Question on replacing front pillar and cab mount

[Aragard]

Hey,

I am currently doing some bodywork on my 72 K25.
I need to replace a lot of things, rocker, inner rocker, front pillar, rear pillar, front and rear cab mount and cab corner.

I know the list is long and i should get an other cab, but here in Quebec it is just too rare.


So here is my problem.

Nothing is welded for the moment. As you can see, i have a massive gap between the 2 pieces and the cab mount is not perpendiculary to the ground.

Am i missing something here ? The other side seems ok
Yes i braced the cab in ''x''.


Thank you for helping me !

[Ironangel]

Need your inner rocker in place...That's a good pic but need to see more, back the camera away and get a couple of angles...I like to use the panel that incorporates the edge of the floor pan with the inner rocker...Use small self drilling sheet metal screws for temporary holding and fit up, then remove the screws once everything is fit up correctly filling the screw holes with weld...Make sure that door fits before you weld...Number 6 at the bottom of this page incorporates the outer floor and inner rocker in one piece. Use it since your outer floor is missing, you wont need parts 11 or 13 if you use part number 6. The rocker panel will fit right against part number 6... http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=13 Your cab support will fit against the inside of 6 on the horizontal floor section as well as the vertical lip section of #6...Saves a lot of time and headache...Dont be afraid to use those screws because a small hole is cake to fill and they suck the metal tight together where clamps wont reach or fit...PS. Pay attention to that little note on cab supports, a lot of guys have beat their brains out trying to fit an OE support over the existing support or wonder why a slip on dont match the welds of the removed original support...Take your time, dont be afraid to make adjustments and by all means, make sure that door fits...Work one side at a time...

[GASoline71]

Still a lit of sheet metal to go between there. The inner rocker panel and the kick panel get sandwiched in between there.

Gary

[Aragard]

Thank for the answer guys.

If i understand, the kick panel and the inner rocker goes between the pillar and the cab support. And the fact it is not 90 degree is not a problem, since i can use metal screw right ?

I took more photos here they are. https://imgur.com/a/P3W6H ( Anyone know how to add pics, because they ask a url.. )

When i bought the truck it came with inner and outer rocker as you can see on that last picture. It was those one i wanted to use and just add a sheet metal to fill the gap between the rocker and the floor

It is hard for me to fit them, cause the other side is as bad as this one. So can't take measure.

[67c10rustbuket]

Step 1: I would fit the outer floor extension/inner rocker piece. The inner rocker in Your IMGUR album is junk. It Does not have any material behind the pillars or the proper contour. That is more of a patch for those who do not need total pillar replacement.

Step 2: fit and install the inner kick panel. As you can see it only covers the top two holes of the cab support therefore the tapered gap you have is necessary.

Step 3: fit and install the pillar. Once you get to this point the gap should be minimal.

Step 4: hang the door, remove striker plate for cab jamb.

Step 5: begin fitting the outer rocker.



You honestly have a huge job ahead of you. You could save a lot of time and frustration by purchasing a complete cab floor. I know from experience.

[GASoline71]

That outer cab floor extension that includes the inner rocker is by far one of the best patch panels to come from the aftermarket for these trucks.

I used them on both sides of my cab. Made life a helluva lot easier.

Gary

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

That outer cab floor extension that includes the inner rocker is by far one of the best patch panels to come from the aftermarket for these trucks.

I used them on both sides of my cab. Made life a helluva lot easier.

