Manual Windows and Locks to Power fit question.

[Bpilcher72]

It is my understanding that you can install factory power window motors and regulators and power window actuators in a door that came factory with manual locks and windows. I have been told the window tracks are the same in a power door and a non power door. I am trying to do this on a 1982 C/10. I see people buying donor doors, but my doors are in perfect condition so I have no reason to purchase new doors. So if I am wrong in my assumption that I can buy the power regulators, motors, and lock actuators at Autozone and install please let me know. I do realize I will have to manually wire everything outside of the factory harness but I don't mind.

[motornut]

Originally Posted by Bpilcher72

It is my understanding that you can install factory power window motors and regulators and power window actuators in a door that came factory with manual locks and windows. I have been told the window tracks are the same in a power door and a non power door. I see people buying donor doors, but my doors are in perfect condition so I have no reason to purchase new doors. So if I am wrong in my assumption that I can buy the power regulators, motors, and lock actuators at Autozone and install please let me know. I do realize I will have to manually wire everything outside of the factory harness but I don't mind.

if your asking for later years,I've swapped 78 to 89,
only prob was the early years used metal clips on the door rods,later plastic bits,
but it worked.
early years the (78)glass is thicker then the (89)

[Bpilcher72]

Trying to do it on a 1982 C/10

[motornut]

Originally Posted by Bpilcher72

Trying to do it on a 1982 C/10

Should be fine

[battlewagon]

Originally Posted by Bpilcher72

It is my understanding that you can install factory power window motors and regulators and power window actuators in a door that came factory with manual locks and windows. I have been told the window tracks are the same in a power door and a non power door. I am trying to do this on a 1982 C/10. I see people buying donor doors, but my doors are in perfect condition so I have no reason to purchase new doors. So if I am wrong in my assumption that I can buy the power regulators, motors, and lock actuators at Autozone and install please let me know. I do realize I will have to manually wire everything outside of the factory harness but I don't mind.

I have the same question as above. The answers seems to be a resounding YES. So, my question is what parts should be used? These are on ebuy and described as power window regulators and motors for 82 -87 GM doors:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/391488869348...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Will they work? I have asked the seller, but so far no answer yet. Thanks.

Some shots of the work in progress:

[natedogg]

77-87 doors are all the same. Power window regulators will work in a door that is manual windows. You will have to cut a hole in door and cab for the harness. Manual window door should have the lil dimples for the location of hole for harness.

[battlewagon]

Thanks for your answer natedogg. Seller on ebuy also says yes, they will work. So I will place an order. REason for my confusion is my cab is a 1989 1 ton and apparently they used the same doors from 82 thru 87, 88, 89 in 1 ton only.
Switches and harness and door panels will be the next challenge I suppose?

[silverbear]

I will second what natedogg stated. Swapping out the regulators is pretty straight forward. As far as wire harnesses go, a guy on this site GMACHINZ sells new harnesses for this upgrade. I have used some of his stuff and they are very good quality and very fair priced. Make sure to run the wires through some kind of boot between the door and the cab. LMC and some others sell the factory style.

Door panels should not be much of an issue either. The hole in the panel for manual window crank can be used for the power window switch (with a bit of modification). Make sure on the drivers door panel, that you start with the original manual crank hole and open it up moving away from the arm rest. Don't center the double switch on the original opening.

Once you have the window switch opening figured out, the power lock switch goes in (at the same level) about center of the distance between the window switch opening and the edge where the recess starts above the arm rest.

I borrowed this picture from the internet to show the relationship of the switches.

[Greenlee]

Don't forget to drill holes in the cab for the wiring while the doors are off. Mine had dimples where the holes go. I had everything back together, and then had to remove the doors again when I realized I was missing the holes. I swapped regulators and wiring harness etc from a donor truck. The only thing I bought new was the window motors and switches.

[akart]

You sure you want to do this? I had a square with power windows and found them to be a PIA. I bless the day that I got my '86 square with the manual stuff. But if that is what you want more power to you.

[gmachinz]

It much less of a hassle to just install factory power doors unless you don't plan to paint. Otherwise, it's a bit of work but nothing complicated.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I'm going to be doing this project soon. I actually bought complete doors from a scrap yard, the doors are rotted but I'll have every bit I'll need and I got them cheap. Best bet is to find a truck in the junkyard and pull everything, harness is easy as it's a separate harness from the dash harness and just plugs into the fusebox for power. You will have to pull the doors to drill the cab and doors for the wiring passthrough, as mentioned they are dimpled, otherwise easy-peesy

[battlewagon]

Mt situation is the doors, rust free from GA, are all painted and surfaced and have the new replacement vents. So, I don't want to change them out. The original door panels are long gone, so I'll be needing new ones. The interior is not "stock" as the instrument panel is all custom, brushed aluminum and HI-TECH rockers, digital gauges etc. I am thinking I may make my own door panels....? I'm not opposed to work IF it makes it really cool and different. I've used all LEDs interior and exterior except the Head Lamps which aren't made in LED, small size horizontal duals on the 1 ton.

I've run the rubber boots for the wiring as shown below.
Thanks for all the great replies!
The panel: