Headers and exhaust?

[MASTERBrian]

I'd love to install long headers on my '60 suburban, but I need to cut the spending down for a while. I can swing the headers, I was quoted about $100 from summit or jegs. I don't recall off hand if that was hooker, comp or house brand.

The issue is all of the shops are quoting about $600-800 for the rest of the exhaust. I just can't commit to that now and I either need to bolt up the manifolds and ruin what I have for now or order the headers.

If I do headers, can I buy the rest of the exhaust off the shelf and build it myself? I don't have a tubing bender, so I'd have to get pre-bent parts. Is that possible and where do you get? Would local parts store have stuff for these?

What about tapping into current exhaust, ? Is that possible if it's currently designed for manifolds?

Lastly, what about temporarily running glass packs just of the headers? I know they are loud, but it might get me into the header and a temp solution. My state has no laws regarding exhaust/emission.

[mongocanfly]

When I put headers on my truck I just figured out about where my mufflers needed to be and bent some stiff wire in the shape I needed the exhaust pipe (mine only needed a 6" offset) and took that wire to a muffler shop and had them bend me 2 pieces of pipe to match the wire..I welded the flanges on and put it in myself..I'm dumping in front of the axle..cost $30 fof the 2 pipes. He even bent me a couple of turndowns out of scrap pipe at no charge..

[GASoline71]

I bought a 10 foot stick of 3" pipe and one 180 degree mandrel bent 3" pipe. Then made my own exhaust that dumps out in front of the rear tires. The headers came with collectors to weld on to the pipe. Total cost including headers was about $350 bucks.

Gary

[66 C10 383]

From personal experience, I've run cheap headers and 100.00 for any headers is cheap. They are normally sub standard, thin flanges that warp or bend and won't properly hold a gasket (constantly tick-tick-tick exhaust leaks) and thinner gauge tubing.

Better quality made headers are more expensive for a reason. Good headers with thicker flanges will hold gaskets leak free for years and thicker tubing won't rust out.

If all I had was a budget of 100.00 for headers, stick with manifolds. No they're not as "cool" but they are a lot less grief.

Just from my own personal eperience ... trying to save some headaches in advance.

[Captainfab]

Part of the issue you will be up against is the the '60-'62 frames are a PITA to work within especially when routing exhaust. I don't know if you could run header mufflers. Yes you can buy prebent elbows and such to build your own, but you need a welder and know how to weld. Since you are on a budget, I would just either use the original manifolds or get some headers and modify your current exhaust to mate up to the headers.

[Tom]

$100 long tubes new? That has problems written all over it.

[MASTERBrian]

I looked back and the headman headers are $150-190. Those are the painted, which they say is only a temp coating. The stainless are about double

[GASoline71]

I have Hedman Street Hedders that came with the plain ol' paint. It burned off and after about a year or so, I yanked them out and wire wheeled them and painted them with high temp paint from Duplicolor. It was lasting great until I wrecked the truck. Now I am in the process of putting the truck back together and will wrap them with header wrap from DEI.

Gary

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I have Hedman Street Hedders that came with the plain ol' paint. It burned off and after about a year or so, I yanked them out and wire wheeled them and painted them with high temp paint from Duplicolor. It was lasting great until I wrecked the truck. Now I am in the process of putting the truck back together and will wrap them with header wrap from DEI.

Gary

On summit they say strip and repaint with high temp before installing. Wouldn't high temp rustoleum work. Stays pretty good on fireplace.

[GASoline71]

I see guys use high temp stove paint and it works good.

Gary

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I see guys use high temp stove paint and it works good.

Gary

I'd look for the 2000* stuff over the 1200*. We have a wood burning stove and the 2000 holds up much better. Overkill is a good thing.

[MASTERBrian]

So would these $188 headman headers be a decent buy or not? I don't care about the extra coating and such unless there is an excellent reason. The search says they'll fit 1960 C-10, should that be true, I'll be around 4" drop.

https://m.summitracing.com/search/pa...le/full-length

[Captainfab]

Yes those headers are designed to work in the '55-'72 trucks. Just strip the paint that is on them (I prefer sandblasting) and paint them with a couple coats of good quality high temp paint. I always use wood stove paint. Stove paint comes in several different colors too.

[MASTERBrian]

Sounds like a plan. I figured I'd use air craft stripper or possibly even some citrus stripper I have that took the paint off my block super easily and then spray them with metal prep to etch for the paint. Sand blasting is another option as well, but my blaster has seen better days. Might be time to buy a new unit.

