it with fluid changes that, but I can't imagine so. This is a picture of one of the wheels at full lock-

[67/Heaven]

Yes my steering radius increased but its manageable, I have a 67 and did not want to dimple the frame this box fit right up with no dimple but the radius increase was the trade off

[firedemon]

i haven't noticed less radius mine is 3-3 1/2