Edelbrock carb hard starting

[davbowen]

I doubt its the fuel pump. they been around for years and typically they work or they don't. part of the problem with boiling is the aluminum parts retain the heat. it needs to be isolated. the isolator gasket is not thick enough. you need a 1/2" to 1" spacer between the carb and intake in your case intake and adaptor. I prefer plastic but wood will work to. square bore spacer are much easier to find. your local autozone should carry it. don't forget you'll need longer carb studs. your heat gasket is a squarebore and if you still use it, goes between intake and adaptor. just my thoughts....

[The Rocknrod]

Well if the adapter doesn't fit on top it should fit below the adapter.
I am planning to run a Carter M4685 (5.5 - 6PSI) mechanical pump.
Carter site says our trucks 283 will run their M4712 which is the same PSI.
I will be running an insulated spacer also when the time comes.

[chevylookin]

I will double or triple confirm 66Submarine. The Edelbrock carbs like the common 1406 found typically on your Chev 350's will hate a fuel pressure above 6.5 MAX! You need to get that pressure down to like 4.5 or 5 at the most. You will find if you are not running a fuel pressure regulator that after turning the engine off, you can actually smell gas around your engine. (like 5-10 minutes after you turn it off). The fuel will actually seep past the needles and temporarily flood your carb. No big deal if its your last drive at the end of the day and the next morning you go out and start it cold, it fires right up. But if your going to 7-11 or the grocery store to pick up dog food or beer, 20 mins later, the engine is grinding and dying to get started cuz its got too much stinky stuff and not enough breathing stuff. Was an issue on my Blazer for years and I destroyed many a starter and fouled many a plug before I finally put the regulator on. Search for fuel pressure regulator install. Im not sure if there any threads on it. I will look soon.

[The Rocknrod]

I have built cars/trucks since 1979, not long to some people. Ferds, Chevy etc. I just have never had this issue. Is it a C10 specific thing?
I will say I always use thermal spacers under carbs and such. I have had trucks with 327's that I used for daily drivers in Las Vegas Nevada when I was a Navy recruiter (it dont get hot there). Never lost an hour work.
The other thing that's been on mind as of late is, this sugar they make fuel out of. Could this be a contributing issue? I see carbs torn apart and the bowls are full of do-do, just asking.

[cadillac_al]

It would be nice to know the actual fuel pressure that you have now. My K10 came with an Edlebrock carb and I planned to change that out right away. Well, 5 years later it is still working fine and is still on there. I rebuilt the stock Qjet for it 2 years ago but haven't used it because if it ain't broke I hate to touch it.

I can hear and see the fuel boil in my Eddy carb and my clear fuel filter. When I had a weak fuel pump it was hard to start hot and I knew the float bowl was probably empty. Once I finally verified my 1 lb of fuel pressure I got the fuel pump corrected. Now when the fuel boils out of my carb I know it will take a couple seconds for the new fuel pump to get some fuel in there but that's all it takes. If I am on the highway and just stop for gas it starts right up. It's that 10-20 minute stop that will boil the gas out and take a few more cranks. I'm sure the insulated gaskets will help a lot. I just haven't got around to that yet.

I have bought 3 or 4 Carquest fuel pumps in the last few years and they all put out 4-5 psi. I can't say they are the greatest because I don't seem to get more than 5 years out of them but they are lifetime warranty so they just give me a new one when they fail. Bottom line: fuel pressure should be verified.

[Shtudwn]

Wow! You all are amazing. Thank you.

I had some misinformation in my post on Part numbers and spread-bore to square-bore. Here is the revised portion:

I have a 350 SB out of a 1971 El Camino. It is stock with a OEM HEI Distributor. I have an older Edelbrock Performer Intake which I believe is a 2101 4-bbl Spread-Bore Carb Flange (non-EGR). On top of that is an Edelbrock 2696 Four-Hole Square-Bore to Spread-Bore Carburetor Adapter and then my Manual choke with 4-barrel square-bore carburetor flange 1405.

It sounds like I need a spacer that is designed for spread-bore since it will go between the adapter (under the carb) and the intake which is spread-bore 2101.

As for fuel pressure, should I buy the gear to install a pressure gauge? I can do it but have never had to in the past...but then again this is my first Edelbrock and to be honest I am asking myself why I bought it...but oh well.

Thank you all again. I really appreciate your advice/suggestions.

Dan

[SSpeed66]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I have built cars/trucks since 1979, not long to some people. Ferds, Chevy etc. I just have never had this issue. Is it a C10 specific thing?
I will say I always use thermal spacers under carbs and such. I have had trucks with 327's that I used for daily drivers in Las Vegas Nevada when I was a Navy recruiter (it dont get hot there). Never lost an hour work.
The other thing that's been on mind as of late is, this sugar they make fuel out of. Could this be a contributing issue? I see carbs torn apart and the bowls are full of do-do, just asking.

Ethanol in Gasoline has lowered the boiling temp these days

[Dead Parrot]

This type spacer goes above your adapter plate:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8723/overview/

There are several variations on the theme.

If you haven't done it already, check the float levels in your carb. As shipped from the factory, they are often wrong and can lead to flooding or a lean condition. Order a top carb gasket when you order a spacer in case you damage the one on the carb when you open it up.

Before ordering, might research some of the tuning threads and if needed, pickup some jets and rods that more closely match your desired application. Rod and springs can be changed without lifting the top. Changing the jets requires lifting the top.

[53chevyforever]

Originally Posted by davbowen

I doubt its the fuel pump. they been around for years and typically they work or they don't. part of the problem with boiling is the aluminum parts retain the heat. it needs to be isolated. the isolator gasket is not thick enough. you need a 1/2" to 1" spacer between the carb and intake in your case intake and adaptor. I prefer plastic but wood will work to. square bore spacer are much easier to find. your local autozone should carry it. don't forget you'll need longer carb studs. your heat gasket is a squarebore and if you still use it, goes between intake and adaptor. just my thoughts....

Don't doubt it's the fuel pump. I have a new one laying in my shop floor right now and it has 11 pounds at idle. My poor old 1406 eddy ran like crap with it.
Changed it to one with 5.5 pounds and it helped some. Two of my friends had the same problem with new mechanical pumps. I am 70 years old and replacement parts just are not like it used to be. However...about the hard starting....when hot eddys just don't start well after sitting...turn it off and start immediately it's fine. The spacers help some but don't cure it completely. Here in Texas it gets hot...real hot..I finally have switched over
to Holley and guess what...starts right up when hot...also you don't have
to pull the top of the carb off if you get trash under the needle and seats.
I just drove my 58 apache on a 2,000 mile trip and got almost 17 mpg
This is with a 600 cfm holley and 350 crate engine and 700r4 running ac at 70 mph. It is also easy to change the power valve on a holley it you are
running a large cam...I have a 1406 I will sell cheap right now if someone
wants it....