Gary

Have to agree. You can resell your existing inside rocker panels on the parts board to recover some payment. Not to rain on your parade but you are essentially replacing the whole floor of the cab. If you plan on keeping the truck then cobbling the floor together is no big deal. But if you plan on a resale of the truck it will lower the resale value a bit. It will also make the final fit up of the door very difficult and will make the final line up of the lower door look bad. I understand that availability and budget wont allow acquiring a cab in better shape but for someone taking on a first time body panel replacement job...I wish you were closer so I could come help because your patients and skills will tested.. On the bright side of this endeavor, you will be a qualified expert when that door fits and closes properly...So lets get on with it shall we, your in a heated shop and that's a BIG plus as well! After studying your pics you have most the panels necessary to do the job except three or four. Like myself and Gary suggested, you really should get a pair of those #6 panels. Your also going to need a pair of "kick panels"...If you look at the pics RustBucket posted, you can see he's used a panel #6. We suggest these panels because they have pre drilled holes for easy fit up, takes the guess work out of fit up. Your also going to need a part he has shown in his last pick, the lower rear pillar repair parts, not sure if you have those yet? Might be what I see in one of your pics. Take a close look at his pics and note the end of a cross bar he has tacked to hold the door opening...That opening is critical to your door fit up! It would be worth your time and effort to find a similar year truck for measurement and match that opening! Your X brace is good but needs to be boxed in to hold. A 1/4" too narrow or too big will kill a door fit up! Take that from one who learned the hard way...Using the search option and build pics from other members will help immensely in the order of assembly. The rolled and bent edges on the panels are necessary for fit up and in final assembly for things like the weather stripping..."Let the games begin!" If you have a vendor in Canada that sells "Tri-Plus" panels, go for those...If memory serves correct, https://www.classicparts.com/Patch-P...oducts/316/5/0 sells the Tri-Plus panels...For considerably less than LMC. I use LMC for their graphics and ease of description...Those number 6 panels can be had from Classic parts of America for like $30 cheaper than LMC and they are Tri-Plus panels. Tri-Plus is if not the best, one of the best panels out there...I state that from experience as well...Good luck!

[Aragard]

Hey.

As i read you guy's i see that i really need this #6 piece. I ordered it from classicparts. I didn't knew they would ship to Canada. For the moment, i ordered parts from Bills truck Shop and Rockauto. Rockauto is really hard to beat but dont have specific pieces that i will need.

I also ordered kick panel. I think i will have everything i need now.

Ironangel,
Do you talk about part #9 from http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=13
If yes, i have it.

I'll post some update when i'll get the parts and try to fit them.

Thank you alot guys !

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Aragard

Hey.

As i read you guy's i see that i really need this #6 piece. I ordered it from classicparts. I didn't knew they would ship to Canada. For the moment, i ordered parts from Bills truck Shop and Rockauto. Rockauto is really hard to beat but dont have specific pieces that i will need.

Ironangel,
Do you talk about part #9 from http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=13
If yes, i have it.

I'll post some update when i'll get the parts and try to fit them.

Thank you alot guys !

Yes that was the one...Cool, your money ahead of the game! Try to lap your joints where ever possible, makes the welding so much easier... Looks like your getting a handle on it! Cool I'd leave the right side be for the time being, there seems to be enough intact sheet metal to get your opening measurements...Also, I know this wont work for the left side but when you go too make your cut for the cab corner. I cut the existing cab metal right along that ridge line. I then leave the new cab corner panel an inch long, above that ridge line forming a lap joint with a weld line right along that ridge. The reason for this method is a weld bead can be sanded to become the new radius or corner along that horizontal ridge line. No filler necessary if done correctly...Heres a link with some pics that may help... https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=3e8846e752

[Aragard]

Thanks for the pics and the tip.

Ill definitly try it on the other side.

Ill post more info when ill get back to it.

[Aragard]

Little update

Classicparts have a broking fee because it has to pass the border. For the 2 parts there was an extra 90 CAD...

Finally i ordered from Bills shop truck. The parts are Triplus too.


Waiting for them, i started to replace the inner bottom and door skin.

[elkniks]

Hey, could be worse. Blazers cover all that up with a giant steel box!

[Aragard]

Hey,

Sorry for the long delay

I finished the passenger door and started on the left side of the cab.

I need some information.
I installed the rear floor panel with the rear cab support. For the moment it is just tack, but all the holes on the floor lines up with the original one. I lapped it with the original floor.
https://imgur.com/a/dL90R

I am now going for the floor rocker extension.
My questions are
Should i lap it with the floor rocker extension ?
How to fit it ? With the door ?
When i am placing the outer rocker, it doesnt seem to fit right on it. Am i missing a piece between those 2 ?

Thank you

[Aragard]

Anyone ?