[72freak]

$100 headers!!!! Yes! The gift that keeps on giving! Every oil change you can change header gaskets too! Unless you are building a high horse engine and spend your weekends at the track, put exhaust manifolds on it. I have a special place at my shop for headers.....on the scrap metal trailer!

[James the III]

The guys that are say'n they ran the pipe to the axle and dumped before the rear axle..
are driving a TRUCK..
your big by huge echo chamber 'burb will drone and you most likely won't like it.
I'd ask over on the 'burb end how many are running it like that and how loud inside it is..
Our 1996 burb has a ton more sound deadner and it was loud..
just an fyi before you do this..

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by James the III

The guys that are say'n they ran the pipe to the axle and dumped before the rear axle..
are driving a TRUCK..
your big by huge echo chamber 'burb will drone and you most likely won't like it.
I'd ask over on the 'burb end how many are running it like that and how loud inside it is..
Our 1996 burb has a ton more sound deadner and it was loud..
just an fyi before you do this..

Not planning on dumping before the rear axle. I figure I'll take m mine out the back or behind the axle. Part of the reason is I have double sliders and I want mine of that exhaust coming back in on my kids.

[Captainfab]

Keep in mind that what ever 'metal prep' you use could affect the adhesion of the high temp paint negatively if it leaves a residue.

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Keep in mind that what ever 'metal prep' you use could affect the adhesion of the high temp paint negatively if it leaves a residue.

I thought that was the point of the metal prep, kill any rust and etch the metal to aid in adhesion of paint. Do I need fyi read back up on this stuff? Or dots this really only hold true on high temp paints?

[MASTERBrian]

I looked those headers up on Amazon and the description says they won't work with torsion bars. I guess back to the drawing board. I guess I'll have to do some more searching....

[GASoline71]

You could always go with 3/4 length headers and run your exhaust up to them around your torsion bars.

Gary

[Captainfab]

Have you found a high temp metal prep? If not, I would be leary of using such a thing in a high heat application.

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

I thought that was the point of the metal prep, kill any rust and etch the metal to aid in adhesion of paint. Do I need fyi read back up on this stuff? Or dots this really only hold true on high temp paints?

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Have you found a high temp metal prep? If not, I would be leary of using such a thing in a high heat application.

Hmmm....I don't/didnt know the metal prep mattered in low vs high heat applications. What I'm talking about isn't a coating, it's more of an etcher. Gets rid of rust and etches the metal so it's ready for the coating. Would that make a difference?

Po15r products uses a cleaner/degreaser then a metal prep before applying their coatings. It's a similar product I'm talking about.

I'd basically strip the paint, use the prep the etch it, then prime and paint with high temp products.

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Hmmm....I don't/didnt know the metal prep mattered in low vs high heat applications. What I'm talking about isn't a coating, it's more of an etcher. Gets rid of rust and etches the metal so it's ready for the coating. Would that make a difference?

Po15r products uses a cleaner/degreaser then a metal prep before applying their coatings. It's a similar product I'm talking about.

I'd basically strip the paint, use the prep the etch it, then prime and paint with high temp products.

Etching should not leave a residue. If this is a concern, and you want a prep on the cheap, acid etch it, then spray it down with brake cleaner which by design leaves no residue. Also, if a high temp product calls for primer, use another high temp product. The high temp products that stick properly are designed to be applied directly to etched metal. They work the best. At least in my experience.

Believe it or not, I've had good success with Rustoleum flat black BBQ grill paint on manifolds and headers. As long as the metal is etched, and the paint is applied with a few light coats, it's affordable and holds up really well.

I also agree with everyone else. Run manifolds instead of cheap headers!

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by MASTERBrian

Not planning on dumping before the rear axle. I figure I'll take m mine out the back or behind the axle. Part of the reason is I have double sliders and I want mine of that exhaust coming back in on my kids.

Out the sides, behind the rear axle & tipped slightly down, is what I was taught on a wagon. Richard('Dickey") Proehl, lived for exhaust work, for 45yrs in the bizz.... & he was my mentor. The theory was on the back of a wagon (straight out), is that the exhaust would swirl up behind the rear (back window), & still suck the fumes in ? I loved the custom builds the most, but a lot of guys dont play that way anymore....the bread & butter pays the bills. ...Longhorn